Hard starts when warm, vp44 going bad?
#1
Hard starts when warm, vp44 going bad?
My ’01 normally always starts with just a quick bump of the starter, however for the past week or so, when the engine is warm it takes several cranks to get the engine to fire. This only seems to happen with a warm engine, when I try to start the truck 5-10 minutes after shutting it down. I read on another post that this is the first sign of the VP44 going bad. What should I check first, fuel pressure? Should there be any codes, the "check engine" light is off? Any other ideas? I'm kind of new to the 24-valve side, thanks.
#3
Yes, check the fp first. No or low fp will cause hard start and take the VP$$ with it if it's not already bad.
Also, you should be able to do the key "on/off" three times and get any codes. If you don't already know about this, any codes will come up on the odometer, followed by "P done". Don't start the engine, just cycle the key.
Good luck.
Also, you should be able to do the key "on/off" three times and get any codes. If you don't already know about this, any codes will come up on the odometer, followed by "P done". Don't start the engine, just cycle the key.
Good luck.
#4
Did the on/off thing three times with the key and no codes, just the “p done.” Didn’t know about this trick, thanks.
I know that low fuel press can kill the VP44, but why would this cause hard starts with a warm engine only?
What is the easiest (cheapest) way to check fuel press? I know there is a schrader valve at the VP’s inlet, but where do I get an adapter and what gauge should I use?
I know that low fuel press can kill the VP44, but why would this cause hard starts with a warm engine only?
What is the easiest (cheapest) way to check fuel press? I know there is a schrader valve at the VP’s inlet, but where do I get an adapter and what gauge should I use?
#6
higher fuel pressure to the pump can also cause this. I have a pusher pump going relay'd off of the stock lift pump and it hits just under 20psi peak. If I try to start it when the lp/pusher are running full it cranks for a longer time before it starts, if i wait, however, untill the fuel pressure drops (gauge) it starts normally. I remember others saying something like that. Now I dont know if you have a pusher pump but try waiting a couple seconds after the lift pump stops cycling and see if it starts normally. Hope this helps,
TNutcher
TNutcher
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#8
Check for codes...
Check FUEL PRESSURE... Since you don't have a gauge... I HIGHLY SUGGEST you get a fuel pressure gauge...
But normally a hard start while warm is a sign of a dieing VP44 pump... Usually comes with a P0216 code...
Check FUEL PRESSURE... Since you don't have a gauge... I HIGHLY SUGGEST you get a fuel pressure gauge...
But normally a hard start while warm is a sign of a dieing VP44 pump... Usually comes with a P0216 code...
#10
It is my understanding that, when warmed up, the motor will normally crank a tiny bit longer to start...something about compression differences when warm v. when cold.
Mine starts with a half a crank when cold (almost nothing), but when warm, it starts with a 3/4 of a crank (a tiny bit longer but not much) and was this way even with a new VP and LP a couple years ago.
Beforehand, When the VP was shot, and had no codes, it took 15 to 30 seconds of cranking to get it to start. Which, of course, is not normal, and I had to threaten with a lawsuit before they replaced it.
My guess is that the injectors are shooting air the first few seconds, rather than nothing, but I have absolutely nothing to back that up. But if they are shooting air, then they are getting the air from somewhere???? But where.
OK
Mine starts with a half a crank when cold (almost nothing), but when warm, it starts with a 3/4 of a crank (a tiny bit longer but not much) and was this way even with a new VP and LP a couple years ago.
Beforehand, When the VP was shot, and had no codes, it took 15 to 30 seconds of cranking to get it to start. Which, of course, is not normal, and I had to threaten with a lawsuit before they replaced it.
My guess is that the injectors are shooting air the first few seconds, rather than nothing, but I have absolutely nothing to back that up. But if they are shooting air, then they are getting the air from somewhere???? But where.
OK
#11
Originally Posted by Puke
It is my understanding that, when warmed up, the motor will normally crank a tiny bit longer to start...something about compression differences when warm v. when cold.
