high bid

Glad you got it running!
Waiting on my FASS DRP for install.
The code that kept coming up is for crank position sensor, ordered a new one from Genos garage.
Really watching the fuel psi gauge if/when I have to drive it making sure to be very easy on the go pedal.....

robert78.5

Well it ran yesterday, parked it last night, -12c this morning, hit key had 12 lbs pressure, waited for glow plug to go out , started it and had 12 lbs at idle, went in house for a few minutes and it sounded like it was starving for fuel, out i went and sure enough it was down to zero lbs on gauge, i shut key off. and sit for a few minutes, bumped key ,,,,,,12 lbs, started it and watched gauge slowly go to zero. i put volt meter on wire end on wire going to + to pump and had 12.5 volts. than truck died. has me stumped, only codes i can see with the odometer is P0500 and P01693, when i checked P01693 it says for overboost warning, is there something in ecm shutting down my pressure? I am going to plug pump straight to ecm again once it warms up a little and see what happens. .

AlpineRAM

I'd connect that pump directly to the battery and check if you lose pressure the same way then.
Just watch fuel pressure with the engine off for some minutes.
Then start the engine and watch fuel pressure.

robert78.5

Does the bypass valve on VP44 come into play only when engine starts or does it bypass while engine is off?

AlpineRAM

The bypass always works. It is also responsible for getting the unused fuel from the vane pump in the VP44 back into the return line for cooling and lubing the pump.

At engine stop the lift pump has an easy life and does not need to flow much. With the engine running the VP44 actually is meant to pull fuel from the tank, and it will suck a low flow lift pump dry.

robert78.5

I will hook pump directly to battery this weekend as it is too cold outside to work on now, I purchased a toyhauler this summer and truck handled it well,, 36 ft 5th wheel, with the age of the electronics i think i will keep my eyes open for a newer cummins truck.What year did they become less dependent on electronics for running?

AlpineRAM

For less electronics dependency - you will need to go older truck.
A 12V truck with manual trans can be rigged to be driven without any electrical wire in it (OK, no speedo, lights, turn signals etc but it still moves on it's own without any reduction in performance or economy)

I do think that your problem is not an electronics problem, but more of an intermittent blockage of the fuel flow or a series of insufficient pumps.

high bid

Update: Installed the FASS DRP pump and big-line hose from the factory filter housing. Fuel psi is at 17.
Will complete the warranty card for the 4yr warranty. Excellent service and fast shipping from Geno's Garage.
Going to change out the crank position sensor and swap the trans pan gasket and all should be good.

robert78.5

Where did you put the pump? On engine or in front of fuel tank. Did you install a filter between pump and fuel tank? Also did you plug direct into ecm or did you install a relay?

high bid

Robert - The FASS DRP-02 pump is a direct replacement and mounted in the factory location using the factory plug and wiring. A while back I had a holley pusher pump mounted on the frame which was wired using a relay but it is has long since been removed since the holley pumps didn't last. I do have a frame mounted spin-on baldwin BF957 filter mounted on the frame as close to the factory tank as possible. It's easy to spin on/off and has served as a good pre-filter to the lift pump and then flows fuel to the factory housing and filter. Hope this helps.

robert78.5

That is the same Fass pump as i removed. I must admit i feel a little foolish, as i had changed the inline filter i had installed last spring and could barely blow through it with my lips. I know that is not a good scientific test, but i installed a new filter and all works well now. i am thinking of using a larger inline filter as i have the common small canister style in 3/8 line pictured here, not sure what micron it is ,but might be too small for this application. I will research the Baldwin BF957 filter.

high bid

No worries... sometimes it takes thinking through the process and multiple tests...lol.
FASS sent a similar filter with the pump, a WIX 33007. I don't know how they'd expect this little plastic filter to do any reasonable job?
I can use it for the lawn mower filter but want a much larger filter on the truck to keep up with the flow rates and will keep the Baldwin spin-on.

AlpineRAM

Those small filters are more of a pre-screen to keep elephants out of the pump.
No problem with flow until they are plugged.
I like to use transparent filters (screens) on the suction side. Easy to check if they are plugged, visual control of flow and aeration.

robert78.5

Ok all running good, i will keep the carter style pump on for winter as i am not pulling trailer. In the spring i will reinstall my Fass pump . I was thinking of moving it to a location closer to fuel tank to save it from having to draw fuel so far. Thinking this might help extend the pumps life a little bit.

high bid

Well plenty of fuel psi from the FASS DRP lift pump install. Now the dreaded cold hard to start issue. At first, I thought it was just an issue of bleeding off the air in the fuel system but after a few days of on/off driving, the truck is difficult to start when cold. Truck starts find after the initial daily start up but takes probably 15-20 seconds of cranking to start. Fuel psi initially bumps up to about 5psi when the key is turned on and then when cranking will go up to 16psi. I have searched and read for 2 days the various issues of "hard to start after FASS install" of which most seem to have issues of hard to start when warm, not cold as my issue is.
Going to check all fuel line connections for any leaks as from reading this may be an potential issue or cause of the cold start problem.