Died AGAIN
#1
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Died AGAIN
Before I had realized that the fuel gauge was off. That time the truck completely died. (Running one second, engine not running the next.) This time I was doing 65mph, and it lost power and had no throttle response. It stayed running until the rpm's wound down and it stopped. Earlier this morning my girl friend had to give me a jump start, so I thought maybe the alternator. Removed it...had it tested 3 times and it passed 3 times. I'm at a loss here. I'm dreading what it might be....are there any theories?
Thanks,
Rocky
Thanks,
Rocky
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Bump the key without starting & listen to hear the lift pump run. If you don't hear it then your lift pump is DOA. If thats the case I hope you caught it before the injection pump went south. You can also turn the key on & off 3 times then leave it on & check for any codes on the odometer.
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just a point on the alternator being tested 3 times, when it acts up again go check the grids as they can and do stick on, when it does it will draw down the alternator pretty quick, grids suck 90amps each, alt is only 140amp. you can unhook the main wiring to the grids right at the drv side battery, (2 smaller wires joined at one eyelet)
do a search using my user name and key words like "ford starter relay"
do a search using my user name and key words like "ford starter relay"
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So here's where I've got so far.
I swapped out both batteries, and the truck will start. There is, however, zero throttle response and the idle is maybe 300 rpm...ROUGH. I did not hear the hum of the LP...Are there any other ideas with the new input? Still pump(s)? I may just swap them both out, with a package deal through thorougbreddiesel.com. I just don't want to spend the 1300 if it could probably be something else.
I swapped out both batteries, and the truck will start. There is, however, zero throttle response and the idle is maybe 300 rpm...ROUGH. I did not hear the hum of the LP...Are there any other ideas with the new input? Still pump(s)? I may just swap them both out, with a package deal through thorougbreddiesel.com. I just don't want to spend the 1300 if it could probably be something else.
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actually after re-reading your post....
you must verify fuel pressure and pull codes, cause wwithout knowing either one you might as well throw away your money!
And you need to clarify is it a battery going dead issue or a stuck wont start issue, truck wont run well if there is a voltage issue present
you just cant change parts because some guys say that it sounds like what happened to them
BTW a fuel pressure gauge can be installed for cheap (mechanical one) and it is invaluable for diagnostic purposes
you must verify fuel pressure and pull codes, cause wwithout knowing either one you might as well throw away your money!
And you need to clarify is it a battery going dead issue or a stuck wont start issue, truck wont run well if there is a voltage issue present
you just cant change parts because some guys say that it sounds like what happened to them
BTW a fuel pressure gauge can be installed for cheap (mechanical one) and it is invaluable for diagnostic purposes
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I just replaced both batteries...the truck starts but has a really low and rough idle and a dead throttle. The odometer code I pulled up is p1693.
As far as voltage I have plenty of battery and the alternator is good. What I'm not sure of is the voltage regulator fixed to the alternator?
As far as voltage I have plenty of battery and the alternator is good. What I'm not sure of is the voltage regulator fixed to the alternator?