Hydraulic Slave Cylinder Failures
#1
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Hydraulic Slave Cylinder Failures
Hey Guys,
I have just started having trouble with the slave cylinder on my 6 speed, after only 60K. Dealer says they are starting to show up more frequently and in our small town of Pop.4000, about 3-4 a month. $700 for P&L. Was told that Dodge is publishing a TSB, but no recalls yet. Also not covered under drivetrain warranty. Supposedly, replacement is an upgraded version of the same.
Input if you have it.
Them's the breaks (or clutch)
I have just started having trouble with the slave cylinder on my 6 speed, after only 60K. Dealer says they are starting to show up more frequently and in our small town of Pop.4000, about 3-4 a month. $700 for P&L. Was told that Dodge is publishing a TSB, but no recalls yet. Also not covered under drivetrain warranty. Supposedly, replacement is an upgraded version of the same.
Input if you have it.
Them's the breaks (or clutch)
#3
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Homestead,
I'm willing to jump in a do it my self, but I'd like a reference to read up on so I don't get over my head. One mans simple is another mans nightmare.
I'm willing to jump in a do it my self, but I'd like a reference to read up on so I don't get over my head. One mans simple is another mans nightmare.
#4
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Understood my friend.
Simple as pie.....
2 nuts hold the slave on, Pop the bolster under the steering column off, 2 nuts under the dash hold the master cylinder on, 1 clip on the pedal under the dash, 1 wiring plug under dash to disconnect. Fish it all out from under the hood. It is a bit of a pain to fish it all out in 1 piece. I just cut the line in a couple of places to make it easier. Wasn't planning on keeping the old anyways.
It's actually easier to put it back in than take it out because the replacement is 2 pieces. Don't cut the plastic retainer on the slave, it will break when you use the clutch for the first time. Fish the 2 pieces back into place, secure the retaining nuts, plug the 2 hydraulic lines together with a click, install the clip on the pedal, plug the wiring back in, bolster on.
Push in the clutch to break the retainer and make sure it all works. Done.
Honestly it's a simple as pie. I never did it before until I had to do my own. Did it parked out on the street.
You won't have any problems, it's pretty much self explanatory!
Hope it helps.
Simple as pie.....
2 nuts hold the slave on, Pop the bolster under the steering column off, 2 nuts under the dash hold the master cylinder on, 1 clip on the pedal under the dash, 1 wiring plug under dash to disconnect. Fish it all out from under the hood. It is a bit of a pain to fish it all out in 1 piece. I just cut the line in a couple of places to make it easier. Wasn't planning on keeping the old anyways.
It's actually easier to put it back in than take it out because the replacement is 2 pieces. Don't cut the plastic retainer on the slave, it will break when you use the clutch for the first time. Fish the 2 pieces back into place, secure the retaining nuts, plug the 2 hydraulic lines together with a click, install the clip on the pedal, plug the wiring back in, bolster on.
Push in the clutch to break the retainer and make sure it all works. Done.
Honestly it's a simple as pie. I never did it before until I had to do my own. Did it parked out on the street.
You won't have any problems, it's pretty much self explanatory!
Hope it helps.
#6
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Off Topic but same rant!
Kinda Like why isn't the thermostat covered on the engine warranty?
Not a big deal to change (Thermostat / clutch hydr.) but it should be covered!
Kinda Like why isn't the thermostat covered on the engine warranty?
Not a big deal to change (Thermostat / clutch hydr.) but it should be covered!
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#9
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I have a aftermarket H-D twin disc ceramic clutch w/ a 3200lb cover (holding pressure, My clutch slave has gone out 3 times in 40k miles , I am tring to fab up a aftermarket one to be H-D , and take some punishment . I keep you posted
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