Inexpensive Power Mod?
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Inexpensive Power Mod?
I'm the proud owner of a new 2002 Dodge Ram w/Cummings Diesel (Beauty) that is going to be used intermittently pulling a 8,000 lb SunnyBrook fifth wheel trailer. This is my first experience with a diesel power plant and, so far, WOW!!<br><br>There's just one problem with the rig. I constantly dream of power upgrades. Upon waking and getting that first cup of coffee it seems as though I can smell a faint hint of diesel fuel circling around the room. As I shower, through the stream of water I can hear a low distinctive rattle of a Cummings. As I shave the whirrrring of my electric razor becomes turbo like. I'm afraid the rest of the day is much the same. What the hell have I done? Does this ever go away? What am I destined to become? ???<br><br>Let me let you in on a secret ... I have somewhat of a colorful<br>imagination. But, in all actuality the above is not too far from the truth.<br><br>Get to the point already.<br><br>OK, I would like to tweak the HP and Torque about 20% to 25% if possible .... what are my best options for under $800 or $1,000?<br><br>I've looked over Gale Banks' systems but do not want to spend that kind of money and also I don't want to entertain any upgrades that could potentially have issues with warranty service.<br><br>Finally, my question - Can this be done with intake and exhaust upgrades that will not create any warranty service issues?<br><br>I'm thinking possibly of a K&N, Scotty II or other after market high-flow intake, and a complete Flow Master exhaust system. Is it worth it? There is sooo many opinions on this site, I just had to ask. Any recommendations are welcome as well.<br><br>Lastly, will the my upgrades put out this fire storm of "Gear Head" activity or just fuel it? <br><br>Richard Shelton
#2
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Re:Inexpensive Power Mod?
I would say go with a good Stage 2 or 3 injector, and a timming box like the VA or Edge EZ. If you add that much power you would have to upgrade the turbo as well. <br><br>If your really serious about spending that little a money, I would go with a stage 2 injector, and a Piers HX35. <br><br>The possiblities are endless,<br>Andrew
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Re:Inexpensive Power Mod?
First thing to do is get yourself a good set of gauges. These will tell you alot, especially after you start adding power. Then get a Comp or a TST Powermaxx3 and a Scotty2 ;D
#4
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Re:Inexpensive Power Mod?
1. FIRST and foremost, realize and accept that ANY significant mods WILL most likely void your warranty!<br><br>2. Once THAT is understood, guages are a MUST to monitor what's going on with that dandy Cummins.<br><br>3. Install some sort of remedy for the infamous lift pump/VP44 potential premature failures - the most common being addition of a "pusher pump" down by the fuel tank to reduce strain on the stock LP, and the failure that frequently occurs whnen the LP fails and takes the VP44 with it.<br><br>4. Consider a power adder in the form of a "magic box" - I use the Edge Comp - and picked up over 80 HP and 210 ft lbs of torque at the rear wheels with NO other add-ons or expense.<br><br>My EGT stays 1200 degrees or less no matter WHAT grade or load I pull, boost is about 32 psi max, and my fuel pressure stays well above stock values for maximum LP and VP44 protection - total outlay was well under $750...<br><br>Good luck.
#5
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Re:Inexpensive Power Mod?
RS88: You're still thinking in terms of gassers. Intake and exhaust are factors, but the CTD has a bit different spin on upgrades. So --
(1) Get pyro, boost, and fuel pressure gauges before you do *anything* else. Seriously. Nobody who knows anything will disagree with me on this one. Figure on spending $250 or more for good gauges, but it's worth it. (The fuel pressure gauge is there to monitor the health of your lift pump and expensive VP44 pump.)
(2) Get the BHAF ($50) if you're poor or do a lot of driving in desert talcum powder. Get the Scotty II ($200) if you can afford it.
(3) Lose the stock muffler. Replace it with a straight through or a four inch muffler/back system, or dump the muffler altogether. Could be $0 to $250.
