2002 24 valve with edge juice and gauges also has a fass pump at the tank. I have had this truck since Early November have put several thousand miles with no problems. Currently has 224k ish.

So last week A couple times felt galloping on freeway but nothing major and when I shut down friday Edge had a wierd flash I remember. Well Saturday didnt drive it. Sunday drove it and it started dead pedal and temp guage shot up to 240* stopped and checked under hood was definately NOT overheated at all. Checked key code and got p1693. so did code reader from auto parts store: Only these codes came up:

P0122 Low voltage Throttle position sensor
Po117 Low voltage Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
P0122 again
P0117 again
So I bought a Coolant temp sensor and a TPSensor. limped home 12 miles at home replaced temp sensor but didnt do tps wanted to make sure first. ran it up to temp never went higher than just over 190* but ran rough "missing"
Today went to take TPS back and started out alright missing but drivable. well about 5-6 miles on highway started running rough temp guage went 240 so got to different auto parts place. checked to see if hot and overheating it was NOT. They scanned for codes and ended up with
P0606 ECM failure first and a slew of low voltage P0237 MAP Sensor P0112 Intake sensor P0122 TPS P0117 coolant sensor ect ect Low Volt sensor. so I looked for loose ground drivers side ground bat cable was loose so tightened it and couldnt find many more ground cables but didnt have alot of time too. I also had them check batteries (BUT ENGINE NOT RUNNING) both batteries working but like I said not with truck running so I dont know. Batteries look old have c2006 on them and are Mopar batteries.

DOES ANYONE HAVE A DIAGRAM SHOWING LOCATION OF ALL GROUND WIRES AND ECM LOCATION ECT ANYTHING SO I CAN FIGURE THIS OUT?

Im really leaning towards loose connection just because of how its acting but I am wondering why temp guage defaults to 240*? I would think the opposite would happen it would bottom out guage if faulty connection.
Auto Zone says $249 for ECM and they need VIN to program specific then I need to have it programmed once installed and I dont know anyone to install it anyways
ANY AND ALL HELP MUCH APPRECIATED THANK YOU
gauge read 12-14 psi fuel at idle

 

ok checked over all grounds they look good and none are loose. so I took batteries in to fleet farm, they hooked them up to a machine and under load they were getting/pretty bad. so I got 2 new batteries and am going to install them in a minute.
My question is even though truck would start and for the most part idle just fine would that cause ECM PCM to go haywire and temp gauge to red line and dead pedal? From what I understand from other posts with similar problems ECM PCM either works or it doesn't? If one of them fail truck wont run not gradually run worse and end up in limp mode? Thank you

 

I had a 2002 24V get towed to my house so I could take a look at it for a customer. At first he was experiencing dead pedal, and the temp and volt gauges were all over the place. He kept driving it until the engine would rev up to about 3000 by itself and fluctuate from 1800-3000 rpms. The engine would often miss also. At this point I plugged my code reader in and it showed a lot of goofy codes. The ECU seen the engine coolant temp and -40 even though the temp gauge showed 240.. After installing a new ECU all was good to go....

 

Well I changed the batteries cleaned up the post contacts. NO CHANGE keyed the codes again and this is what I got :
P PCU , P1693 , P Done , PECU , P0112 , P0342 , P1488 , P0606 , P0562 , P0237 , P0217 , P1295 , PDONE

PLEASE HELP I NEED MY TRUCK FOR WORK AND I DON'T KNOW ANY GOOD MECHANICS AROUND HERE TO TAKE IT TO. IF I GET AN ECM OR A PCM HOW DO I KNOW WHICH ONE TO GET IF I EVEN NEED IT AND HOW WOULD I PROGRAM IT ONCE INSTALLED? STILL STARTS AND IDLES NO PROBLEM JUST WON'T DRIVE SO DOES ANYONE KNOW IF A TRUCK WILL RUN IDLE AND LIMP DRIVE IF EITHER PCM OR ECM IS DEFECTIVE? THANK YOU

 

hey LovinCTD when you replaced ECU how did you program it? they are telling me with VIN they can program it but I also need to program it once installed. And how do I know if its ECU or PCU needs replacing?

