Clutch Install Tips??
#1
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Clutch Install Tips??
I'm Preparing to do the clutch in my '01 4x4 w/Nv5600 next week end.
on Monday I'm ordering
SBC 1947-OK
8qts Redline MTF
OEM RearMain Seal, Input Shaft Seal
New Flywheel bolts
...
I have access to a 2K cap. trans Jack
Got the PortaPower to help with the CrossMember Removal
I read the tip about a couple of LONG bolts to aid in lining up the trans,
What size are the bellhousing bolts so I can get them ahead of time?
Which Loctite for the flywheel and pressure plate bolts? (Red ,Blue Ect)
With the big trans jack is it worth it to seperate the T-case?
What other tips and tricks might make this go Quicker or easier? (I've got 1 day to do it in and it's my only transportation at this time)
Is there any other Parts or specialty tools I should have on hand before starting?
ANY advise would be greatly appreciated
on Monday I'm ordering
SBC 1947-OK
8qts Redline MTF
OEM RearMain Seal, Input Shaft Seal
New Flywheel bolts
...
I have access to a 2K cap. trans Jack
Got the PortaPower to help with the CrossMember Removal
I read the tip about a couple of LONG bolts to aid in lining up the trans,
What size are the bellhousing bolts so I can get them ahead of time?
Which Loctite for the flywheel and pressure plate bolts? (Red ,Blue Ect)
With the big trans jack is it worth it to seperate the T-case?
What other tips and tricks might make this go Quicker or easier? (I've got 1 day to do it in and it's my only transportation at this time)
Is there any other Parts or specialty tools I should have on hand before starting?
ANY advise would be greatly appreciated
Last edited by MichRedneck; 01-02-2010 at 12:40 PM. Reason: Added Questions
#2
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just make sure you take your time when puting the trans back in. you dont want to push the pilot bearing through the other side. i dont think it can go all the way out but it can move far enough to cause problems.
#3
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Don't need a porta power.
Jack up the trans, remove the trans mount, then the cross member bolts. Use a dead blow hammer and hit the cross member up, when loose it can be slid back and drop out.
Jack up the trans, remove the trans mount, then the cross member bolts. Use a dead blow hammer and hit the cross member up, when loose it can be slid back and drop out.
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Thanks Scottsjeep....
To Quote the GREAT Late George Carlin "Some people need practical advise"
so what size are those bellhousing bolts...Metric of standard???
I plan to lathe the heads off and mill some wrench flats on to use as long guide pins
To Quote the GREAT Late George Carlin "Some people need practical advise"
so what size are those bellhousing bolts...Metric of standard???
I plan to lathe the heads off and mill some wrench flats on to use as long guide pins
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#8
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If it is all metric stuff and requires a 15mm socket I'd guess 10mm...
do you recall if it looked like fine thread or course?
10mm looks like 3/8
12mm looks like 1/2
do you recall if it looked like fine thread or course?
10mm looks like 3/8
12mm looks like 1/2
#9
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I stabbed mine without that... but seems like a GREAT idea especially with the Tcase hanging of the back.
#10
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The Last Clutch I did was in My 77 CJ5 , that little T150 trans didn't weigh nothin with the Tcase on it...heck I even left the skidplate/pan attached to it
#11
I just did mine. very easy. porta power makes it easy for crossmember. no need for studs; slide in, get the angle correct push and spin output shaft. the t-case is light just remove the bolts and pull it out. any loctite will work. torques to 101 ft. lbs.
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