DYI VP44 replacement or have shop do it?
#1
DYI VP44 replacement or have shop do it?
Whos done it themselves? Good idea or bad idea? Any special tools required? How long should it take?
If a shop should do it what is fair for the labor?
If a shop should do it what is fair for the labor?
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: "Farm-vegas" Central Va
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did mine myself, just take you time no specialty tool needed, metric sockets and wrenchs and i used a small puller to get the gear off the pump shaft. the first time it took me about 2.5hrs to get it off, the second time "second pump"it took 1.5hr. the biggest pain was the OEM rear support bracket (You have to have this) was broken, you have to remove the power steering pump to get it off and put the new one back on. got it all back together and the bracket didn't line up, had to take it back apart and move the bracket up a little then it went together fine. do a search for instruction on here, there are the ones i used.
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Hollidaysburg PA
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Wes in TN
Whos done it themselves? Good idea or bad idea? Any special tools required? How long should it take?
If a shop should do it what is fair for the labor?
If a shop should do it what is fair for the labor?
Get a HRVP-44 from Industrial Injection, well worth the extra $$$!!!!
#5
I'm half way into pulling the bad VP44 out. I've got all the lines off, the electrical connector off, and four mounting nuts off the back side of the timing cover. I have crank case vent pulled to expose that nut. Besides the large nut that is accessed from the front of the timing cover what else is holding the injector pump on? I ran out of daylight before I could tear into it any further. I haven't pulled the power stering pump. It doesn't look like I will need to unless I am missing something. What am I missing? A diesel tech I spoke with mentioned aligning a "keyway" facing up so that it wouldn't drop down but didn't bother to clarify what he was talking about. Does anyone have any idea what he meant and what I need to do?
#6
Here is a link about the VP44 and how it works.
Here is the best VP44 Replacement info compiled in one place.
The puller that is mentioned in the second link is without a doubt worth its weight in gold. It is quite the handy gadget. As for the keyway, it is mentioned in the second link as well. I am on good terms with the diesel tech at our local dealer so I just used the crankshaft barring tool to position the keyway at 1200. I had one of my employees watch the keyway with mirror while I cranked.
These two links should get you feeling comfortable about changing it yourself. It's really not that tough.
Here is the best VP44 Replacement info compiled in one place.
The puller that is mentioned in the second link is without a doubt worth its weight in gold. It is quite the handy gadget. As for the keyway, it is mentioned in the second link as well. I am on good terms with the diesel tech at our local dealer so I just used the crankshaft barring tool to position the keyway at 1200. I had one of my employees watch the keyway with mirror while I cranked.
These two links should get you feeling comfortable about changing it yourself. It's really not that tough.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
A 3/4" crow's-foot or crow's-foot-line-wrench is handy. I use th eline wrench version on the injector lines at th epump, and on the head for 5 and 6.
I will echo what others have said, get the keyway to HIGH NOON before you pull the gear off the pump, unless you WANT to pull the timing cover off. Don't ask how I know.
Chris
I will echo what others have said, get the keyway to HIGH NOON before you pull the gear off the pump, unless you WANT to pull the timing cover off. Don't ask how I know.
Chris
#10
Registered User
Once you get the shaft nut off, and the washer, you will be able to see the knotch in the shaft, where the key is. From that point, turn the engine, I suggest using the crankshaft bolt if you don't have a turning tool, to get the key to the 12:00 position.
This is the grear, without the pump shaft through it. It's obvious that you will be able to see the knotch for the key in the gear,
Chris
This is the grear, without the pump shaft through it. It's obvious that you will be able to see the knotch for the key in the gear,
Chris
#12
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Posts: 985
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is all good stuff! I'm doing mine next weekend, so, Wes in TN, I hope you don't mind if I piggy-back on this thread.
I know there's a specific gear puller made for this, but what should be used in the event you don't have that puller?
I know there's a specific gear puller made for this, but what should be used in the event you don't have that puller?
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Laredo, Tx, 7 hours south of Dallas
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would use the alternator nut to turn the motor if you don't have a barring tool.
It's easier, and a little more precise. (It will only turn the motor backwards though!)
Merrick
It's easier, and a little more precise. (It will only turn the motor backwards though!)
Merrick
#15
It wasn't bad at all. I got a tool made to pull the gear from a local diesel shop and it made that part of the job a breeze. The hardest part was wrestling with the injector lines. I ended up having to change the pump out in the dark in ~35 degree weather. Despite that I got the job done in about 5 hours total. Simple job any competent shade tree mechanic can handle.