Installed Don M's Pro/Sportsman Valve Springs.
Bgt new valve seals, just in case needed... and they were!
I was shocked at the condition of some...these were the worst... and this is only 106,000 miles??
Anyone else seen this kind of wear?


RJ
Note: Was moved here from Compitition Forum. Don't know why???

 

Thats absolutely terrible.
How often do you change your oil? What kind of filters?

 

Are they cooked? Hard and brittle?

 

I'll let you know in a few weeks what mine looked like.

 

I use Fleetguard filters and change synthetic oil, 15w-40, every 5,000 miles (only cause I'm in the oil business). I'm confident that is not the reason!

GPS - not cooked or hard. Internal green 'sleeve' is not brittle... just torn up???

As best I can recall...the worst seals came from the exhaust side, but I did not keep track as well as I now wish I had. Only 6 are like these.... another 6 are brand new looking....the remaining 12 are ok - what I would call normal wear!

I have had some feedback from members that 24v's are harder on valve seals than 12 valves... but can't say from personal experience. Never heard or read anything on the subject..... Anyone know?

RJ

 

I've been told that they are harder on guides for sure.

 

I think we need more input before over reacting. Mine may be a unique case. Anyone working on their 24v head needs to report. Mike, please report on your.
I have been as high as 3800 rpm on a dyno, one time by accident.... it may be that simple?
Maybe some damage was done when firerings were installed? Would like to hear from as many as possible.

RJ

 

I'll be sure and pay close attention when I tear down my old head. The head that is being ported was torn down by the machine shop and they pitched the seals. But the guides were bad.

 

[QUOTE=rjohnson;1129926]
Anyone else seen this kind of wear?

Yes, I've seen this. Your valve guides are likely VERY loose too. Most hp twin users don't even bother putting the seals on because they don't stay. Below is a excerpt from a loooong post (by me) in the 3rd Gen. section on the subject valve seals, guide wear with an exhaust brake component:

..............What I do know is that I've personally seen a high number of valve guide and valve seal failures on 2nd and 3rd Gen. 24 valve heads. None of the ones I'll mention had an exhaust brake installed but all had been modified for horsepower. A low mileage '06 with only an aftermarket air filter and CLDL charred and melted the exhaust valve seals and blew some of the intakes off. (The piston may be oil cooled but think how hot the exhaust valve stem gets while overfueled) Several streets driven, sled pullers, with aftermarket singles had worn out valve guides at ~20,000 miles. Most pulled their heads due to a blown head gasket, wanting to oring the head or broken injector tip damage. I thought it was common knowledge that with high boost twin turbos you didn't bother to install/run valve seals simply because they failed?? Valve float is very common on 24V engines at boost pressures over 40lbs or with high rpm/drive pressures. It's enlightening to measure drive pressures; I've seen 75 lbs on a stock turbo with nothing more then a TST CR. I've seen valve/piston imprints on stock turbo trucks. Fortunately the valves don’t seem to mind! Some twin turbos will run more then 1 - 1 backpressure at higher boost levels and the valves will bounce on the seat even with aftermarket springs which exposes the valve guides/seals to way more pressure and heat then they are designed.

........... I haven't pulled the head on my third Gen but I wouldn't expect my valve guides to be good for 100,000 miles, even if the engine were stock, with or without a brake. The 24V valve guides are tiny and the rocker arm/cross over/valve geometry is so poor, compared with most modern engines, (or a 12V CTD) that I think we'll just have to live with some wear issues.....?

 

The 3800rpm did not do that.

 

Thanks guys! Roger - Great read!

RJ

 

RJ...... I have changed the seals in my truck 3 times so far. Look exactly as yours do. Only difference is my rig only has 36K on it. When I start to see a lot of blue smoke or smell oil at idle it's time to change.

Fred

 

Fred,
Sounds like a stupid question:
How do you actually remove the seal and install the new one?

 

Pretty easy actually, after you remove the valvesprings you can get at them with needle nose pliers, or something small like that. And they usually pull off without a fight, when putting them on I use a socket of the same diameter of the case of the seal and tap lightly. You can hear and feel when they are seated.

Fred

 

Try the seals for the 3rd gen trucks. They have a foot on them that fits under the valvespring and holds them down. Works great on high HP trucks!

Doug Smith