ftltmp

I have heard a way to make a high idle but have not had a chance to try it yet. On some models the pto was optional ,and under the hood up next to the firewall in a bundle of wire is an orange wire with a tag thats marked "pto". The way I understand it is to run a 12v supply to it through a toggle switch(do not ground) this in turn will run your rpm's up to about 950, but you can have a service tech can run them up more. Has any one tried this or have any addvice? thanks

Shovelhead

That's been around for several threads.

Check here for the real deal.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=PTO%2A+wire

Holycack

You can have your local friendly dealership activate a winter mode on your PCM which will raise the idle to 1150 and when its really cold it will cut out 3 cylinders. I have this done and it works well. Mind you today its -40 outside.

Shovelhead

Or just cut a wooden dowel rod to the correct length when propped between the seat frame and throttle pedal to give you about 1200 rpm..

No Hoss I'm not gonna post that picture again......

premo 1

I have a question on this deal with not letting them idle for extended periods.
I am new to diesels and am quite impressed with everything about my dodge-cummins combo.

My question is how do you get it to defog the windows, and to help clearing the ice off windows.
We had a winter storm, ice,freezing rain, sleet and as luck would have it, I cleared out the garage and the beast fit in there.
What do you do if you were out and this would happem.
Could you put something like a pipe,et. to idle it up or the high idle patch?
Does this make it ok to idle to warm up and aid in getting fog of inside windows, and ice etc. on outside windows?
I know its a lot of questions But Help me out, this has me concerned!!!

Mechanos

My truck sat outside last night and I was not able to plug it in. When I went out this morning, the whole truck was encapsulated in ice. Once I got the door open, I fired it up and turned the defroster on high. It didn't take very long before you could see water running under the ice layer on the windsheild. A little ice scraper action and the windshield was clear. The side windows took a little more work, but they cleared pretty easy as well. All in all, I spent about 15-20 minutes on it.

While the temperature gauge never moved off the bottom peg (140*), the air coming from the heater/defroster was warmer than 32* and loosened the ice on the windows. Now if you can plug in the block heater for several hours before you need the truck, the water will be quite warm as soon as start the truck. Just flip on the defroster and let it loosen the ice. Sometimes, if you have the selector in the defroster postion, the convective heat from the block heater will melt the ice/snow about halfway up the windshield.

The high idle patch is more a cure for SVS than it is an aid to warm up the cab quicker. I need to take my truck into the dealer to have them re-flash the computer to enable the high idle feature, but I'm still not sure I like the idea of turning off 3 of the cylinders so I will leave that feature disabled for now.

Shovelhead

Premo 1,
The trick is to not let it run at idle speed for a long period of time when the temps are below freezing.
Use whatever means available (High Idle program in the ECM, Aftermarket High Idle "Box", or a simple stick cut to the proper length) to get the idle speed up to around 1,200-1,300 RPM to ensure proper engine temps to provide complete combustion of the fuel injected into the cylinders.

dakar

Think the TSB about the "cother weather high idle" (or something like that) specifically addressed the buildup of crud on the valve stems by using this mode when cutting off 3 cyl's and raising the rpm's helps reduce the buildup for extended idling periods. Not to mention it helps in getting heat to the cab quicker too!

KATOOM

If you have an exhaust brake you can just turn it on at idle and the EGT's will go up to about 400*/ 450*. Will warm up much faster and its OK to idle for longer periods of time this way since cylinder temps are higher for better combustion.

Mechanos

Took my truck into the dealer this morning and had the high idle TSB performed. I decided not to enable the 3 cylinder cut-off mode at this time. Anyway, I have a basic question about the high idle function.... how long does the engine normally idle before the ECM begins to ramp the idle speed up?

KATOOM

I'm confused here. I dont know of any TSB that enables high idle only. I thought you couldnt have one without the other.

Mechanos

If you read the TSB 18-019-01, you will see that the 3 cylinder shut-off is a sub-feature of the high idle routine. You can enable or disable the 3 cylinder feature and still have the idle speed increase.

ipsduc

Don't know what anyone else is talking about....when cold(0-20) the engine runs at 1000 rpm anyway. I have a remote starter and the engine warms up eventualy after idling after about 10 min. Below 40 (air,coolant,blah,blah,blah,) it runs at 1000rpm to compensate for these problems.....SEE YA

Mechanos

Your '03 does..... we're talking about older trucks that didn't have the idle speed from the factory.

Junk Yard Dog

Heres an idea that I'm currently working on: Older gas engine, carbarated, had a switch mounted to it for cold starts. Beleive it is still called a idle air control but its not a motor. It is two wire batt+, batt-, hooked to a toggle I think it will work. Just have to find the time to mount it to the pump and see how much rpm I can gain.

Why can't Dodge do what Ford does and offer a rpm controler?

Rick