Batteries, does this make sense????
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Batteries, does this make sense????
I've been going nuts trying to figure out my LP problems. Yesterday I replaced the tank module, thought I'd fixed it, but still having problems.
Ok, here goes: I noticed, when I start the truck up first thing, the volt meter starts at around 10 and slowly brings itself up to 14. My fuel pressure is a little lower than normal at this time, 11-12. I run the truck and the volt meter goes slightly above 14 and the fuel pressure idles at between 13-14, which is normal. If I let her idle for five minutes or so, the fuel pressure drops to around 10 and the volt meter drops off too, around 12-13. Once I take her for a run, the fuel pressure and volt meter return to normal.
Does anyone think there's a direct correlation between the two? Sounds like I need batteries?
Ok, here goes: I noticed, when I start the truck up first thing, the volt meter starts at around 10 and slowly brings itself up to 14. My fuel pressure is a little lower than normal at this time, 11-12. I run the truck and the volt meter goes slightly above 14 and the fuel pressure idles at between 13-14, which is normal. If I let her idle for five minutes or so, the fuel pressure drops to around 10 and the volt meter drops off too, around 12-13. Once I take her for a run, the fuel pressure and volt meter return to normal.
Does anyone think there's a direct correlation between the two? Sounds like I need batteries?
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Whats the temp. outside when it happens? Its not the grid heaters coming on and off is it? If it is below 60*-65* the heaters work. And they shut off after you go 15-20 mph.
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I wish it was the grid heaters, but it's not.
Maybe it's just another crappy Carter with wishful thinking by its owner ... guess I'm in denial!
Maybe it's just another crappy Carter with wishful thinking by its owner ... guess I'm in denial!
#5
Its more common than people admit to have lift pump/injection pump problems due to undervoltage / bad batteries.
Replace your batteries. You should fire up the truck and be at 14v near instantly.
Replace your batteries. You should fire up the truck and be at 14v near instantly.
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Originally Posted by Timmay2
Its more common than people admit to have lift pump/injection pump problems due to undervoltage / bad batteries.
Replace your batteries. You should fire up the truck and be at 14v near instantly.
Replace your batteries. You should fire up the truck and be at 14v near instantly.
I'm weighing the two options; $200 for new batteries or $200 for a Walbro and regulator? I could purchase the Walbro and be in the same boat ... what do you think?
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Originally Posted by 99 cummins
Piper, what are we doin, playin follow the leader her.
#9
Originally Posted by piperca
The truck starts in less than a second ... one quick crank and she's running. Could this still be an issue, or should I be looking elsewhere?
I'm weighing the two options; $200 for new batteries or $200 for a Walbro and regulator? I could purchase the Walbro and be in the same boat ... what do you think?
I'm weighing the two options; $200 for new batteries or $200 for a Walbro and regulator? I could purchase the Walbro and be in the same boat ... what do you think?
Slow to come up from a low voltage is a sure sign of weak batteries... if theres a heavy draw on the electrical system it could cause it to rise slower than normal.. but youre already starting too low w/ 10v.
Do you have a voltmeter to test them directly instead of the dash gauge?
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Yes, they are sitting at 12.44 and 12.49 and that's after sitting overnight.
I turned the key on and watched the gauge. The needle came up to the first line between 8 and 14, which I was estimating as 10, and sat there for about 15-20 seconds, then it slowly rose to mid way between that line and 14 ... probably around 12+ volts. I think I need to get them load tested before I throw money away on new batteries.
If I do need to do batteries, I was looking at the Optima red top 34's; sears have them for $129 ... cheapest I can find. I have always been an Insterstate battery customer, but, since doing some reading, it sounds like the Optimas are the way to go ... are they?
I turned the key on and watched the gauge. The needle came up to the first line between 8 and 14, which I was estimating as 10, and sat there for about 15-20 seconds, then it slowly rose to mid way between that line and 14 ... probably around 12+ volts. I think I need to get them load tested before I throw money away on new batteries.
If I do need to do batteries, I was looking at the Optima red top 34's; sears have them for $129 ... cheapest I can find. I have always been an Insterstate battery customer, but, since doing some reading, it sounds like the Optimas are the way to go ... are they?
#13
Optima batteries are the greatest thing on the market when you get good ones. The problem is they seem to have some quality control issues, there are alot of bad ones being returned for warranty. Even though the warranties are honored, having a dual battery system creates a problem for us when only one battery is bad because when we change batteries we need both changed out and they don't cover that.
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