Mine starts with a half a crank when cold (almost nothing), but when warm, it starts with a 3/4 of a crank (a tiny bit longer but not much) and was this way even with a new VP and LP a couple years ago.
Beforehand, When the VP was shot, and had no codes, it took 15 to 30 seconds of cranking to get it to start. Which, of course, is not normal, and I had to threaten with a lawsuit before they replaced it.
My guess is that the injectors are shooting air the first few seconds, rather than nothing, but I have absolutely nothing to back that up. But if they are shooting air, then they are getting the air from somewhere???? But where.
OK
Mine starts with a half a crank when cold (almost nothing), but when warm, it starts with a 3/4 of a crank (a tiny bit longer but not much) and was this way even with a new VP and LP a couple years ago.
Beforehand, When the VP was shot, and had no codes, it took 15 to 30 seconds of cranking to get it to start. Which, of course, is not normal, and I had to threaten with a lawsuit before they replaced it.
My guess is that the injectors are shooting air the first few seconds, rather than nothing, but I have absolutely nothing to back that up. But if they are shooting air, then they are getting the air from somewhere???? But where.
OK
If the fuel pressure shows normal, and I still get no codes, what should I do next? I don’t want to get stranded somewhere with a broken VP, should I have the computer reflashed?
#13
1st 2001 tsb for hard starts
SA00-11 Diesel - hard start, no start, surging, missing
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001-index.htm#09_engine
2nd one is for the ecm reflash
18-015-00a Driveability Enhancements For Winter Fuel and For Hard Starts
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001-index.htm#18
SA00-11 Diesel - hard start, no start, surging, missing
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001-index.htm#09_engine
2nd one is for the ecm reflash
18-015-00a Driveability Enhancements For Winter Fuel and For Hard Starts
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001-index.htm#18
#14
I have a 98 motor home with the 24v cumins. Although it's 8 yrs old, it only has around 20k miles on it. It has always started on the first bump, cold, hot and everywhere inbetween until this spring. When warm, it would take either alot of cranking, or a series of bumps to get it going. It was very consistant problem.
After doing a lot of searching on these forums, I figured I'd start with the lift pump and go from there. After changing that out, the problem continued. I checked all the usual things, wires, relays, filters etc. I did find a couple nuts on a couple relays that were...lets say, not all that tight.
I did some more checking on this problem in publications and here, and noted the ecm flash that you mentioned. I called the local cumins shop and set up an appointment.
After hooking the thing up to the computer, checking the installed version etc, they went looking for the right updated flash. As it turns out, they only show the last five yrs in their discs, and have to go higher up to get a password exception to look into the archives. Once they got that, it was easy to find the upgraded version and follow it up to the latest. They flashed the unit, checked for codes (none at all) and took my $300 bucks.
So far, the engine starts like it always did now, hot, cold and anywhere in between, it fires on the first bump. I'm not sure what the flash does, and what changed along the way. They really couldn't tell me other than it does indeed work for this problem. I'd sure like to know though.
Bottom line, if you are having this problem, I would take it in and have the flash done.
Good luck
cub
After doing a lot of searching on these forums, I figured I'd start with the lift pump and go from there. After changing that out, the problem continued. I checked all the usual things, wires, relays, filters etc. I did find a couple nuts on a couple relays that were...lets say, not all that tight.
I did some more checking on this problem in publications and here, and noted the ecm flash that you mentioned. I called the local cumins shop and set up an appointment.
After hooking the thing up to the computer, checking the installed version etc, they went looking for the right updated flash. As it turns out, they only show the last five yrs in their discs, and have to go higher up to get a password exception to look into the archives. Once they got that, it was easy to find the upgraded version and follow it up to the latest. They flashed the unit, checked for codes (none at all) and took my $300 bucks.
So far, the engine starts like it always did now, hot, cold and anywhere in between, it fires on the first bump. I'm not sure what the flash does, and what changed along the way. They really couldn't tell me other than it does indeed work for this problem. I'd sure like to know though.
Bottom line, if you are having this problem, I would take it in and have the flash done.
Good luck
cub