Grid Heaters
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Location: Sturbridge, Taxachusetts
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These are the ways I know. I'm sure there is a better method.
1) Turn the ignition to the armed position, and wait the prescribed time for the light to go out. Start and look at the volt meter. If the voltage is low and then begins to recover, you probably have functioning grids. Also after starting, and at idle, if the lights dim and brighten, and the volt meter drops and recovers repeatedly, you have functioning grids.
2) Remove the air horn, the aluminum, kind of square tube from the intake. The grids will be visible. Arm the ignition, but don't start. The grid will glow like toaster elements. There are 2 sets of grids. Both should glow.
Each grid should pull approximately 90 amps for a total of 180 amps. That's a lot of current!
Do this soon because with the warm weather coming, the air sensor will disable the grid heaters above 60 degrees (I think).
1) Turn the ignition to the armed position, and wait the prescribed time for the light to go out. Start and look at the volt meter. If the voltage is low and then begins to recover, you probably have functioning grids. Also after starting, and at idle, if the lights dim and brighten, and the volt meter drops and recovers repeatedly, you have functioning grids.
2) Remove the air horn, the aluminum, kind of square tube from the intake. The grids will be visible. Arm the ignition, but don't start. The grid will glow like toaster elements. There are 2 sets of grids. Both should glow.
Each grid should pull approximately 90 amps for a total of 180 amps. That's a lot of current!
Do this soon because with the warm weather coming, the air sensor will disable the grid heaters above 60 degrees (I think).
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