extremely ticked....rotors wont come off!!!!
12-01-2007, 11:07 PM
#16
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Also what size 16 star socket do I need to remove the hub? And is there anything I should watch out for when this sucker comes off?
Oh and one more thing! Once I remove the hub/rotor assembly how do I get the rotor seperated from it? Honestly I dont' see why I have to remove the hub to remove the rotor.
Oh and one more thing! Once I remove the hub/rotor assembly how do I get the rotor seperated from it? Honestly I dont' see why I have to remove the hub to remove the rotor.
12-02-2007, 07:36 AM
#17
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Changing rotors for the 1st time is a royal pain and not straight forward as it appears. Heed the advise of others. Just be careful beating and banging because the hubs are not cheap. Oh yea, just be glad you don't have a dually!
12-02-2007, 08:52 AM
#18
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use the press off method with the extenstion it will take u 2 seconds to get them off. make sure u support those axles cauz they are heavy and u will deform the seals. it is a pita job.
12-02-2007, 11:00 AM
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And I asked to figure out how. Also there are replies from people that have done it, but there are also some replies refering to them working on newer trucks that the rotor just slides off.
12-02-2007, 05:53 PM
#20
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I had the same thing happen on my '98 12 valve 4x4. The passenger side hub would not come off. I wanted to get the rotors cut. I had to use one of these pullers to get it off. http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=1601
My bearing did seperate but I was able to press it back together and it lasted nearly 60,000 miles. You can get the rotors cut without seperating them from the hubs, but the whole rotor hub assembly obviously has to come off. It makes me laugh that the factory service manual states to apply liberal amounts of anti-seize to everything, yet everything was bone dry from the factory. Go figure. You should be able to rent a puller or you may try Autozone. They will loan you tools. When you reassemble everything use anti-seize on everything and next time everything will come apart real easy. -Glen
My bearing did seperate but I was able to press it back together and it lasted nearly 60,000 miles. You can get the rotors cut without seperating them from the hubs, but the whole rotor hub assembly obviously has to come off. It makes me laugh that the factory service manual states to apply liberal amounts of anti-seize to everything, yet everything was bone dry from the factory. Go figure. You should be able to rent a puller or you may try Autozone. They will loan you tools. When you reassemble everything use anti-seize on everything and next time everything will come apart real easy. -Glen
12-02-2007, 09:56 PM
#21
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Well got the hub assembly off. Removed the 4 bolts and gave it a tug. I found that my left front caliper was froze and had to be replaced. This is what cause my inner brake pad to wear prematurely. Thanks for the help guys.
12-03-2007, 07:17 AM
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I wasn't being hostile Dave, or at least I didn't mean to be.
You were arguing the fact hubs had to come off while all the replies were explaining why they had to.
I am glad you got them off easily, my '99 were that way too, I just replaced the
ball joints on the '01 and they were TOUGH.....
You were arguing the fact hubs had to come off while all the replies were explaining why they had to.
I am glad you got them off easily, my '99 were that way too, I just replaced the
ball joints on the '01 and they were TOUGH.....
12-05-2007, 12:24 PM
#23
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rotor
REMOVE THE CALIPETR. REMOVE THE HUB NUT AND TAKE OFF THE BOLTS THROUGH THE BACK AND REMOVE HUB ASSEMBLY. THE WHOLE ASSY COMES OFF. THEN POUND OR PRESS OUT THE LUG STUDS TO REPLACE ROTORS. DO NOT SEPERATE THE BEARING ASSEMBLY. tHE AXLE MAY COME OUT WITH THE HUB BUT JUST KNOCK IT OUT OF THE HUB ASSY AND PUT IT BACK. LUBE STUDS AND ALLE WHEN PUTTING TOGETHER.
LOM
LOM
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