Banjo Bolt Question?
02-12-2005, 05:47 PM
#1
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Banjo Bolt Question?
I will be changing my lift pump soon. Do the banjo bolts on the fuel canister and the lift pump use the same washers? I have the cummins part # for the washers for the lift pump. What are the #'s for the fuel canister's banjo bolt washers? I want to pick up some spares before I start. I remember someone said that some of the washers look the same but will leak air since they are the wrong size.
Thanks,
Randy
Thanks,
Randy
02-12-2005, 06:46 PM
#3
Administrator
They are all the same size, well same threads and bolt head that is. The one going into the VP44 has a test port on it so you will need a deep socket.
The washers are all the same too, however they are considered "crush" washers. They way they seal is they form fit to the mating surfaces. They deform easy to do this, which is also why they shouldn't be re-used. Some people do but I don't. Considering that a pack of 2 washers costs less than a dollar its better to put new ones in. You will need 10 washers.
I also reccomend calling Geno's Garage and getting the hi-flow banjos. $35 for the whole set of 5 with new washers. Becareful when dealing with the bolts as they are made of mild steel. They can't take a lot of torque. If you over-torque the bolt they will shear real easy. Click here for a pic of what happens when you over torque.
My advice to you when installing banjos back in, put them in by hand and hand tighten them. Gently tighten them with a socket wrench. If they leak when running then tighten a little bit more.
Good luck.
The washers are all the same too, however they are considered "crush" washers. They way they seal is they form fit to the mating surfaces. They deform easy to do this, which is also why they shouldn't be re-used. Some people do but I don't. Considering that a pack of 2 washers costs less than a dollar its better to put new ones in. You will need 10 washers.
I also reccomend calling Geno's Garage and getting the hi-flow banjos. $35 for the whole set of 5 with new washers. Becareful when dealing with the bolts as they are made of mild steel. They can't take a lot of torque. If you over-torque the bolt they will shear real easy. Click here for a pic of what happens when you over torque.
My advice to you when installing banjos back in, put them in by hand and hand tighten them. Gently tighten them with a socket wrench. If they leak when running then tighten a little bit more.
Good luck.
02-13-2005, 08:42 AM
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Thanks for all the advice. I have a torque wrench and found the torque settings so that should not be a problem. I will probably wait and change to the hi flow bolts later.
Randy
Randy
02-13-2005, 10:22 AM
#6
Top's Younger Twin
If you are using a banjo bolt that has larger inlets, I strongly suggest you do not torque to 18.
They are weaker by design. On the stock bolts...18 is the number.
Scotty
They are weaker by design. On the stock bolts...18 is the number.
Scotty
02-13-2005, 11:05 AM
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Skip the over sized banjos and go for the MaxFlow kit that converts from banjo fittings to an-6 or an-8 fittings. I did it both ways and on my 02 the banjos did not help at all. The stock fuel line between the lp and the fuel filter housing looks to be about an 1/8" inside diameter at the banjo fiiting (not the bolt). Bigger banjos won't help this restriction. I installed the MaxFlow kit and the pressure stays up no matter how hard I'm on it. Minimum before MaxFlow 4-5 psi @ wot, minimum after @ wot 10 psi. You decide! 
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02-13-2005, 11:07 AM
#8
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I checked the instructions that came from Geno's Garage and they state "18 ft/lbs". You can go less and may not have a leak, but I was just reporting what came with the banjo bolts I ordered from Geno's.
02-13-2005, 12:47 PM
#9
Administrator
mkubacak, I ordered the Geno's bolts and saw the max torque reading too. So I set my clicker type torque wrench to 16 to be on the safe side. Wrench never clicked and I ended up with a sheared bolt.
02-13-2005, 01:16 PM
#10
Registered User
Did you tell them?
How long has it been since you had the torque wrench checked for accuracy? Did you clean the threads in the hole? I am not doubting you, just looking at the variables involved.
I went back and looked at your picture of the sheared bolt. Did it look like there was some unusual porosity? Is it possible that it was just a bad bolt?
Once again, not trying to get in an argument, as since I have read this, I will be especially careful the next time I am working on any of these fasteners. Thank you for the advise.
How long has it been since you had the torque wrench checked for accuracy? Did you clean the threads in the hole? I am not doubting you, just looking at the variables involved.
I went back and looked at your picture of the sheared bolt. Did it look like there was some unusual porosity? Is it possible that it was just a bad bolt?
Once again, not trying to get in an argument, as since I have read this, I will be especially careful the next time I am working on any of these fasteners. Thank you for the advise.
02-13-2005, 02:38 PM
#11
Administrator
I did tell Genos when I called to buy a new tapped bolt. My torque wrench my be a little off which is also why I set it to 16 lbs. Thread hole was cleaned and the broken bolt threaded in by hand very easy.
I looked at the bolt under a magnifying glass there is a spot on it in the sheared part that looks funny. Looks slightly porous by looking at the sheared part, doesn't look smooth. Looks more ragged and the surfaceof the sheared part look like fine sandpaper (best I can describe it).
I looked at the bolt under a magnifying glass there is a spot on it in the sheared part that looks funny. Looks slightly porous by looking at the sheared part, doesn't look smooth. Looks more ragged and the surfaceof the sheared part look like fine sandpaper (best I can describe it).
02-13-2005, 07:56 PM
#13
Administrator
Yes, I did buy it. Figured it would be easier to buy the bolt than hash it out over a free one. Especcially since I don't have much faith in my torque wrench. I need to get one in inch-lbs.
