Mike Holmen

I just did my fronts on my 02. Its pretty easy. Just remove the two torx bolts (T-40). Pryed abit on the top of the caliper. They came out easy. I removed the cap on the master cylinder, and used my trusty 4in C clamp and the old brake pad. I pushed both calipers back in the brake housing. Inserted the two new pads. Cleaned the rotor up with brake clean. The brakes went in easy. Rebolted it up. Did a couple brake applications, for the pads to reset. It took me less than 1/2 hr for both sides of the truck and two beer. I did try to make sure that I didn't do any brake stands for aleast a week to allow the brakes to seat. After 5k, there still working fine. The rotors on my truck where still in good shape and didn't need replacing.

Kimrey

ok since were talking about brake pads, and the 2001 truck is now fixed. Yea I have to admit the brakes on an 01 have to slide in a certain way. But I have a brake question as well. what causes the inside pad to wear out 2 times faster than the outside pad? My insides were wore slam out, and the outsides still had over half the pad left. Anyone else see this with there brakes? If so how can that be fixed? Can you rotate the pads like tires?

Thanks,

Kimrey

CAPTCOOL

Your caliper is sticking. Replace it & this should solve your problem. You will need to replace the caliper on both sides, or at least that is what I have always heard & did.

Mike Holmen

The slider is stuck. Either replace the caliper or get some lube and try freeing up the slider. Mine both sides where almost thru. That the closest I have ever been to metal on metal contact.

Cumminsdude

what about carquest brake pads?

gsdog1

Going to put pads on my rig in the next week or two as well. Still trying to decide NAPA Ceramix, versus NAPA Heavy Duty, versus the Porterfield's that Hohn mentioned.

Looks to me like Auto Zone is out! How about Carquest as Cummins dude is asking?

I may also go with new rotors. Ideas there?

Getting the beast slowed down with the goodies is getting interesting....

Matt

joefarmer

So is anyone running Porterfield's? Hohn, know of anyone that's installed a set?

thx!
brandon.

bws

i too will be doing my brakes and am confused.i called porter-field and got 2 diferent part no#s for there carb/kevlar front pads, ap-859 or ap-821[i think the 821's are correct] ??i have an early 01 [build date 2/00] it looks to have twin pistons in front and drums in the back[shoe pad # 583].can i run 3" pads on the back for my drums[what truck would i use to order these]??i was qouted 99.00 for fronts[pads] and 99.00 for the rears[shoes].hawk doesnt make pads for the later model dodges.[per geno's].i was qouted 170.00 for 2 brembo rotors from tire-rack.

HOHN

This is an important point that should be repeated. Brakes are WEAR ITEMS. If your pads aren't wearing, then the rotors are!! Do NOT buy lifetime pads. The reason lifetime pads are bad is that they are made to last a long time, so they don't have much friction (which you WANT in your brakes), and they tend to eat the rotors to preserve the pads.

How well do you think "lifetime" tires would perform in terms of traction?

Plus, a periodic brake pad change will force you to do brake maintenance, and help the system perform better overall for a long time.

BTW-- I have RACING brake pads from Porterfield on my Nissan, and they have over half the life left in them at 40K miles of hard use. They are NOT designed to be long-wearing. They dust a little (which is good- it means the pads are wearing, as designed; rotors aren't necessarily designed to wear) and they stop HARD. I mean, HUGE braking power.

Can you tell I love the Porterfield brakes??

Justin