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help installing holley blue fuel pump

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Old 09-02-2007 | 09:54 AM
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realtreehunter's Avatar
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From: ohio
help installing holley blue fuel pump

im going to put the holley blue elec fuel pump on my buddys truck and i need to know the materials i need and what fuel lines to tap into and also what color wire to tap into the ig switch he has a 2001 2500 4x4 auto thanks
Old 09-02-2007 | 10:41 AM
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From: myakka city fl
youll need a trigger wire from the original lift pump power supply to a relay to run the holley. use the original conn at both ends is easy and keeps fuel press high enough. 3/8 fits over it and clamp em twice. mt it low as ya think safe and close to the tank as poss.
careful usin anything offa the wirin harness to run anything as its all pc controleed and they cant carry amperage for stuff like a holley. use it for a trigger to a relay
Old 09-02-2007 | 02:37 PM
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Installed mine last week.
Used a driving light relay,
unplugged the OEM lift pump, spliced a wire onto
the plus side of the cable, this wire powers the relay,

Fused + 12 volts to 1 contact terminal, other terminal to pump.

My blue pump came with a 'regulator' , tried it, pressure to low,
Removed regulator, pressure still to low,

Streched spring on pump ( under the big screw) pressure now 14 idle
and stays above 10 psi,

BUT: some fluctuation of fuel pressure when engine not loaded down, ????

Will run it awhile to see if it clears up.

Note: first try streching spring I yanked on it to much... hard to compress it back.
Go slow if you have to adjust it.
Old 09-02-2007 | 03:37 PM
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From: ohio
do i just tap in the fuel line on the frame infront of the fuel tank
Old 09-02-2007 | 05:58 PM
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From: ALBUQUERQUE
yes, just forward of the fuel tank. just cut the metal supply line and put a rubber hose between it and the holley with some hose clamps.
Old 09-02-2007 | 06:45 PM
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if you are worried about leaks, slightly flare the metal pipes,
no slip/no leak
Old 09-04-2007 | 07:05 AM
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From: San Leon
I slid the hose about a foot up the steel line on either side and used four hose clamps on both sides where it connected to the OE fuel lines. NO leaks. After you do the swap, drive it once and check for leaks. Then change the fuel filter right away in case cutting the lines allowed some shavings into the system.
Old 09-05-2007 | 07:31 PM
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what kind of relay should i use since im goin to mount it in a sys. by itself and what contacts to i hook it up to? and would the normal 87,86,30,85 relay work and if so what way should i hook that up? thanks for all the help
Old 09-05-2007 | 07:47 PM
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From: San Leon
I just used a fog lamp relay. Get them at just about any auto parts house. I take the power off the battery (through a fuse holder) and use the power wire for the OE LP to 'trigger' the relay.
Old 09-05-2007 | 09:53 PM
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From: East Millsboro, PA.
Just be sure to mount it as close to the tank as possible. Bullydog recommends within 3 ft of top of tank. I installed a few & always cut the metal line off where it bends at the end of the tank. The guys have given you great advice.
Old 09-06-2007 | 11:05 AM
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From: San Leon
Just buy an adapter to connect the hose straight into the filter housing. Vulcan and Geno's sell them. You'll need one vulcanized washer for it. Get the fog lamp relay, a (good) replacement fuel filter, and fuel pump, plenty of 3/8" fuel hose, and a bunch of hose clamps from the auto parts store. Also, if you don't have one, get a small tubing cutter and any wire/wire connectors if you don't have them. I kept a lot of the steel line and just cut into it in two places:
1: Just forward of the fuel tank. That's where the pump goes. Closer to the tank the better. I grounded the pump using one of the pump to frame mounting bolts. Used 3/8" hose to connect from the steel lines to the hose barbs on the pump. Used at least 3 clamps on the hose where it slides over the steel lines.
2: In the engine compartment where it leads to the OE fuel pump. I just cut the OE hose (and funk-monkey connector) off the steel line. I cleaned off the steel line and slid the hose over it so there was about a foot of overlap (too much I know, but just to be safe). I put at least 3 hose clamps on the hose where it was slid over the steel line (there aren't any barbs on the steel line so you're relying on clamping force alone to hold it).
I also used some heater hose to cover the clamps to keep them from chafing against anything that might be close. Secured that with some zip ties.

Should have taken photos, but I didn't want to take my digi camera out there and soak it in diesel. After you do the pump swap, do the starter bump several times to push the air out of the lines. Check for leaks while the pump is running. Then start it (it may run rough for a few seconds until all the air is gone) and check for leaks. Drive it for a few miles and check your fuel pressure. Then when you get back home change the fuel filter just to get out any metal shavings you might have gotten when cutting the steel line.
Old 09-25-2007 | 05:23 PM
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From: Earth
Please note that you can purchase the washer's that go on the fitting that goes into the stock fuel filter at your local Dodge dealer or via Vulcan.

I'm putting a shut-off valve before my Racor aux. fuel filter/water seperator and mount on the frame rail along with my Holley Black fuel pump. I've got the Vulcan Big Line kit and its being run in parrallel with the stock/upgraded in-tank pump. I've also purchased the Dodge factory male/female elec. connectors and soldered them on my Holley fuel pump and aux. elec. connectors via a relay. Got it from Vulcan also. Got 3/8" fuel line to go with the install.

I've had most of the pieces to install it for a while but been to busy to do the install but now that I have my drill & tap (to install on the frame rail), I think I'll do the work hopefully this weekend or next weekend. My stock pump is putting out 9psi's which is'nt a lot.

I'll take pics of it when I'm finished.

PS. Please note that sometime in the near future, I plan on pulling out the upgraded Dodge in-tank pump and put the orig. fuel module back in with the Vulcan Draw Straw upgrade.
Old 09-25-2007 | 09:50 PM
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i have been back and forth on the fuel pump issue. I have a stock 2001 3500 that I am getting ready to add a system too. I doubt that I ever really modify the truck much, maybe an EZ Edge and bigger injectors some day but not even sure on that, especially the injectors. I am really considering the Fuel Boss Mechanical pump from Glacier and also looked at the FASS system but have wondered how good and reliable the Holley Blue really is. The truck will run a lot of empty miles and will also pull an enclosed car trailer with 60's Mopars (One car at a time) in it. How good does the Holley Blue or Black do and do I keep the original lift pump in the system as well? Or is the Fuel Boss the better way to go even with the added expense ($629.00)? I want a reliable truck and not have to constantly worry about killing a VP, I know it will eventually probably happen but I dont want to speed the process up. Any opinions, I know this has been beat to death.
Old 10-17-2007 | 06:49 PM
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Stupid question here. When cutting the fuel line (with a hacksaw?) to install the pump, do you need to disconnect it and purge it of fuel or just go for it and not worry about sparks etc? I know you wouldnt cut a gasoline fuel line with gas in it, but are you guys taking this line off or is diesel different and wont go up? I am planning on installing mine this weekend.
Old 10-17-2007 | 07:09 PM
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From: San Leon
Best to spring for a small tubing cutter. I would try to avoid using a hacksaw as it tends to get a LOT of small metal shavings into the lines. You don't have to buy an expensive cutter (unless you're going to use it a lot) just one that's good enough to make a couple cuts. That line is steel and a lot harder than brake line though.



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