HELP---broke truck--and it it cold
#16
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Thanks for the advice. One of the six bolts remained on the pully. The hole in the pulley where the last bolt stayed in place is kind of tweeked. I think that I need to remove the pulley and hit it on an anvil to flattend the hole. It is bent mabey a 1/16 of an inch. If I don't I am afraid that it will not mate up tight again. How do you get a wrench on the front side of that fan nut? It is so tight against the radiator. Do I need to remove the radiator? Not fun in the snow..
#17
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If you have to remove the fan assembly that big nut is a left hand nut, you gan wack it with a drift punch and hammer to break it loose or wack a 36mm wrench with a hammer to break it loose DodgeRam.org > Main > Diesel Index > 1st / 2nd / 3rd Gen Maint > Fan Removal
Diesel Fan Removal
The thread is left hand; from the front of the engine you turn the wrench to the right (toward the driver side). Do this when the engine is cool.
Some people pull the entire fan/hub assembly out past the radiator shroud, others remove the fan first, then remove the hub.
In many cases, a drift punch and hammer are are the easiest tools to use for breaking the nut loose - place the punch on the driver side of the fan nut face and hit the punch with a hammer. When the nut has been loosened, it can be removed by hand or with a pair of channel lock pliers. One person reported that an air chisel quickly loosened the nut.
To remove fan drive assembly with a wrench, use 36mm or 1 7/16" wrench (some use a 1 1/2" wrench). You may need to whack the wrench with a hammer to break the nut loose. The fan hub can be held with channel lock pliers or you can use a 3/8" breaker bar on the belt tensioner to tighten the belt.
Once the nut breaks loose, you can unscrew it by hand and pull it out the top while pushing the upper radiator hose out of the way.
Store the fan upright so the oil doesn't come out.
To replace the fan, hand tighten the nut with channel locks. The engine will torque the nut.
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Diesel Fan Removal
The thread is left hand; from the front of the engine you turn the wrench to the right (toward the driver side). Do this when the engine is cool.
Some people pull the entire fan/hub assembly out past the radiator shroud, others remove the fan first, then remove the hub.
In many cases, a drift punch and hammer are are the easiest tools to use for breaking the nut loose - place the punch on the driver side of the fan nut face and hit the punch with a hammer. When the nut has been loosened, it can be removed by hand or with a pair of channel lock pliers. One person reported that an air chisel quickly loosened the nut.
To remove fan drive assembly with a wrench, use 36mm or 1 7/16" wrench (some use a 1 1/2" wrench). You may need to whack the wrench with a hammer to break the nut loose. The fan hub can be held with channel lock pliers or you can use a 3/8" breaker bar on the belt tensioner to tighten the belt.
Once the nut breaks loose, you can unscrew it by hand and pull it out the top while pushing the upper radiator hose out of the way.
Store the fan upright so the oil doesn't come out.
To replace the fan, hand tighten the nut with channel locks. The engine will torque the nut.
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#20
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I was about ready to go outside and then I remebered that I do not have a sticker under the hood to tell me how to route the belt properly. I can't seem to find a good picture of it. I know, I am slow when it comes to fixing things. Prior commitments unfortunetly keep plugging up my schedule..
#21
This whole preocess should NOT even invlove the large innner bolt at all.
If the pulley is muffed, you should just get a new one. While your there, get the 6 10mm bolts and some loc-tite so that never happens again.
??
If the pulley is muffed, you should just get a new one. While your there, get the 6 10mm bolts and some loc-tite so that never happens again.
??
#22
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I was not man enough to break the 36mm nut loose. First I loosened the fan shroud. I then removed the entire mount off of the engine which consisted of four 10mm bots. I then put a 5/8" socket on the back side of that assembly and loosened it that way. I found that I had three broken bolts in the machined fitting that the pulley bolts to. I used a No. 2 ez-out (7/64" drill bit) to remove the broken bolts. I could have a new pulley from Cummins for $45+, so I ordered one from the Dodge garage for under $35. Thanks to everyone for the advice. RANGERS LEAD THE WAY.
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