symptoms= large puff of black smoke at start-up with another puff of black smoke after accel. in every gear. mpg is down to around 13-15 (used to be 17-18) also at cold start up the engine rpm surges up and down until it warms up. when going thru the gears it seems the turbo is really spinning up high. makes no diff. if the edge box is on or off except the regular increases of power that it generates. truck has 45000 miles on it

tests performed so far=
replaced the IAT sensor
replaced the lower drivers side intercooler boot (no hole though)
replaced fuel filter
cleaned K&N air filter
2 sec on lift pump at switch
20 sec on lift pump at bump

any sugg. will be greatly appreciated

 

Boost leak. Check all the boost boots between the turbo and the intake. It's common for them to get holes worn in them from things rubbing on them or sometimes they just pop off. If you don't find anything it's time to pressure check the whole system.

 

Dave, thanks for the input. Tonight I pulled the boots/pipe from the turbo to the intercooler and everthing still looks new. I just had the drivers side lower replaced because they ten to rub the inner fender. Which is what appeared had happened to mine but it had not yet rubbed a hole in it yet. Anyway, tonight I also pulled the intake piece (that the dipstick is bolted to) just to check the gasket there and also the upper boot which again everything looks ok. Everything I can see as far as the intercooler itself looks ok. Any ideas on an inexpensive way to pressure test? Could this not be a bad injector? What would the next steps be?

Thankyou

 

Put your truck description in your signature...will get you better answers if we know specifics of what you have!
RJ

 

i was wondering about that. thanks for the tip.

 

Only way I know to pressure test system is
-Pull hoses off bottom of turbo and engine air intake (air horn)
-plug one end and pressurize the other to about 20 psi (PVC works well)
-see if it holds
-if not, use soapy water to find leaks.

RJ

 

10-4 what would you check next if that all checks out ok. Just trying to compile me a to do list as I do not have a computer at my shop. I did have the wastegate plug out of the elbow which I re-installed last night and seems I have some power back but still got the black smoke.

 

If you run with the EZ unplugged, do you see any change?
Sometimes the MAP sensor plug contacts get corroded/dirty.
I've seen folks post that spraying the plug contacts with a good contact cleaner sometimes helps.

 

Same with ez plugged up or not. No change. I will check out the MAP sensor and plugs. Have not seen nor had problems with corrosion thank God we don't have alot of salt on the roads down here. I have not yet cleaned the MAP sensor yet so I'll add that to my list of things to do next.

Man this DTR is addictive.

 

OK. I finally got back to this problem (after I was down last week from the freakin vacuum pump going out). Tonight I put 22 PSI on the system from the 1st rubber boot on the turbo side to the rubber boot on the intake horn. The system held the 22 psi for 2-3 mins with no change.

Why would no one want to lean towards an injector problem here. Someone mentioned to me the lift pump. But, with the black smoke puff at startup and the black smoke at initial throttle and heavy throttle I don't think my problem is getting enough fuel. Not to mention my loss of MPG.

Thanks in advance for anyone with that little key secret laying out there.

Sam

 

have you checked for any codes in the computer???

 

One way i have checked to see how each cylinder is operating is test exhaust temp at start up on each exhaust port close to the flange on the exhaust manifold. Make sure if you use hand held infrared pyro its of good quality. You can get these at most preformance shops like Jegs or Summit.

 

I checked the codes twice but nothing. Does the Edge box need to be unplugged? I heard you might not get a correct reading with it on. Also when checking the codes with the reader is it correct that you do not start the engine?

 

Good idea More Power. I have an infrared gun, I am going to check now. Back in a few.
Thanks for the tip

 

You just don't hear about bad injectors in the late 2nd gen's that often, thus it doesn't come to mind right away.

Fords and 3rd gens however.


We also tend to concentrate on the quick, easy, and inexpensive solutions first.

Easy way to check for a bad/leaky injector is do a cylinder temperature comparison.
Run the engine to get the temp up a bit and shoot a lazer thermometer at the exhaust manifold at each cylinder.
You shouldn't see a variation of more than 10 degrees.

If one is a whole lot cooler, you have a stuck closed or almost closed injector,
if one is hotter, you have a stuck open or leaky injector.

Another scenario is the injection pump.
If it isn't pumping the proper pressure to one or more injectors, or too much pressure, it would cause that injector to open at the wrong time, or not at all
(but that wouldn't make excessive smoke)
Or if the timing has slipped (electronic, no adjustment) and the injectors are firing at the wrong time you would have fuel that isn't burning all the way, hence the black smoke.

Both these would fall into the time consuming and expensive to fix category,
unless you luck out and manage to get it covered under the 100,000 mile engine warranty.


phox

Dang, Morepower beat me to it, that's what I get for typing a big response