ImprezdGurl

My truck is not blowing any heat through the vents. You can hear the blower working, but no air is coming out. The door that you can see through the glove box is working fine. What can possibly be wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated.

J BODY

Default is to route the air to defrost. Do you have that?

ImprezdGurl

No. Defrost doesn't work. None of the settings work.

moto953

I am having a similar problem. My vents are working but the defrost and floor vents are not. I had it looked at and no easy fix. The only way into the box is to have the dash taking out. I am going to buy a used heater and have a buddies shop help with the dash. I found one for $150 and its a lot cheaper than new. They say if you never seen one come out pay to have it done or you will pull your hair out. The dodge guy that I've been dealing with says that this is becoming pretty common. Good luck

Hercules

Let me get this right...you can hear the blower fan running, but there is no air flow coming out of any of the vents regardless of whether you set it on heat to blow hot air or a/c to blow cold? Also, I'm guessing that it still doesn't blow any air if you set it circulate air rather than draw air from the outside? If I am correct in understanding what your saying there are only a couple things that come to mind. First, and probably unlikely but possible, the fan itself has somehow stripped off the blower motor shaft. So, you hear the blower motor, but the fan is not spinning with it. Second, I believe that the controls are vacuum controlled(I could be wrong). So, I'm wondering if one of the control lines has either clogged(possibly condensation freezing), or is leaking which caused it to get hung up between positions. You MAY be able to test this by removing the the controls and attaching a hand vacuum pump on to each vacuum line coming off the back of the climate controls one at a time so as to keep the system closed for the most part. The third thing that comes to mind is the possibility that enough leaves or debris are clogging the air flow through the heater core. I've never actually seen a complete clog from that, but, I have seen stuff come out of that cavity in other vehicles that I never thought possible.

Busboy

I have seen some cases where the fan motor shaft has stripped the squirrel cage and was just spinning around without turning the squirrel cage very fast,if this is the case it would be making one hell of a racket. If it's normal noise then look under the drives side with a light and you will see the different colored vac lines going to the various actuators, you can move one manually, the yellow one is easiest to reach and should give you vent. If this works then you have a vacuum control problem. As you said the recirc door inside the glove box works then you do have vacuum to the controls but is it getting distributed correctly? The recric door should only be open (vacuum to the act) in MAX AC and OFF. If all this works then unfortunately you must have the evaporator core plugged with leaves. I have seen this before but never so it COMPLETELY blocked the airflow.

dawgo1

MY truck had the no defrost problem. onlly heat to the floor, no dash vents.
The vaccuum line from the pump to the heater had broken at the tee fitting near the pump.
Between the two heater coolant line you will see a vaccum line, follow it along the fire wall back towards the drivers side. You will find a double tee fitting, follow he line don from there towards the engine driven vwccuum pump, here you will find another tee fitting, one of these fittings probably is broken, he hose is dry rotted or something of the kind. If the leak is bad enough it will throw on the brake light as the vaccuum sensor( located on the drivers fender well fed by the line coming down from the double tee fitting on the firewall) is not getting enough vaccuum to keep it happy.
Hope this helps!

twropn

on my 2000 ford PSD this happened to me and it was the electronic vaccum pump....chaned the fuse (it was blown)fuse and it all started working maybe this is the case for the dodges as well

moto953

If anyone is still watching this thread now I'm really confused. We got our first snow of the year and was dreading not having defrost. Before I had the vents but nothing to the floor or defrost. I fired up the truck this morning and turned the heat up all the way and put it to the defrost and still coming out of the vent. When I came back the defrost was blowing strong. I'm not moving it away from that position in fear it will stop working again. At first I thought it was a problem with the doors in the heater and that was confirmed when I had it looked at. Could there have been something stuck in one of the doors and it just freed itself or could this be a vacuum issue?

Chrisreyn

That realy sounds like a vacum issue. i would follow teh above advise on checking teh vacum lines and see if you dotn have a leak somewhere.

hlconwayjr

My 2006 2500 did the same thing and the blend door broke off at the pivot point on the electric actuator. I removed the glove box and found the door lying in the bottom of the air handler. There is a cage that prevents the door from being removed unless you remove the entire A/C package. I opted not to remove the A/C package but cut the cage out and remove the door and the piece that broke off. I drilled four holes in the door adjacent to the pivot arm that broke off and stitched it back together with some stainless steel wire. Added some JB weld and put it all back together. It is obvious that the electric motor over torques the door which twists pivot arm off the door. I did not see where the motor had any adjustments to prevent this from recurring. I am sure time will tell. Some may not agree with this repair but it sure was a lot less expensive than removing the entire dash not to mention breaking the seal on the A/C unit.

Amber White

I was having issues and popped the hood and my a.c. pump was running and was froze up ???? I pulled the relay for the a.c. works like a champ now all a.c. lines were frosted white.

Fordzilla

Frosted suction (low side) lines beyond the expansion valve or orifice tube are sometimes an indication that the system is low on refrigerant, in which case the only way to know is to use pressure gauges...If it is low check for leaks with an electronic sniffer because refrigerant doesn't just disappear for no reason...You say it works like a champ now, but this is January, and you did not say what climate you're in......Ben