Changing Brake pads
02-18-2004, 10:13 PM
#16
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The 2001 and up have dual piston calipers that are in two pieces.
Some say you dont have to remove the unit that holds the pads on but I will tell you why you should.
after removing the piston portion of the caliper you will be left with the 2 pads in the holder. Where the pads slide on the holder they tend to rust and in turn expand causing the pads not to slide very well and in some cases stick causing poor pedal, glazing and in some cases premature pad burn out and rotor warping. Remove that unit as well and pop the stainless steel slides off the holder and file or die grind underneath it to remove any build up of rust or scale then coat with anti seize and reassemble with the pads installed.
When you take those calipers off look at it like a 2 part procedure instead of the old ones where two bolts and the whole unit was sitting in your hand.
If I had a digital Camera i would post some pics but I do not own one of those babys yet.
P.S I am not that good at explaining things in writing so if your scratching your head wondering what I am talking about I will apoligize right up front.
Good Luck
Jason
Some say you dont have to remove the unit that holds the pads on but I will tell you why you should.
after removing the piston portion of the caliper you will be left with the 2 pads in the holder. Where the pads slide on the holder they tend to rust and in turn expand causing the pads not to slide very well and in some cases stick causing poor pedal, glazing and in some cases premature pad burn out and rotor warping. Remove that unit as well and pop the stainless steel slides off the holder and file or die grind underneath it to remove any build up of rust or scale then coat with anti seize and reassemble with the pads installed.
When you take those calipers off look at it like a 2 part procedure instead of the old ones where two bolts and the whole unit was sitting in your hand.
If I had a digital Camera i would post some pics but I do not own one of those babys yet.
P.S I am not that good at explaining things in writing so if your scratching your head wondering what I am talking about I will apoligize right up front.
Good Luck
Jason
02-19-2004, 07:11 AM
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Originally posted by Scubasteve
The 2001 and up have dual piston calipers that are in two pieces.
Some say you dont have to remove the unit that holds the pads on but I will tell you why you should.
after removing the piston portion of the caliper you will be left with the 2 pads in the holder. Where the pads slide on the holder they tend to rust and in turn expand causing the pads not to slide very well and in some cases stick causing poor pedal, glazing and in some cases premature pad burn out and rotor warping. Remove that unit as well and pop the stainless steel slides off the holder and file or die grind underneath it to remove any build up of rust or scale then coat with anti seize and reassemble with the pads installed.
When you take those calipers off look at it like a 2 part procedure instead of the old ones where two bolts and the whole unit was sitting in your hand.
If I had a digital Camera i would post some pics but I do not own one of those babys yet.
P.S I am not that good at explaining things in writing so if your scratching your head wondering what I am talking about I will apoligize right up front.
Good Luck
Jason
The 2001 and up have dual piston calipers that are in two pieces.
Some say you dont have to remove the unit that holds the pads on but I will tell you why you should.
after removing the piston portion of the caliper you will be left with the 2 pads in the holder. Where the pads slide on the holder they tend to rust and in turn expand causing the pads not to slide very well and in some cases stick causing poor pedal, glazing and in some cases premature pad burn out and rotor warping. Remove that unit as well and pop the stainless steel slides off the holder and file or die grind underneath it to remove any build up of rust or scale then coat with anti seize and reassemble with the pads installed.
When you take those calipers off look at it like a 2 part procedure instead of the old ones where two bolts and the whole unit was sitting in your hand.
If I had a digital Camera i would post some pics but I do not own one of those babys yet.
P.S I am not that good at explaining things in writing so if your scratching your head wondering what I am talking about I will apoligize right up front.
Good Luck
Jason
02-19-2004, 09:14 AM
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I assume that my '02 has the later, greater pads as well?
As for pad brands, I'll repeat my spiel about the Porterfield R4S brakes. They are a streetable version of a carbon/kevlar race brake pad. They will yank the fillings from your teeth they stop so hard. They dust a little, but no more than stock setups I have seen.
