blh1960

I have always been afraid of using the pour-in sealant products. I onced clogged a radiator using the powered product. In a situation like I am in, I feel it is better then parking it. Need the transportation, and Bars I have heard is sometimes used in new cooling systems. Unless something clogs, why would it hurt an engine?

Anyway...I was thinking last night why Cummins has not come out some retrofit kit to fix this problem. Because we are dealing only with a waterjacket casting. Is there some reason why they could not make machined plate with the same contour of the block. Drill holes to relieve the cracks...then drill and tap mounting holes for a sealing plate. We are not talking a large amount of pressure. Would it not be the same as a Thermostat cover? It just seemed like such an easy thing to do.

Brian
Missouri

Dave65

The engine that GM puts in the Trail Blazer?
Can't remember which engine it is,but the plant that builds that engine is here in Flint,when those engines are pressure tested for leaks and one is found they send it off to Bars Leak,NO LIE,instead of fixing it,they send the engines to Bars Leak and they do something to it,and these people who are buying these Trail Blazers are being taken for a huge ride,I have also heard that GM does this with other engines also..

Sorry I like Dale Jarrett

daveg

I guess I'll look at my block while I'm getting intimate with the injector pumps this afternoon.
Regarding the craked block, 1) cavitation can be very abrasive & can "polish" parts right down to nuthin', seen it in marine, construction,& farm applications, mostly.Hope it's not a cummins problem, I've got enough for the moment
2) Has anyone mentioned brazing ? I've used it in place of ark welding when the (preheated) cast iron would run the crack ahead of the welding bead. 3) I'd do the welding or brazing with the engine in place. That might allow the water jacket to be used to help bring the whole block up to near boiling, just before putting a torch to it, 2 actually, 1 to evenly heat the surrounding area while the other welds. Cast iron is like glass, too much heat in one spot & it tends to crack. 4) Drilling the ends is mandatory. I'll bet you could get good results drilling, grinding, CLEANING, and using one of the "newst, space age" epoxies. There are adhesives out there that will take anything. Good luck.

neveragain

Did anyone the liquid steel???? they use it on shafts.Mine has been leaking since new think it is internal. What junk this has been since new.!!!!!!!!!!

redramrider

I used JB weld to repair a plastic gas tank on a backpack blower about 3 years ago, still holding. I'm not sure if it would fix this problem or not but for the money I'd sure give it a try before I spent big bucks welding.

Seems like every time I get on one of these sites something new pops up, almost scary to have any wehicle out of warranty these days. Luckily I have my ol' trusty 86 D250 with a 318 sitting in the yard.

blh1960

Devcon makes a product I might try. Titanium Putty...here is the link.
http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilypr...124.0&catid=16
I do believe it would be worth a try. What do I have to lose. It does not even need to be pretty. I spoke to tech support at Devcon. They claim this should work! He says it has been done! I have not heard of one block 53 owner that has fixed this problem with epoxy. Is there any out there? My neighbor got away with using JBweld on an old Ford Pinto block. Leaking water jacket...crack about 4 inches long. He said it never leaked again. Now...why would it not work?
Is this problem overrated? Sounds like an easy fix to me.

Stamey

Something that you have to consider, and it may not have ever been heard of because few or none of these blocks have been fixed, is cracking again.
NOTE: I am really not trying to scare you, just to discuss the possibilities.
That said, when I first took my truck to the Dodge dealer about my crack, and they "inspected" it, they told me it was also cracked on the left side. I never actually saw this crack or noticed leakage from the left side of the block, so I don't know if they were fibbing or not.
So, if there is any truth to what the dealer said, and the fact that the water jacket wall is thin enough to crack in the first place, it may crack again, albeit not in the same place as you repaired it previously.
I'd like to have an opportunity to repair this crack and see how it holds up. This is a change from my previous point of view, just because now the trucks are getting out of warranty and I'd like to find a fix I can feel confident it, to tell others about.
JB Weld, if it can stand 300 degrees (just for good measure), should work in this case, really. I think I'd do the repair as I have heard about for the International, with holes drilled along the crack and the epoxy pushed into the holes in such a way as it meets on the inside. The drilled holes allow more room for the epoxy to get into the block, mainly, rather than it have it just sticking to the oustide. As for the Pinto case, I guess it is possible for it to work just sticking to the ouside also.
I will do some more research on the International fix I heard about.

Chris

Stamey

More Info:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar497c.htm (see the heading: A STITCH IN TIME SAVES NINE)

http://www.locknstitch.com/

http://www.goodson.com/instr/CR-MANUAL.pdf

http://www.metalocking.com/gallery.php

http://www.metalstitching.com/locking.html (in Illinois)

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...ronpreheat.asp

I'd also be interested in that Muggyweld solution. Perhaps you can contact some of their customers to get a review of the repair that has been in place for a while.

Chris

lifer

I would be willing to weld a 53 block in the truck or if someone has a 53 block engine laying around I can weld it too. I have been a welder most of my life. mugyweld system will work fine. My uncle used to have an engine rebuilding shop in south chicago area for many years and he would use a system similer to the mugyweld system. I welded in a pattern shop for 15 years and am now a union millwright in wisconsin. I have a wisconsin state welding cert. for structural steel but this type of welding is a whole different game and a cert. will mean nothing. I have welded cast iron many times but a water jacket is very thin and thin cast iron is very tricky. If some one else is going to try it do not take any short cuts on the procedure that mugyweld has stated, In fact I would add to it. They recemend a screw be drilled and taped in the middle of the crack I would suggest that it be done every 11/2 inches of crack length and drill a hole at the ends of the crack to keep it from continuing to travel. because of how thin the area is you can not do any stress releaving measures like peening or you will break the casting . To find the very ends of the crack I would suggest that you use magnaflux or some other type of crack locator. If you miss the end of the crack because it was so thin that it could not be seen by the eye the crack will come back. I would also smooth the outer surface of the casting with a sanding disc on a high speed die grinder before checking for the ends of the crack to make it easier to find and weld . I am in northern Wisconsin and am on the road a lot so if someone tries to get me and I don`t respond right away I will get back to you when I get a chance.
I have all the equipment to do the job at your place or mine. I am like most of you and am very busy but I also feel for those that have this problem and how much it would cost to replace the engine. If I had a truck with the 53 block I would not think twice about fixing it I would just do it.
Just to be clear I have not welded one of these blocks. I am saying that I could weld it.