Installed PDR Turbo hx35 16 and now the turbo wants to bark. I also went with the TST Comp3 and edgeEZ, could this be a factor in the turbo making noise so easy. would only bark occasionaly with stk turbo and edge comp box. Any suggestions

 

Call PDR and explain to them what's going on--they'll help out.

 

How many PSI of boost? My stock HX-35 starting barking when boost got over 25 psi. With just the PM3 I could get 35 psi of boost out of it.

Chris

 

My boost is above 25psi. It is more in the 32 psi range. The box does seem to run smoother at the 4 and under levels. Thanks for the info. I will start adjusting from there and see if it improves.

 

try adjusting your driving style .. I had to let off easy on the throttle when running WOT and then swithing gears .............. I'm running 38lb on my stock hx35 with with rv275's and a comp .............if you let off too quick at 38lb it barks

 

Your turbo will not if you dont let off the accelerator fast like get it and get out of it..Mine never barks unless I want it to and it makes around 50psi pulling and 40-46psi just driving or I mean getting on it but if I just let out of it will bark bad...

 

I couldn't get my turbo to bark when I had the Comp on. I've got the stock HY35/9cm wastegate.

 

When I was running my comp box with the stk turbo I could bark the turbo when letting off the go pedal quickly. Now its any let up on the go pedal. Its is almost a flutter. I am not getting off the pedal fast and it wants to bark especially with the pm3 on higher settings.

 

I think something to do with a coompression stall causes a turbo to bark.

 

Hate to sound stupid, but what is turbobark??

 

correct me if i'm wrong, But if you ever been to the tractor pulls. It's the sound the turbo makes right after they let off of the pull. I would think it has something to do with the exhaust pressure letting off so fast and the boost pressure still up.

 

Imagine the compressor wheel of your turbo, and every blade is representing an airplane wing.

What turbo bark is..

The stalling of the blades in the air flow. Just like an airplane wing will stall in mid air, and allow the plane to fall, a similar effect is happening here, but instead of the blades loosing speed, the air pushing back out of the turbo is greater, than the force of teh blades pulling in the air, and it causes a different stall. This rushing of air out of the turbo compressor, and past the compresor wheel is what gives you the "WOOF" sound. This happens 2-3 times (or more depending the degree of "bark"), and the repetiton of the turbo blades "stalling" is what makes it sound like "bark". (WOOF-WOOF-WOOF) Depending at what RPM you are running, and how much boost, will depend on the severity of the bark.

Low RPM, High Boost, and quickly removing the load will allow some pretty loud bark.

The turbo itself is not actually reversing as usually believed, but it is the air trying to escape out of the turbo. (not nessacarily is escaping)

Some turbo's are more prone to barking than others. This has to do with many factors, compressor wheel size, exhaust wheel size, exhaust housing, compressor housing, RPM, Load, and even Cam and Head arrangements.

Big injectors, and a heavy fueling box, forcing the turbo to spool up at low RPM and then shifting gears at low RPM is a recipe for turbo bark.

It's easy to prevent turbo bark. Change your driving style.

I could make my HX-35/12 bark on my 3-4, 4-5 and, 5-6 shifts easily, and everytime if I wanted to.

All I have to do, is, get hard in the fuel (lots of throttle),, build 20PSI before 1,800RPM, and let go of the throttle, and push in the clutch, and I had turbo bark.

Automatic trucks,, if you dare, build up 15-20PSI boost in gear while stopped (Fuel+Brakes so you don't move) then let go of the throttle, and you should be able to bark your turbo. (disclaimer,, research your options, and get to know how strong your auto tranny is before doing this "experiment". Not all Auto's can survive 20PSI in gear without moving.)

The way to keep from barking the turbo? Don't release the load from the motor so quickly.

When driving, watch your boost climb from 0 to 25PSI, (in gear) then let if fall back to 15 or less PSI before shifting gears or letting off the throttle. The less boost you have when you push in the clutch, change gears, or remove the load from the motor, the less likely you are to bark a turbo. (or for Auto trucks, the less bosst yo uhave during a shift. Many Auto trucks experiance turbo bark when shifting into O.D. from 3rd gear with the TCC locked)

Barking a turbo can be very serious, as it unloads the compresor wheel momentarily. This shocks the shaft in the turbo, and over time can weaken it. Some people have blown up turbos on the first bark. Modified turbo's are much less likely to break from barking. Some people even claim that barking a turbo is in no way harmfull to the turbo. I beg to differ. Although you may not see the effects of it now, or ever, just like BOMBing our trucks will wear out the motor faster, barking a turbo will wear it out faster.

If you have a motor capable of 500,000 miles, and BOMB it, reducing it's life by 25%, that means you have 375,000 miels on the motor. A mileage most of us will never see.

If you have a turbo, capable of 10,000 hours, and you bark it everyday, removing 25% of it's life, you will still see 7,500 hours.
(That would be 375,000 miles at 50MPH)

It's easy to see how some people can say that barking a turbo is harmless. I don't think many of us who do bark turbo's ever get 7,500 hours out of a turbo before doing a rebuild on the turbo, or just changing it for something different.

Merrick