They don't eat your rotors either.
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/
According to their phone tech, they DO have pads for the dodge rams. Part numbers:
F=ap821
R=ap702
As for pad brands, I'll repeat my spiel about the Porterfield R4S brakes. They are a streetable version of a carbon/kevlar race brake pad. They will yank the fillings from your teeth they stop so hard. They dust a little, but no more than stock setups I have seen.
They don't eat your rotors either.
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/
According to their phone tech, they DO have pads for the dodge rams. Part numbers:
F=ap821
R=ap702
02-19-2004, 12:23 PM
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Ty,
If you still cant get them off, dont get discouraged. I highly recommend this method:
1. Get your roomates truck, and back it up to close to the side you are working on.
2. Set your parking brake, and maybe chain the rear axle to the building.
3. Attach the pulling assembly of your choice to your roomates bumper, and to your caliper.
4. Give him the greenlight and stand back!
Once its off, run up and plug or pinch off the brake line so you dont loose too much fluid.
I havent tried this new method yet, but it looks promising.
Good luck
If you still cant get them off, dont get discouraged. I highly recommend this method:
1. Get your roomates truck, and back it up to close to the side you are working on.
2. Set your parking brake, and maybe chain the rear axle to the building.
3. Attach the pulling assembly of your choice to your roomates bumper, and to your caliper.
4. Give him the greenlight and stand back!
Once its off, run up and plug or pinch off the brake line so you dont loose too much fluid.
I havent tried this new method yet, but it looks promising.
Good luck
02-21-2004, 08:46 PM
#22
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BigBlue,
I found a 2002 and took pics. Turns out it's the same setup as a 2003, except the 2003 does not use 12 point bolt heads.
Comprsss the pistons using the screwdriver/prybar method I described before, but apply pressure to the pad only, not the piston. This way you can compress both pistons at the same time. Once this is done, remove the two 12 point bolts holding the caliper on (circled in pic). Do not remove the allen head bolts as these will break open the caliper and you will have to bleed the system after reassembly.
Follow amartinson's instructions otherwise. I couldn't get a look at the anti-rattle springs. I figured it would be asking too much to have a guy I just met pull a wheel at the diesel pump.
These caliper seems to be just like the brakes on an F250. I've done those before.
Now I'm gonna check into getting some 2001 or up steering knuckles for my truck so I can have them huge brakes.
Chris
I found a 2002 and took pics. Turns out it's the same setup as a 2003, except the 2003 does not use 12 point bolt heads.
Comprsss the pistons using the screwdriver/prybar method I described before, but apply pressure to the pad only, not the piston. This way you can compress both pistons at the same time. Once this is done, remove the two 12 point bolts holding the caliper on (circled in pic). Do not remove the allen head bolts as these will break open the caliper and you will have to bleed the system after reassembly.
Follow amartinson's instructions otherwise. I couldn't get a look at the anti-rattle springs. I figured it would be asking too much to have a guy I just met pull a wheel at the diesel pump.
These caliper seems to be just like the brakes on an F250. I've done those before.
Now I'm gonna check into getting some 2001 or up steering knuckles for my truck so I can have them huge brakes.
Chris
02-23-2004, 02:33 AM
#23
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Hey Stamey. Thanks for the help. I figured it out on my own though (aren't yall proud of me LOL). I removed the torx head screws, pried the pad back a little, bent the metal clips out of the way, and slid the caliper off. Man. Were those brakes shot. On one of them pads, I pulled about a 1/4 of the pad material off of the backing it was so shot. Oh well. I've got lifetime brakes now from O-Reily's so I'm a happy camper now. It's so nice to have brakes again. Thanks for the help everyone.
02-23-2004, 12:41 PM
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Originally posted by crobtex
The second set was Auto Zone's best pads and they went about 30K. They were nowhere near worn out and had about 1/3 of the pad left. I went back with Auto Zone because of the Lifetime Warrenty.
