High Idle flash - again......
#16
Quote from TSB:
NOTE: ONCE THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN REPROGRAMMED TO THE PROPER SOFTWARE LEVEL, YOU MUST USE THE DRB III TO ENABLE THE 3 CYLINDER IDLE FEATURE. TO DO SO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW.
That says that must use the DRB to enable the 3 cyl. idle feature.... not to enable the idle speed increase.
NOTE: ONCE THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN REPROGRAMMED TO THE PROPER SOFTWARE LEVEL, YOU MUST USE THE DRB III TO ENABLE THE 3 CYLINDER IDLE FEATURE. TO DO SO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW.
That says that must use the DRB to enable the 3 cyl. idle feature.... not to enable the idle speed increase.
#17
Maybe there is an answer here from TDR post:
"My dealer flashed 18-014-01 to compensate for the fuel up here and it also enables high idle. I have had zero problems with this flash and no performance/mpg difference. The high idle works like a charm. After sitting out in the cold for 12 hours at work in the winter this seems to help warm her up a little quicker. No complaints, may just have to find another dealer. Maybe someone local could PM you with a recommendation for a dealer. Good luck."
Maybe this TSB will enable high idle without 3 cylinder. TSB 18-019-01 requires enabling 3 cylinder to turn on high idle.
You should have labels on the radiator that indicate TSB installed. SNOKING
"My dealer flashed 18-014-01 to compensate for the fuel up here and it also enables high idle. I have had zero problems with this flash and no performance/mpg difference. The high idle works like a charm. After sitting out in the cold for 12 hours at work in the winter this seems to help warm her up a little quicker. No complaints, may just have to find another dealer. Maybe someone local could PM you with a recommendation for a dealer. Good luck."
Maybe this TSB will enable high idle without 3 cylinder. TSB 18-019-01 requires enabling 3 cylinder to turn on high idle.
You should have labels on the radiator that indicate TSB installed. SNOKING
#18
18-014-01 is applicable to automatic trans 24-valvers -
Date: July 9, 2001
Models: 1998 1/2-2002 BR/BE Ram Trucks
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO ALL RAM TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH A 5.9L 24-VALVE CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE WITH A 49-STATE EMISSIONS CALIBRATION AND AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.
Discussion:
This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with new software (59t7a)
Symptom/Condition:
"Customer may experience hard starting and/or idle speed fluctuations.
Cummins 24-valve engines used with automatic transmissions can be severely effected by the use of sub-grade #1 diesel fuel when ambient temperatures are below 0°C (32°F), typically prevalent during the Winter months in Alaska, Northwestern Canada, and similar climates/temperatures elsewhere.
NOTE: THIS CHANGE WILL HAVE NO EFFECT ON PERFORMANCE DURING WARM WEATHER OR WHEN STANDARD GRADE DIESEL FUELS #1 OR #2 ARE USED.
NOTE: VEHICLES WITH 49-STATE CERTIFICATION CAN APPLY THIS CALIBRATION CHANGE IF NEEDED. THE CALIBRATION CAN BE CHANGED BACK TO THE ORIGINAL CALIBRATION IF DESIRED. ...."
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/18-014-01.htm see here for more info
Justin
Date: July 9, 2001
Models: 1998 1/2-2002 BR/BE Ram Trucks
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO ALL RAM TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH A 5.9L 24-VALVE CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE WITH A 49-STATE EMISSIONS CALIBRATION AND AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.
Discussion:
This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with new software (59t7a)
Symptom/Condition:
"Customer may experience hard starting and/or idle speed fluctuations.
Cummins 24-valve engines used with automatic transmissions can be severely effected by the use of sub-grade #1 diesel fuel when ambient temperatures are below 0°C (32°F), typically prevalent during the Winter months in Alaska, Northwestern Canada, and similar climates/temperatures elsewhere.
NOTE: THIS CHANGE WILL HAVE NO EFFECT ON PERFORMANCE DURING WARM WEATHER OR WHEN STANDARD GRADE DIESEL FUELS #1 OR #2 ARE USED.
NOTE: VEHICLES WITH 49-STATE CERTIFICATION CAN APPLY THIS CALIBRATION CHANGE IF NEEDED. THE CALIBRATION CAN BE CHANGED BACK TO THE ORIGINAL CALIBRATION IF DESIRED. ...."
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/18-014-01.htm see here for more info
Justin
#19
Called up my dealer and told him what was happening and set up a quick afterwork look-see. I showed up about 4, the mechanics leave at 5, and they were pretty busy. Given their work load and available time, we decided to eliminate the possibility that the 3-cyl shut-off was hanging things up by just hooking up the DRBIII tool and enabling the 3-cyl feature. A quick 5 minutes later and I was out the door on my way home. We're suppose to get to -2*F tonight so I'll leave her off the plug again and see what happens in the morning........ follow-up report will be posted tomorrow.