(4) Get the Edge Comp & don't hook up the pump wire (yet). I've seen them for less than $600. If you do hook up the pump wire, you've trashed your warranty, and you'll need to go to #6 below.
You're now at $1000 or a little over. If you want to go further:
(5) Get performance injectors -- RV275's are cheap, excellent, and you may be able to avoid doing transmission modifications. If you want to go further, try DD2's but see #6 below. $275 to $500 or more.
(6) Depending on what sort of transmission you've got, at this point you'll have to do some work on it -- an SBC clutch for the manual, or aftermarket upgrades for the slushbox. A thousand bucks.
(7) A four inch exhaust would be OK here, since at this point, money obviously doesn't matter.
(8) A Piers HX35 or HX40 turbo, depending on where you whether you want to tow or smoke. Another thousand plus bucks.
(9) Might as well hook up the pump wire on your Edge Comp. It's free now, and your warranty has been already been trashed.
(10) Bigger injectors, O-rings, porting, nitro, radical exhaust systems, all kinds of expensive exotics.
My advice? Go with 1-4 if you've got an automatic transmission. Go with 1-5, spending an extra $275 for the RV275's, if you've got the NV-5600 (6 speed). You can do these, and still have a *chance* of retaining your warranty, if you're responsible and you can find the right dealer.
GP
(1) Get pyro, boost, and fuel pressure gauges before you do *anything* else. Seriously. Nobody who knows anything will disagree with me on this one. Figure on spending $250 or more for good gauges, but it's worth it. (The fuel pressure gauge is there to monitor the health of your lift pump and expensive VP44 pump.)
(2) Get the BHAF ($50) if you're poor or do a lot of driving in desert talcum powder. Get the Scotty II ($200) if you can afford it.
(3) Lose the stock muffler. Replace it with a straight through or a four inch muffler/back system, or dump the muffler altogether. Could be $0 to $250.
(4) Get the Edge Comp & don't hook up the pump wire (yet). I've seen them for less than $600. If you do hook up the pump wire, you've trashed your warranty, and you'll need to go to #6 below.
You're now at $1000 or a little over. If you want to go further:
(5) Get performance injectors -- RV275's are cheap, excellent, and you may be able to avoid doing transmission modifications. If you want to go further, try DD2's but see #6 below. $275 to $500 or more.
(6) Depending on what sort of transmission you've got, at this point you'll have to do some work on it -- an SBC clutch for the manual, or aftermarket upgrades for the slushbox. A thousand bucks.
(7) A four inch exhaust would be OK here, since at this point, money obviously doesn't matter.
(8) A Piers HX35 or HX40 turbo, depending on where you whether you want to tow or smoke. Another thousand plus bucks.
(9) Might as well hook up the pump wire on your Edge Comp. It's free now, and your warranty has been already been trashed.
(10) Bigger injectors, O-rings, porting, nitro, radical exhaust systems, all kinds of expensive exotics.
My advice? Go with 1-4 if you've got an automatic transmission. Go with 1-5, spending an extra $275 for the RV275's, if you've got the NV-5600 (6 speed). You can do these, and still have a *chance* of retaining your warranty, if you're responsible and you can find the right dealer.
GP
#7
Top's Younger Twin
Re:Inexpensive Power Mod?
[quote author=midwestdually link=board=4;threadid=7418;start=0#71380 date=1038027802]<br>first and foremost..learn that it is a Cummins diesel and not a Cummings ;D<br>[/quote]<br><br> <br><br>
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#8
Registered User
Re:Inexpensive Power Mod?
Wouldn't be easier to run around the country with some white paint and add a G to all the signs at the dealers?????? Sorry lost my head next we would have to go around and re-label all EMS units with Ambliance and so on,and so on !!!!! Welcome to CUMMINS POWER, Some Power Strokes??, A couple of Suzzies and the odd Clatterpillar. Power is no object seeing as $$$$Money= HP= Diesel POWER. Enjoy PK
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