 

just talked to cummins they said probably ecm but to check alternator because it could be overcharging and could fry a new ecm if installed.
yay looks like somehow have to throw bunch of parts at this truck with money I do not have at all getting real sick of dodge

 

Did you figure anything out? I've got an 02 with almost identical problems.

 

Well I talked with a local guy I called trying to buy his ecm from his 2002 engine he had for sale and he works on cummins a lot and had me check the intake air heater relay and couple other connections. well relay was corroded and cracked so I got a new one and installed it and also he told me to make sure I recalibrate TPS after battery disconnected for so long to retrain it. still pegging hot 240* almost immediately after starting, tried several more drives and start stops ect. some of the time it would run alright but would temp out and limp mode. so talked with him again and he said to completely disconnect the edge w/attitude box because those have known to cause problems w/ecm so Im going to try that and see if that works

 

Sounds like the sensors are not getting the 5 volts from the ECU.
It could be the ECU or the wiring from it to the sensors.
You could pull the connector off of one of the sensors and check for the 5 volts with key on.
If you don't get the 5 volts at the sensor connector, see if it's coming out of the ECU.
If it is good coming out of the ECM but not getting to the sensor connector, it's probably the wiring.
Watch your voltmeter while you go along the wiring harness wiggling it.
If you see the 5 volts come and go at the connector while wiggling, you can narrow down the location of the bad spot in the wiring.
A wiring problem could be either a break in the wire, or a short to ground.

P.S.
The 5 Volt supply wire for the APPS coming out of the ECM is connector Pin 31 Dark Blue / White.
I think the coolant temperature sensor is a single wire, so it wouldn't have a 5 volt supply.
That would kind of point to the ECM, or a short to ground being the problem, rather than a break in a wire.

 

ok I completely disconnected my edge box. and still had the same problems temp gauge all wacky.

I did try earlier, when the edge was still connected, disconnecting the plug on the coolant temp sensor near the thermostat and it still was showing 240* on the gauge and would fluctuate. Also the gauge maxes out at 240* pretty much within a minute or 2 of start up and then drops and fluctuates but mainly stays at or near 240*.

Im thinking there is a short somewhere & what sucks is I don't have a voltmeter to check for 5v at all the sensors. I did after talking to my friend, who went on edge website checking all my codes, deduce that it is highly probable that it is a SHORT somewhere and he suggested a/c pump area.

So I sprayed electrical cleaner degreaser on the a/c compressor connections as they were oily and I wanted to disconnect them to see if it fixed the problem but I could not figure out or get them apart (there is 2 one on hard aluminum line that's touching the coolant pipe going to the trans cooler tank under the turbo and 1 at the back of a/c compressor)

So I don't know what to do. thinking ill either take my chances and buy a voltmeter and try and figure out where short is or ill take it to a local auto repair place that can try and figure electrical problem out for me. What sucks is I don't have much money left or time and I need to change brakes on my wifes car tomorrow as they are grinding. really bad time for this to happen for me.
Wish I could find someone to trade me for a 12 valve so I can get working and someone could fix it that has more time and patience then me. Thanks for any help or ideas you all have

 

today I started it and let it idle for more than 5 minutes temp gauge didn't move off 140*. Then I gave it a little throttle and it bounced all over the place and would dead petal and/or sputter. then the gauge wouldn't sit still. then I turned off and went and disconnected the temp sensor and started it again gauge still went haywire and when I felt the thermostat housing it wasn't even hot at all so I don't know what to do. so frustrated right now losing so much work its ridiculous with no other vehicle. about ready just to get rid of it and get out of cummins Sick of all the headaches and problems

 

It sounds like you have a sensor wire that has rubbed through and is shorting, try checking the sensor wires down by the AC compressor especially the one to the HP cutout look for one that is resting on a metal pipe or line.

 

This is for 2002, but it may be accurate for other model years as well.

 

Drew mine is a 2002. I also went and got a voltmeter. and so far the coolant temp, Air intake temp and map sensor plugs read 4.96v with key on.

 

Good, so now you need to have someone monitor that voltage while you wiggle the wiring harness.
If wiggling doesn't make the voltage drop, then try monitoring the voltage with the engine running, and give it some throttle to make the problem appear.
When it does, see if the voltmeter reads low.

BTW, when the coolant temp sensor is unplugged, the gauge should go to 240.
This is normal.