Guys,

I am very interested in a 2001 3500 5 speed with 56k miles on it, but after reading the VP44 blues on this site wondering if there is truly a way to make these truck reliable. I am willing to go with the Vulcan fuel line and pusher pump and would even consider a FASS system if it will really prevent failure, but it seems that doesn't necessarily do the trick either. Is there a method of making these trucks as reliable as say a 12V or CR truck, or should I keep looking for something else. I like the interior and body style on the 2001 better than the 2003-1005, they dont seem quite as comfortable. But if you are walking down the road leaving your truck that isn't too comfortable either. I would hate to have to leave my 65 Plymouth in a trailer with a dead truck on the side of some interstate. Anyone have confidence that this failure can truly be prevented? I know anything mechanical can fail and all vehicles have problems, but this one seems more extreme than most. Any Opinions on this?

Thanks for any input.

 

Get some gauges fuel/boost/egt in the truck first. And get a better fuel system like the fass setup. And you should be fine. Stuff breaks and electronics fail. But i wouldn't steer away from buying the truck's i love.

 

^^^ What he said ^^^^

I look at vp44's like the front hub bearings, replace every 100-150,000 or so.

It might be just me, but I would drive the '65 to the next exit for help...

 

vp44's willfail! it's just a matter of time. the electronics on went at 181000 miles.... i used 2 cycle oil for most of it's life, but that didn't help the fuel control module.
the rebuilt ones are supposed to be better

 

How good are the Blue Chip pumps, are they really a solution to the problem, or have they been known to die too. They seem to talk a good game on their site, but at that price and only a one year warranty they better be able to back it up.

 

I'll post what I've posted before. All US pump rebuilders use the same Bosch certified pump stands. All pump stands are audited to make sure the pump builders are compiling with what Bosch has set forward with regards to standards and updates. All Bosch certified pump builders will rebuild the pump with all the current updates that come down from Bosch.

I would not spend any more $ than needed to get a good pump from a Bosch certified pump shop. All pumps will have the current mechanical and electronic updates.

I think the only thing you get for your money from Blue Chip is a warranty for a pump with a wire tap with one of his performance boxes, nothing more.

 

I just plan on replacing the IP after 100k like any maintenance item. It's cost per mile is so low at that point it doesen't even count. If the truck is what you want...get it. Just be aware that you'll need $1k for the Ip probably sooner than later. Once it is done with the newest updates you should be able to go a long ways. I went 165k on the original.

If the truck is an auto get the shift kit and you should be ok. If you drive it hard...well you pay to play.

Just get gages, fuel system, a Smarty and 275 injectors and you will have a nice truck with good mpg that will pull as well as any 1 ton on the street and be a blast to drive..

 

I too fear this as well. Would it be wise to buy a truck that just recently had its VP pump replaced?

 

ok the reason that the VP44 is dying is the heat from the pump kills the electronics board which is right on top of the pump. running a fass or walbro pump with a big line kit allows more fuel to be sent to the pump the extra fuel that is being sent back to the tank is helping to keep the vp44 cooler. therefore not over heating the circuit board. but you will still ahve failure in the pump due to wear. kinda like the lift pump on the side of the engine dies due to the vibration of the engine over time.

 

If heat is killing the electronics, has anyone tried adding some sort of heat sink to the top of the pump?

 

its not the electronics---says a rep from Bosch---just poor fuel supply to keep the pump running---maybe failed fuel supply is making them hotter and cooking the electronics, but not the original problem...They told me to make sure to have at least 200lph(liters per hour) at 15 psi at the pump. also a LP that will produce 50 gph at 5 psi to push past the filters as they get dirty. Then we will not have any problems. He also mentioned several people make a replacement filter system that has a LP in it, that is good enough for them. I am currently trying to find such. I think schieds he said has one but dont know the price---also a big one is the small fuel lines---I upgraded mine to 1/2,,,3/8 to a relocated LP and 1/2 from then on and no banjo fittings...also 1/2 line from the filter to the VP44 and is working good.

 

Yes, it's been done. I had one on my old pump. I put it on there because I had the "what can it hurt" attitude.


I have since seen a picture of a vp44 that suggested the electronics are cooled by fuel. It might make better sense to cool the fuel coming from the tank.

 

my electronics failed!

 

I too had an IP die an electronic death. Wouldn't it be great if someone would just sell the circuit board for a couple hundred bucks and we could carry on our way??!!

 

Has anybody put a fuel cooler on their fuel supply line?