Stamey

Pull one of those plugs, preferrably the one closer to the center of the housing (post filter) and turn the key on. If fuel does not squirt out of there, you have a bad lift pump!!!!! Replace immediately!!!

Chris

Geico266

My new pump is ordered and on the way just to be safe. So are gauges. THANKS!

Is it possible for a diesel to run without a lift pump working? I knows its a bad idea, but I'm wondering how my truck is still running? She runs better than ever.

Stamey

You getting a FASS? I just installed mine and the pressure NEVER drops. My 15psi gauge is too small now. I should have a 20-25 psi gaue on there because's its' pegging the one I have now.
I figure with the FASS, the bleeding precedure will be change the filter and bump the engine ONCE. Man this thing flows some fuel!

Chris

pcabe5

Geico266, I've seen this before as well on a truck including mine. If the pump doesn't have fuel in the filter or in itself its hard to prime as it's trying to compress air.

Once the pump got fuel, it used the fuel to push the air out but up until then they can get air locked and it not the pump being bad. Mine ran 16 psi idle before and after it just needed an open line to get the initial burst of fuel/prime. A Cummins tech had told me that they can sometimes have a hard time getting an initial prime if they get air locked.

My fuel pressure gauge hose has a bleeder valve on it, so now when I change filters I hook up a hose to my bleeder valve, stick it in a container, tap the starter and open the valve till fuel comes out.

Stamey

pcab4,
Interesting. I have never put a drop of fuel in my filter housing before installation. I just bumped the engine a couple of times, as is mentioned earlier, and was good to go. Never had to break a line loose. The stock pump shouldn't be dry since the filter is after the pump, and the pump should not bleed back to the tank. The air should be getting pumped through the return line on the VP44, so bumping the engine should take care of all the air.

Chris

TXRAM2

I have changed out numerous filters, drained canisters and wiped clean, replaced banjos and drained for gauge installs, and never had a prob getting primed. One trick is to take a 24" a/c charge line, screw it onto the shrader at the vp44 and do the 3 bump trick, let the lift pump run until you get good flow , remove charge line and lite her up.

my .02
wayne

pcabe5

TXRAM,

That's exactly what I do, as my gauge hose screws onto the schrader valve only it has a push button bleed valve just before the sending unit. Never have to remove it and it's always there.

DaNuGuy

Let's resurect this thread for a moment, shall we?

I do a bunch of work on Bobcat skid loaders and they have a bleeder screw on the filter housing and one up higher on the pump. Would it be a bad idea to put one on the Dodge fuel filter housing or not? If the lp is supposed to flow 1.9l or whatever in a single cycle, then if the air is allowed an easy way to escape the fuel filter should prime in one cycle.

BTW, where does the air go in a closed system?

Steve.

Stamey

The air goes through the injector pump and out the return line. Many people have said they just fill up the filter housing and don't bleed a thing, just cycling the key and firing it up.
Many of the housings, pre-2000, have a plug in them that can be removed for bleeding. Mine had the fuel pressure gauge in it until I went with the FASS.
I don't know about the 2000 and up housings.

Chris

DaNuGuy

Yeah, I was thinking of putting a bleeder in the "out" port on the filter housing. 98, BTW.

What the heck do I have to lose? If it don't work out, I'll put the plug back in. If it makes it easier, yay me!!!