Dealer Says Rearend is Junk
#1
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Thread Starter
Dealer Says Rearend is Junk
I took my 02 to the local Dodge dealer last week because of a vibration at 60MPH and higher. I though it may be a u-joint or carrier bearing but they said I have lost the bearings in the rear-end and possibly the ring and pinion because of a "flat spot" they heard on the test drive. The rearend was serviced at 112,000 with no apparent issues and now has 125,000. The truck has never been chipped and has never towed anything heavier than a fishing boat. The cost will be $600 for labor, $300 for bearings, $450 for a ring and pinion gear and they said $600 for the Limited Slip package it currently has, $1950 for a rebuilt rear-end? First I find it very unusual that the rear-end has no play and no leaks but is "junk" at 125,000 and second $1950 for a rebuilt pickup rear-end seems very high. Could it be something else or has this been an issue with these trucks? What are your thoughts?
John
John
#2
Registered User
My truck also had a vibration at 50 mph and higher. Checked u-joints, tires, etc. Ended up being the driveshaft needed to be balanced. Since I got that done, everything is very smooth...
Get a second opinion from a reputable shop...
Get a second opinion from a reputable shop...
#3
who serviced your rear-end at 112,000, I had my 02' done at a Dodge dealership years ago at about 85,000 and they forgot to put the can of limited slip stuff in, the whole rear end blew up about 10,000 miles later
get the oil tested to see if the additive was added and get a 2nd opinion
get the oil tested to see if the additive was added and get a 2nd opinion
#4
Administrator
I took my 02 to the local Dodge dealer last week because of a vibration at 60MPH and higher. I though it may be a u-joint or carrier bearing but they said I have lost the bearings in the rear-end and possibly the ring and pinion because of a "flat spot" they heard on the test drive. The rearend was serviced at 112,000 with no apparent issues and now has 125,000. The truck has never been chipped and has never towed anything heavier than a fishing boat. The cost will be $600 for labor, $300 for bearings, $450 for a ring and pinion gear and they said $600 for the Limited Slip package it currently has, $1950 for a rebuilt rear-end? First I find it very unusual that the rear-end has no play and no leaks but is "junk" at 125,000 and second $1950 for a rebuilt pickup rear-end seems very high. Could it be something else or has this been an issue with these trucks? What are your thoughts?
John
John
Get it to a reputable mechanic that will not diagnose based upon what they "heard" on a test drive.
If the bearings are junk you will have slop....... Not all Dealerships are rip off artists, but that one sure looks to be that way.
#6
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did they even pull the diff cover to look?? or just base it on a road test? , get a second opinion!. also not adding the additive will NOT blow up a diff.
#7
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If it doesn't have slack in it and runs smooth at lower speed, I doubt that it needs all that. Agree with the second or third opinion, also. Changed rear end oil for a friend, a short time later he had it serviced at a dealer and they told him that the rear end oil needed changing real bad because the oil was brown in color. There might be some reputable dealers but I haven't found one, yet. I have a 2500 with 240K and a 3500 with $420K on them and have never done anything to either rear end except change the oil. The 3500 has been tagged for 33K pounds for years and has really been worked hard. They are really hard to break.
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#8
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DUDE! For GAWD'S sake - find yerself a second opinion as fast as you can! Someone is trying to slime you big time. Of course, just my humble opinion - YMMV.
Cheers! and good luck!
Mike
Cheers! and good luck!
Mike
#9
also not adding the additive will NOT blow up a diff.
#10
that's not what they told me. why do the limited slip clutches require it if it's not needed, if the limited slip functions are not properly lubricated they can seize, come apart, get in the gears and ka-boom, that's how it was explained to me but that was in 2003, I know when they removed the rear diff cover parts fell out at 85,000 and my truck was not abused
I'm with Kennys--I have yet to encounter a competent dealership. My experience is that they're not rip-off artists, or in any way intentionally deceptive (undoubtedly those dealerships are out there though), but instead they seem to have nothing but idiots and morons for employees.
Mike
#11
Registered User
The limited slip lube just keeps it from chattering when taking corners, my truck was ordered and bought from a dealer in 06 and has never been back since, we only have 3 dealers in our small town and they all seem to be crook`s. good luck.
#12
Anybody can have the cover off in their driveway in 10 minutes to confirm or deny this. All you need is a floor jack to troubleshoot the LS. Then I'd consider taking pictures, contact the local BBB, news media (troubleshooter Mike Martino-type) and maybe Chrysler corporate customer relations DURING and AFTER (depending on exactly who's helping expose this fraud how) having a little fun with those dorks while letting them work on the diff.
That is assuming of course it's not the diff, which I seriously doubt it is. It would be priceless to see the look on the service manager's face when they show up with the TV crew.
That is assuming of course it's not the diff, which I seriously doubt it is. It would be priceless to see the look on the service manager's face when they show up with the TV crew.
#13
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Even before removing the diff. cover, raise the rear up on jack stands, remove the drive shaft. Rotate the tires both directions and feel for unusual drag, or clunks, or other noises.
Probably have a drive shaft needing balanced.
I took my drive shaft to the local Inland Truck shop and had them straighten mine and install new u-joints. I think it was the short end they actually replaced the tubing. Total cost less then $200.
Id cautiously figure it out on my own before spending 2G's at a dealership! Can't be that tough.
Probably have a drive shaft needing balanced.
I took my drive shaft to the local Inland Truck shop and had them straighten mine and install new u-joints. I think it was the short end they actually replaced the tubing. Total cost less then $200.
Id cautiously figure it out on my own before spending 2G's at a dealership! Can't be that tough.
#14
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Thread Starter
Found the Vibration
I went through the drivetrain myself and found nothing visibly wrong with any of the u-joints, bearings or slip yokes. I thought I would try removing one drive shaft at a time, go on a test drive and see if the vibration went away. I removed the front drive shaft and sure enough the vibration went away so I put a new CV and U joint in and it runs smooth as silk, so much for a $2000 rearend. The front U joint had no play while installed on the truck but when I removed it and took the caps off the U joint was on its way out.
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Paws