#22
Follow up
Got up this morning to a balmy 0*F. Truck was shut off last night at 8pm and sat in the driveway overnight - no block heater. Went out this morning at 7am to fire it up. Turned on the key, shifted to neutral, set parking brake, and cycled the grids twice. She turned over, coughed, fired about 3 times and died. Hit the key again with the same result. Cycled the grids one more time and she woke up very cranky... spewing whiteish, fuel laden smoke everywhere. After about a minute, the idle began to climb from about 825 rpm up to about 1150 rpm. With a satified grin on my face, I turned on the heater and went back inside.
About 10 minutes later, I went back outside to head out for work. Even though it was plenty cold enough, the 3 cylinder feature never activated. When I got in, the temp gauge was still on the bottom peg, but the cab was considerably warmer, the power steering pump was no longer howling and there was just the faintest whisp of white smoke from the tailpipe. A tap of the brake pedal and she returned to her normal 825 rpm idle speed. Dropped it in gear and took off down the street.
About 1/2 a block away from the house, the temp gauge started to climb off the bottom peg (it usually takes several miles down the interstate for this to happen) and the cab started to really warm up. I don't know why the 3 cylinder thing didn't kick in, but I'm quite happy that the idle speed increase is working now.
Ammo, I don't know all the circumstances around your truck, but it looks like Snoking was right on this one. Once the 3 cylinder feature was enabled, the idle speed increase worked (even though the 3 cylinder thing didn't).
About 10 minutes later, I went back outside to head out for work. Even though it was plenty cold enough, the 3 cylinder feature never activated. When I got in, the temp gauge was still on the bottom peg, but the cab was considerably warmer, the power steering pump was no longer howling and there was just the faintest whisp of white smoke from the tailpipe. A tap of the brake pedal and she returned to her normal 825 rpm idle speed. Dropped it in gear and took off down the street.
About 1/2 a block away from the house, the temp gauge started to climb off the bottom peg (it usually takes several miles down the interstate for this to happen) and the cab started to really warm up. I don't know why the 3 cylinder thing didn't kick in, but I'm quite happy that the idle speed increase is working now.
Ammo, I don't know all the circumstances around your truck, but it looks like Snoking was right on this one. Once the 3 cylinder feature was enabled, the idle speed increase worked (even though the 3 cylinder thing didn't).
#23
Well, I'm glad you got it working finally - I have no idea why mine would be different, my curiosity is really buggin' me now. It would be interesting to know if there are/were any different computer programs available for CTD's that are going to cold climates. (mine came out of Alaska) I haven't heard of any, but I can't explain why mine worked before the 3 cyl was enabled.
SNOKING you were right, my apologies.
Justin
SNOKING you were right, my apologies.
Justin
#24
Like I said maybe the other TSB for #1 fuel/with high idle, works without the 3 cylinder option. All the experence on the TDR says that turning on 3 cylinder correctly is what makes this TSB work.
I had the reflash for a 1 and a half and no high idle. Went back and had them "play" again with DBRII and 3 cylinder feature and mine is working. HAS to be really cold for 3 cylinder. And mine will come back on again after driving across the street to fuel snowmobiles. However once truck is warmed up and I park all day in the mountains, can not even get high idle.
DC put this in to protect the pushrods and valves in expreme conditions, not to warm the cab. I still am going to put a solenoid on the TPS bell crank and mount a switch in the cab and plan on getting power from parking brake switch. SNOKING
I had the reflash for a 1 and a half and no high idle. Went back and had them "play" again with DBRII and 3 cylinder feature and mine is working. HAS to be really cold for 3 cylinder. And mine will come back on again after driving across the street to fuel snowmobiles. However once truck is warmed up and I park all day in the mountains, can not even get high idle.
DC put this in to protect the pushrods and valves in expreme conditions, not to warm the cab. I still am going to put a solenoid on the TPS bell crank and mount a switch in the cab and plan on getting power from parking brake switch. SNOKING
#25
I guess REALLY COLD is a realative thing... I consider 0*F to be really cold, but for some of you, I'm sure it's downright balmy. But I guess it's not cold enough to trigger the 3 cylinder (although 0* is below the 15*F threshhold called out in the TSB).
After watching my temp gauge the few days in these temps, I'm pretty sure I can greatly help out my "heat-up times" with some winter fronts. Since I can't find any locally and don't want to wait on an order, I will probably be crafting some this weekend.
After watching my temp gauge the few days in these temps, I'm pretty sure I can greatly help out my "heat-up times" with some winter fronts. Since I can't find any locally and don't want to wait on an order, I will probably be crafting some this weekend.
#27
I was planning on making my own grill inserts. As I understand it, the grill inserts are far enough away from the fan blades for air to be pulled in from the sides, etc. and alieviate the concentrated flexing stresses that can develope when you just put something between the intercooler and radiator. Yes? No?