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The everlasting #53

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Old 03-06-2012, 08:50 PM
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The everlasting #53

Well guys, after I welded my #53 block 6 years ago, it appears that I have developed a new crack just above the front vertical weld (alongside the nipple for the block heater). Starting to become annoying, filling overflow about every 375-400 miles. Got 225,000 miles on it now, welded it when I had 110,000. I really want to find a good engine out of another dodge, wrecked or something, got one in the area but don't have the funds yet, always a good deal when you don't have the cash. Thought about buying another 24 valve, but seems like a cheaper route if I buy a complete engine then part out the good stuff off of my existing 53. I really don't have the money for another truck, what do you think?
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:10 AM
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i bought a good used SDT bore Mexican block, rings, bearings, gaskets, had it check and honed at a machine shop.

i had less than $2,000 in it.

it was a lot of work, around 30 hours total.

i have a guys number in Arkansas that specializes in Dodge Cummins salvage, i dig up his number for you. he may have a short block, block or engine
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:02 AM
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Seems like swapping out for a non-53 24 valve would be the easiest way to go if you can find one without a gazzillion miles on it.

I know what you mean about all the good deals and no funds!!
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Old 03-07-2012, 02:22 PM
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Until you find a long term solution try some of this. I used one bottle and have had no leaks since. You can put it in the radiator with antifreeze, just make sure you remove enough coolant before poring it in the rad.

http://www.amazon.com/Bars-1109-Liqu...1151542&sr=1-1
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Dane
Until you find a long term solution try some of this. I used one bottle and have had no leaks since. You can put it in the radiator with antifreeze, just make sure you remove enough coolant before poring it in the rad.

http://www.amazon.com/Bars-1109-Liqu...1151542&sr=1-1
I have been using that a couple times a year for a while now, works good for awhile but doesn't last. Slows it down though. I most likely will just find a complete engine and do the swap, the deals are out there but you pretty much got to have the money in hand and pounce on them when they come up.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:39 AM
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heck if it lasted 100,000 miles, weld it again and start saving your hard earned cash hopefully it will last long enough to save cash for one of thoes deals that are out there, but just out of reach
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:33 AM
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If you do use that stuff to seal a leak I strongly suggest bypassing the heater core for a while as it can plug the core up pretty good.
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:25 PM
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you can join the class action law suit and get a whopping $500!!!
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by atc250r
If you do use that stuff to seal a leak I strongly suggest bypassing the heater core for a while as it can plug the core up pretty good.
Yea, I usually flush the heater core after I use any stop leak because it does clog it up.
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DodgeRam24V
you can join the class action law suit and get a whopping $500!!!
I am going to join the lawsuit, not counting on that money though, seems like it takes years to collect when you get in one of those. For right now I will be on the lookout for another engine, I know there will be a good deal eventually. Sometimes I wonder If the truck itself is worth the trouble of changing engines. One thing is for sure, the truck will never outlast the engine.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:26 PM
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Alright guys, saw a engine for sale in the area today. Problem is, it is a #53. Not cracked at the moment 162,000 miles on it. Guy wants $1500 for it minus the turbo, power steering and vacuum pump. Not sure if I should take that risk or not. Would hate to go through all the trouble of changing it and then have it crack. What do you guys think?
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:27 PM
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Also, it has 150lb injectors.
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:02 AM
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personally, I'd keep looking.

that would really suck if that one cracked and have to start all over.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by diggerfan99
Yea, I usually flush the heater core after I use any stop leak because it does clog it up.
I've run 500+ miles since using the stop leak and my heater and defroster are working fine.
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:39 AM
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here's a block for $100
dont know what casting it is.
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