cam pos sensor
#1
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cam pos sensor
anyone had a camshaft position sensor go out and what happened when it did? truck just stop running or did it take a while to go bad?
#4
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Originally Posted by turbo51015
My cam sensor went bad this summer. The tach would sometimes work and than not. When the tach didnt work it would stumble on take off.
Same for me. Also, not covered under warranty by my dealer.
Older trucks used a CRANKSHAFT position sensor. Newer use a CAMSHAFT position sensor.
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Mine went out early spring, dealer looked up codes payed $20 for a lunch break check, cheeper than shop rate. Anyway they told me that I had a crank shaft sensor that was bad. Finally found the time to change it wouldn't ya know I had a cam sensor not a crank sensor. fortunatly parts man traded parts with no question. As far as running when sensor was working truck ran fine, when it decided to quit the tack would die causing no signal being sent to ecm not allowing any boost. it still ran but never planned on passing anybody when tack wasn't working. Pretty easy to change if you have smaller hands. (had buddy for that) Another thing it was hard to start sometimes if tack wasnt seeing signal, would die occasionally while drivein. So from my experience I wouldn't waste any time getting it changed IMO
#6
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Originally Posted by trex
anyone had a camshaft position sensor go out and what happened when it did? truck just stop running or did it take a while to go bad?
3 things can happen when a cam(or crank)shaft sensor goes bad.
1. Tach drops to zero. The ECM uses the CPS to get a RPM reading.
2. Alternator output gets shut off. The ECM also uses the CPS sensor to tell if the engine is running or not. If there is no signal it assumes the engine is off. And since the ECM also controls the alternator output it turns that off as well.
3. The ECM also controls the A/C compressor. The ECM will disengage the compressor clutch as it thinks the engine is not running.
The engine will not stop running as the injection pump is gear driven inside the timing gear case.
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Am I hearing this right, you either have a Cam sensor or a Crank sensor but not both? I was under the impression that the 24 valves had both. But I have been wrong before....once.
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#8
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Originally Posted by White00
Am I hearing this right, you either have a Cam sensor or a Crank sensor but not both? I was under the impression that the 24 valves had both. But I have been wrong before....once.
#10
Cam Sensor Code (ME TOO)
Mine is throwing a P O 341 and running with no check lite on the dash.
Question: what is the value for this sensor or where can I go to find same?
I have found most of my sensor problems have been ground related and cleaning same has returned clear codes to this point in time @ 225K.
Corrosion at connection(s) are much cheaper to maintain than throwing money at sensors. I'm glad I don't live in the colder climes.
Question: what is the value for this sensor or where can I go to find same?
I have found most of my sensor problems have been ground related and cleaning same has returned clear codes to this point in time @ 225K.
Corrosion at connection(s) are much cheaper to maintain than throwing money at sensors. I'm glad I don't live in the colder climes.
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No way to check it. I just replaced mine. You have to pull starter to replace crank position sensor. Buy it from Cummins its around 35 bucks, Dodge was double.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#13
I've got a 95 and my tach isn't working. I took it to Kyle Smith (5th place in Diesel Powers west shootout, co-owner of Smith Diesel) and we replaced with another off of a different 12 valve engine block. My tach still isn't working. We set the clearance to about the size of a dime, I read somewhere else it needs to be about the size of a credit card. Could the larger clearance be what's causing it?
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