SuperDave4x4

How in the world do I get my rotors off!!?!?!?!?! I got the 1 11/16" nut off and my rotors are stuck on the outer axle shaft. Any ideas at all??? I need help bad! If I had a giant pitman arm puller I could get it off.

red70ragtop

You know, I had mine off on my 94, but I don't recall if they gave me trouble or not. Are you going to replace them? I put the EGR slotted ones on mine going back together. So it could be I just used a BFH to get them off.

Mud Ready

Im not sure which style they used in 99 but on my 00 the rotors simply slide off after removing the caliper. The axle nut doesnt even need to be removed. On the 96 the rotor is mounted behind the hub and the studs have to be pressed out to remove the rotor from the hub (PITA).

J OOPS

Remove the two 16mm bolts holding the caliper and slide rotor off. It may be rusted on, just whack it with a hammer and she should come off.

Dr. Evil

Sounds to me like you are doing it wrong. Put the big nut back on as you do not want to seperate the hub. Then read this:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&postcount=10

The extension truck didnt work for me - the rotors made it through 7 winters of slush and road salt so they had to be beaten off - 4 pound hammers on either side of the rotor. Other than that, evertything went exactly as Infidel explained.

Good luck.

J OOPS

Thread 5 links you to a guy working on a 95 dodge. Wrong year. Your truck which is a 99 has different caliper set up. A Big hammer should work ok.

Valv

No, no, no, No big hammer here.

The rotors on a '99 are held from the inside of the bearing hub. You CANNOT just slide rotors out, you have to remove whole hub/bearing assembly by taking the 4 12 point bolts from the inside (back) of the hub, then take big axle nut off.

When you have the hub assembly+rotor off, you will have to drive the 8 studs out. Only THEN your rotor will come off and separate from the rest.

Do a search on this site for similar issue, you will get detailed instruction and possibly pictures of.

Dr. Evil

Pics and procedure are in the link I posted previously - and it worked on my '98. Sometimes a hammer is the only way to get the rotor/hub assembly off. I tried the trick with the extension & powersteering and just managed to bend my extension.

Use LOTs of antiseize when you put it back together.

megajoltman

You are wrong they are not floating rotors as on your year of truck

2000/2001 the rotors just slide off (floating rotor)


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=slide+rotors

SuperDave4x4

Well no luck so far. If i use the power steering method how do I keep the bearing from falling apart? And it says to take 3 of the 4 bolts off and to keep the fourth one some what tight to prevent the bearing from falling apart but wouldn't it just fall apart once the hub is removed? This blows. I dont have time to fiddle with this I have work and on top of that finals for my classes are here, so I need to be studying...

Dr. Evil

The big nut keeps the bearing from seperating. And the rotor is held on the hub by the wheel studs. You have to put nuts on the ends of the studs and drive them out with a hammer.

If your truck is rusty you cannot replace the rotors in a coulple of hours. Plan on a whole day.

SuperDave4x4

Also what size 16 star socket do I need to remove the hub? And is there anything I should watch out for when this sucker comes off?

Oh and one more thing! Once I remove the hub/rotor assembly how do I get the rotor seperated from it? Honestly I dont' see why I have to remove the hub to remove the rotor.

Need95-00CTD

I believe the 12 point nuts (4) on the back of the knuckle that hold the hub/bearing assembly on are 9/16". Make sure you get a 1/2" drive socket...preferably a high impact, because they are really that hard to get off. You WILL need to pull the axle nut to get the hub and bearing off, unless you want to mess with pulling the whole axle shaft out, then pound out the studs which are the only thing that holds the rotor on(put a nut on the studs otherwise you'll mushroom the threads out) and then the rotor will fall off the hub towards the knuckle side of the hub (the studs are pressed into the rotor, through the hub...thats what holds the rotor on, you'll see when you get there). Its a retarded design...I know...I used to work at Dana and had to change these suckers all the time to test new parts.

Make sure you replace them with a better rotor, otherwise you'll be doing this again well before you want to. Use some thread locker on your 12pt hub bolts, believe it or not it will make them easier to get out next time without letting them loosen until then. Everything else besides the studs gets a thorough coat of never-seize.

Valv

Well then don't do it, since that's the only way.

As others and me said you will have to drive wheel studs off hub assembly to separate the rotor from hub.

If you don't agree then don't ask how, replies are from people that did it, and WE know how.

kwast

yes you need to remove the 4 bolts from the inside of the assembly. as the wheel studs will need to be pounded out. you can do this by pulling the whole axle out as that is how I did mine the first time because the 1" 11/16 nut wouldn't come off. if you leave one bolt part way out and do the socket/extension trick with the powersteering have some one hold a little sterring pressure on the steering wheel and then u can pound on the rotor and it should come off.

oh and the bearing should be a pressed on unit and will not fall apart.