CR
The second set was Auto Zone's best pads and they went about 30K. They were nowhere near worn out and had about 1/3 of the pad left. I went back with Auto Zone because of the Lifetime Warrenty.
CR
I wouldn't ever buy brake pads from Auto Zone, brakes aren't supposed to be lifetime parts.
Buy from NAPA or a real parts shop.
My $.02
02-24-2004, 01:23 AM
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I have a 2001 truck and changed the front breaks. At first it did look tough and I had to force the break pads out. After going to the other side of the truck I took a closer look. If i remember right you tilt out the bottom of the pads out first before you can slide the pad out. The service manual does talk about this issue but you tend to bypass it as you go do the break job. Then you remember the service manual, Ahhh tilt out the lower part of the pad first (I think) and it will slide out. Install is the reverse. The spring clips never get removed. There is a way to get the pads off and on without mutch force.
Good luck....
HOdiesel
Good luck....
HOdiesel
05-10-2004, 09:34 PM
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I recently bought an 02' and was looking at replacing my front brake pads. The main reason I want to replace them is because they make my wheels black all the time. The pads are in good shape, but seem to put out incredible amounts of dust. All it takes is a couple days of driving and my wheels look like they haven't been cleaned in weeks. Does any one know of any place that makes a ceramic pads for a 3/4 ton Dodge? That or is someone currently using some other pad that doesn't make a mess all over the wheels.
Thanks,
02' 2500 QC 4X4, SWB ranch hand front bumper, bully nerf bars, lund bug sheild, AFE Pro Guard 7, Edge Comp, fifth wheel, amsoiled.
Thanks,
02' 2500 QC 4X4, SWB ranch hand front bumper, bully nerf bars, lund bug sheild, AFE Pro Guard 7, Edge Comp, fifth wheel, amsoiled.
05-10-2004, 11:32 PM
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The drivers side front pads on my 2002 wore out prematurely. The passenger side was good as new. I took a dremel wire brush to all the mating parts and then put brake grease on everything including the mounting bolts. No more problem.
05-14-2004, 09:28 PM
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Napa Break Components: Lessons Learned
I did the front brake pads, rear shoes, and front disks - I went on the Cheap with the shoes and the disks - and they SUCK!
...the brakes squeal, grab, buck, and scream! Not sure who I am more ****** at, myself for buying the cheap rotors and shoes, or the Napa guy for assuring me that there was no difference in the "premium" vs. cheap (made in China) stuff
- you guys have any "fix" ideas? I am going to try a de-glazing (cleaning / light sanding) tomorrow on the rotors; Maybe these new rotors need to be turned? There is a hint of grab-release-grab-relase at lower sppeds under light braking...
...the brakes squeal, grab, buck, and scream! Not sure who I am more ****** at, myself for buying the cheap rotors and shoes, or the Napa guy for assuring me that there was no difference in the "premium" vs. cheap (made in China) stuff
- you guys have any "fix" ideas? I am going to try a de-glazing (cleaning / light sanding) tomorrow on the rotors; Maybe these new rotors need to be turned? There is a hint of grab-release-grab-relase at lower sppeds under light braking...
05-14-2004, 09:48 PM
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Don't knock NAPA because you went cheap. I have run several sets of the severe duty pads with pretty good luck. I recently put on the NAPA CERAMIX, & I KICKED MYSELF IN THE ***. I should have put them on a long time ago. The ceramics are the way to go in my opinion. I am very rough on my brakes. I ain't running an EDGE COMP & EDM INJECTOR'S to drive MISS DAISY around. lol!! KNOW WHAT I MEAN?? Compared to my 99, I like the newer style brakes. I changed a friends 2001. If I remember correctly, I just took the caliper off, removed the metal clip, and the pads slid right off. I definetly like not having to disassemble the whole front end to get the rotors off.
