Wow. thanks for the response Phox. I just checked each cylinder numerous times with only 2-3 degrees difference from the hottest to the coldest.

The other 2 scenario's makes sense to me now. Which explains my MPG loss. Is there not a way to correct the timing or reset it?

Since I am back to the cold fuel side of things could this be the lift pump? Or would you go straight to the injector pump? I have not check the LP pressure yet due to lack of gauges. They were suppose to be in last week but are yet to show.

Thankyou,
Sam

 

Back to the cheaper solution, yes, could be the lift pump.
Classic lift pump symptoms are lack of power and surging, not excessive smoke.

More inclined to say the problem resides in the injection pump.
I know of no way to fix one, other than replacement.
Good thing though, they are getting cheaper, it used to be in excess of $1,300 bucks plus installation.
I've heard tell of them being available for around $850.

Assuming you're under 100K miles, there is always the Dealership.
Just ask around for a friendly one.


phox

 

CRACKED MANIFOLD, Im almost positive that's what it is. I have a crack in my exhaust manifold(a big crack) an my turbo is really singin an i know iv been losin alot of power from since iv a had that crack.

 

Phox, thanks for the input. Not what I wanted to hear but thanks for the advise. I will post my future findings.

Texas, thanks for your input. I have checked all visible areas of the manifold but cannot come up with any cracks. Where's your crack? Mine begins at the bottom of my back and ends at the top of my legs. Just kidding, getting late.

Sam

 

I'd think a crack would show up with your IR gun

 

could it be a touchy wastegate? stuck or opening early not delivering the boost to feed the fuel? drove a gmc that had that happen, filled the hills and valleys of rt. 280 from Newark all the way to parsippany. Traffic stayed back a good mile and a half..... Dealer fixed it said that wastegate was stuck

 

I took my leaf blower and attched it the boot that is connected to the intakr horn. I then prceeded to spray all the charge air cooler connections with soapy until I found the leak, worked out better then expected, and cheap too.

 

Still trying other options that my problem could be. Pulled my codes with the edge unplugged and gor 0237 and 1693. Does this mean I have a bad sensor or voltage coming to it too low. If the voltage coming to it is too low how do I increase it or reset it? Where does this voltage come from?

 

I forgot to add that if I have my wastegate blocked off could it have closed partially on its own over time?

Just a thought

 

With your wastegate blocked off, you should get an overboost code, not a low MAP sensor voltage code.
Comp unplugged, totally? so it wasn't connected to the MAP sensor?

I'd say your map sensor is toast then.
Or some seriously dirty/corroded connectors, either on the MAP sensor side, or the ECM side.


phox

 

Where does the voltage to the map sensor come from?

 

The MAP sensor generates the voltage. Your symptoms sound to me like a bad MAP sensor.

The truck's computer relies on the input of the MAP sensor to determine how much fueling to allow. If it's bad, it could either allow too little fuel (low power), or too much (smoke and bad mpg).

The MAP isn't that expensive, so I'd look at that as an option before I went injection pump or lift pump.

jlh

 

Just read'in through hear. It sounds to me like you have a sticking injector. Have you tried cracking the injector lines loose and see'in if there's a difference in the idle. That will usually point to which injector it could be. Just a thought.

 

Thanks for the ideas to all of you. I am going to start with the MAP sensor 1st.

What is the best place to get a complete set-up of gauges. I would like the 3 pillar mount with EGT, Fuel, and Boost. I had a buddy order up some Autometer gauges, but when it all came in today the only fuel press. he could get was a 0-100 psi which shot the whole deal. I would like a setup that matches with chrome bezels. I just want to find someone who knows all the fittings and acc. that I'll need.

Thanks again,
Sam

 

Pulled the MAP sensor today and it was clean as a whistle along with all of the connections. While the sensor was unplugged I turned the swith on and checked the the three wires getting nothing on 2 of them and 5 volts on 1 wire. I think this I read somewhere that the MAP runs off of 5 volts (please verify i am correct). Which brings me to my next question. What voltage should I be getting off of the other 2 wires with the truck running?