Carter 4601 lift pump?
#17
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Put a 4601 on the frame, back down by the tank, and eliminate any pump in the stock location. Your lift pump problems will disappear. No need for any of the expensive solutions out there.
#18
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Originally posted by mini14
The stock oem part number for the carter lift pump is P74213 not 4601hp..the 4601hp also has a finer mesh sreen inside then the p74213
The stock oem part number for the carter lift pump is P74213 not 4601hp..the 4601hp also has a finer mesh sreen inside then the p74213
#19
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www.summitracing.com sells the crt-4601hp (16-18 psi) they also sell crt-4600hp (6-8 psi). either one can be used as a pusher without problems. The crt-4600hp can only be used as a pusher or helper with oem one. The crt-4601hp can be used as a pusher or replacment for oem lift pump. the crt-4601hp will not work in the stock location without eliminating the banjo bolts.
just click on the link above and it will take you to their web site. They also sell a wire harness kit to go with it, check on same page as pump.
just click on the link above and it will take you to their web site. They also sell a wire harness kit to go with it, check on same page as pump.
#24
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did that harness connect directly to the stock harness at the top of the engine or did you need to do splicing?
I just seen some wires on summit's website, I dont see a pig tail like the stock cummins lp comes with
I just seen some wires on summit's website, I dont see a pig tail like the stock cummins lp comes with
#26
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the 4601 is NOT the oem lift pump. if u want stock pump order it from cummins (they have their own part number) in your region and ask for the harness and 4 new banjo washers.
#27
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4601HP is the same thing as the stock pump, but it has 3/8" NPT threads (larger than the stock threads which are 12x1.5 Metric). It also does not have the Dodge wiring harness on it, instead it has a + and - stud.
All you need to do is cut off the quick connector at the stock lift pump and extend the + wire (yellow, black is obviously ground) back to the pump with some stranded 10, 12 or 14 ga wire.
Better yet, you could use a relay, less voltage drop = more pumping power.
Check out http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/fuelsystem for more details.
All you need to do is cut off the quick connector at the stock lift pump and extend the + wire (yellow, black is obviously ground) back to the pump with some stranded 10, 12 or 14 ga wire.
Better yet, you could use a relay, less voltage drop = more pumping power.
Check out http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/fuelsystem for more details.
#29
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Run the tank low but don't run it dry.
You need to drop the tank - There are 2 bolts in the middle of the truck that hold up the metal band/strap things - The other sides (closer to the driver side ) hook into the truck frame. When you lower it a little you can disconnect the quick disconnect fuel and electrical fittings. Then you can open the top of the tank up with a strap wrench (Chrysler says you need "special tool" for this but its not necessary).
I used my old carter lift pump to drain the rest of the tank after it was off
The bulkhead fitting I used is big and heavy and is 1" in diameter so I drilled a 7/8" hole and thread it into that. The Russell fitting that I am now recommending is a 1/2" hole instead of 1". It is probably a lot lighter too and I think it is lower profile inside (means you can run lower) and outside of the tank (less likely to catch on something)
MLR1 used it and said you can go ahead and drill a 1/2" hole as the diameter of the threads is actually 9/16" ... you might need to enlarge it a little bit over 1/2". Basically drill as small as you can but still have the ability to thread it into the rubber of the tank.
I used some thread sealant goop (not teflone tape) on there and it was fine. The nut on mine loosened a little then it started dripping (a few drops a day). Tightened it back up again and it stopped leaking . I'll have to see what I can do to keep it tight.
Don't forget to seal off the factory suction tube. I used some 3/8" hose with a cap on the end of it.
1 thing - I would say if you go offroad, talk to MLR1 and buy a fuel tank skid plate off of him. I am a little concerned as is and mine is a pavement pounder. If I hit a retread tire on the highway I don't think it would be too pretty.
You need to drop the tank - There are 2 bolts in the middle of the truck that hold up the metal band/strap things - The other sides (closer to the driver side ) hook into the truck frame. When you lower it a little you can disconnect the quick disconnect fuel and electrical fittings. Then you can open the top of the tank up with a strap wrench (Chrysler says you need "special tool" for this but its not necessary).
I used my old carter lift pump to drain the rest of the tank after it was off
The bulkhead fitting I used is big and heavy and is 1" in diameter so I drilled a 7/8" hole and thread it into that. The Russell fitting that I am now recommending is a 1/2" hole instead of 1". It is probably a lot lighter too and I think it is lower profile inside (means you can run lower) and outside of the tank (less likely to catch on something)
MLR1 used it and said you can go ahead and drill a 1/2" hole as the diameter of the threads is actually 9/16" ... you might need to enlarge it a little bit over 1/2". Basically drill as small as you can but still have the ability to thread it into the rubber of the tank.
I used some thread sealant goop (not teflone tape) on there and it was fine. The nut on mine loosened a little then it started dripping (a few drops a day). Tightened it back up again and it stopped leaking . I'll have to see what I can do to keep it tight.
Don't forget to seal off the factory suction tube. I used some 3/8" hose with a cap on the end of it.
1 thing - I would say if you go offroad, talk to MLR1 and buy a fuel tank skid plate off of him. I am a little concerned as is and mine is a pavement pounder. If I hit a retread tire on the highway I don't think it would be too pretty.
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