couple of questions by a new diesel owner
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: so. cal.
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
couple of questions by a new diesel owner
Just got an '01 2500, ho, 6 speed. Is it true that I'll need no extra guages if it's stock? I tow a light trailer(6000). Also, if I add an AFE intake filter and 4" exhaust, will I really gain anything without some sort of programer box?
thanks,
steve
thanks,
steve
#2
Adminstrator-ess
Plenty of trucks out there are doing fine with no gauges. I like to know what's going on under the hood but some people don't wanna know. It's ok to make airflow mods without gauges because the EGT's are going to go down with more air. You won't gain any power from freeing up the intake and exhaust. You might notice less turbo lag, and you will pick up a little fuel economy.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: so. cal.
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
with more air and the same injectors, is there a danger of being too lean? Sorry for the dumb questions, not sure if these engines are affected the same as a gasser.
#4
Adminstrator-ess
You can't run a diesel too lean. Engine speed on a diesel is controlled by the amount of fuel injected, so at idle you're looking at like 40:1 A/F ratio. Full power on a stock engine is still up around 20:1. The leaner you run 'em the cooler they run, very different animal from a gasser.
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: outside of Duluth MN
Posts: 1,234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You don't really "need" gages. I would strongly recommend them though. It is possible to suffer some form of meldown even with a stock engine. Try reading this: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
Tom
Tom
Trending Topics
#8
I did. Didn't take long.Took me longer to find my 15mm wrench to get that bottom left mounting stud nut! (I pulled my turbo to the side, covered the turbo inlet with cardboard, and stuffed a shop rag into the manifold.) The cast iron drills easy, just step your way up in increments and you will be fine. When I finished tapping, I used a cardboard guage to set the tip halfway down the port before tightening the t-cop locking nut. I then pulled the rag out and started the truck, which blew out any remaining chips. Stopped it, then bolted the Turbo back in place (after pulling the 'board .) The whole operation took maybe 20 minutes, minus the wrench hunt.
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rising Sun, IN (out in the woods)
Posts: 705
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by zulusafari
I did. Didn't take long.Took me longer to find my 15mm wrench to get that bottom left mounting stud nut! (I pulled my turbo to the side, covered the turbo inlet with cardboard, and stuffed a shop rag into the manifold.) The cast iron drills easy, just step your way up in increments and you will be fine. When I finished tapping, I used a cardboard guage to set the tip halfway down the port before tightening the t-cop locking nut. I then pulled the rag out and started the truck, which blew out any remaining chips. Stopped it, then bolted the Turbo back in place (after pulling the 'board .) The whole operation took maybe 20 minutes, minus the wrench hunt.
I did. Didn't take long.Took me longer to find my 15mm wrench to get that bottom left mounting stud nut! (I pulled my turbo to the side, covered the turbo inlet with cardboard, and stuffed a shop rag into the manifold.) The cast iron drills easy, just step your way up in increments and you will be fine. When I finished tapping, I used a cardboard guage to set the tip halfway down the port before tightening the t-cop locking nut. I then pulled the rag out and started the truck, which blew out any remaining chips. Stopped it, then bolted the Turbo back in place (after pulling the 'board .) The whole operation took maybe 20 minutes, minus the wrench hunt.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Richmond Michigan
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you have the bucks go for the gauges. One thing they won't hurt you. Personally with no bombs I do not have gauges. I tow 6300 lbs regulary and no problems. I think dodge would have put in the gauges if they though they needed them in a stock motor with a 100,000 mile warranty. I will put in my gauges at about 95,000 miles and then do some mild bombs. Just my .02 good luck.
#12
Originally posted by rattle_rattle
I'll bet it sounded strange running it straight out the manifold!
I'll bet it sounded strange running it straight out the manifold!
BE SURE TO SHIELD THE AIR INLET!!! Last thing I wanted was to blow the chips out of the exhaust just to suck them back in through the intercooler!
#13
Registered User
Good move getting the gauges. The 2nd generation HO's are hot-running beasts, EGT wise. Mine would hit 1300 degF pre-turbo EGT stock when towing our previous 13,500 lb 5th wheel! Should you have an intercooler boot leak, a bug-fouled intercooler, etc., you could be in trouble and never know it without a pyrometer.
Rusty
Rusty
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
shortcamp
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
5
11-23-2007 11:11 AM
kramynot2000
Towing and Hauling / RV
7
09-07-2006 08:48 PM
st_pinetree
24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
24
02-06-2004 05:17 PM