Brake Question
03-14-2005, 01:33 PM
#16
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Well, in the 10 years I've been doing brakes, never had a problem with air getting in the lines when you compress the piston. It's a sealed system and the only way air gets in is if it's introduced. Yes, heat can cause the fluid to boil but your talking about an extreme amount of heat.
03-14-2005, 03:43 PM
#17
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Im not arguing with you tyler just FYI 
But it really doesnt have to be extrme heat like with your truck you can produce enough heat to make air pockets because of your tire weight and the weight of the truck/motor. For you its easy for 1 tons its easy...For me when i had smaller tires it wasnt as easy. But it doesnt take much to produce somewhat large amount of heat.
But it really doesnt have to be extrme heat like with your truck you can produce enough heat to make air pockets because of your tire weight and the weight of the truck/motor. For you its easy for 1 tons its easy...For me when i had smaller tires it wasnt as easy. But it doesnt take much to produce somewhat large amount of heat.
03-14-2005, 09:32 PM
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So my question is, How do i get rid of the squeeks? My last brake job included turning of (1) rotor, and replacing the other. There were no squeeks for about 2 weeks. Now they squeek bad enough that it's embarrassing when going through the drive ups. I used factory pads this time as well. And i also used "CRC" disc brake quiet.
03-14-2005, 10:13 PM
#23
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Originally posted by 3KrackerRacing
When doing drag racing all night you will have heat Mine had bubbles in it after i would go racing.
When doing drag racing all night you will have heat Mine had bubbles in it after i would go racing.
When my brakes start squeeling, I just hose them down. Makes all the noise go away.
03-16-2005, 07:10 AM
#25
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I really don't think you are going to get air in the system by pushing the calipers back in. Think about it, if this flimsy gasket you are talking about lets air in, don't you think every time you hit the brakes and over 1000psi went to the calipers, you'd have brake fluid spraying everywhere?
Secondly, you mention heat being the cause of air pockets. Yes, maybe, but your talking a LOT of heat. Brake fluid is designed to take plenty of heat without boiling over. Unless you have either really old, water contaminated, or cheap Dollar Tree brake fluid, it's going to hold up to the heat. Think about it, if that were the case, by the end of the first lap, Indy cars and Nascars would have air brakes.
Secondly, you mention heat being the cause of air pockets. Yes, maybe, but your talking a LOT of heat. Brake fluid is designed to take plenty of heat without boiling over. Unless you have either really old, water contaminated, or cheap Dollar Tree brake fluid, it's going to hold up to the heat. Think about it, if that were the case, by the end of the first lap, Indy cars and Nascars would have air brakes.
03-16-2005, 07:31 AM
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About flushing the brakes during my burning brake pad incident 
After changing all the front end brake parts, I flushed the fluid and it was almost black! 
Brakes all flushed, they worked good as new, well they always did hold up. The rotors didnt even warp with the blast for the fire extingusher! 
After changing all the front end brake parts, I flushed the fluid and it was almost black! Brakes all flushed, they worked good as new, well they always did hold up. The rotors didnt even warp with the blast for the fire extingusher!
03-17-2005, 01:20 AM
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Hey Bigblue and anyone else interested I was allways told that if you do change your pads that you should sand the disc's. This is if you are not replaceing them or having them turned. All you do is take some sand paper and sand the disks enough to get rid of the glassy like finsh the disc's have. This will help your new pads break in quickley to your disc's and get rid of that mushy brake feeling that you get when you install new pads. just my two cents.
03-17-2005, 10:13 AM
#29
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I use a disc made for a an angle grinder or power drill made of the same type of material as a green Scotch kitchen scrubby only the next 'grit' courser, brown. Works fast and excellent for removing the glaze, most hardware stores carry them.
03-18-2005, 04:48 PM
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Originally posted by infidel
Since upgrading to GMC 1 ton cylinders (Napa #4637337) three years ago I haven't had to replace any front pads now that the rears are doing their fair share of the work.
Since upgrading to GMC 1 ton cylinders (Napa #4637337) three years ago I haven't had to replace any front pads now that the rears are doing their fair share of the work.
Were the 1ton parts put on the rear of the truck? Mine seem to suck.
OR did the 1ton setup go to all 4 corners?
Thanks