bad injectors relate to heating problem?
08-15-2004, 05:44 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
bad injectors relate to heating problem?
I've got a water heating problem. Definately worst when pulling a load, but also can get warm if running empty and a steep hill.
I've tried almost everything- thermostats; pulling rad, and cleaning external fins(which seemed to help a bit); water pump; etc,etc.
I'm going to try cleaning the a/c rad, and intercooler tomorrow, in the hopes that maybe I'm not getting air through them, and then to the cooling rad. I sure do get a lot of bugs and debris in front of the cooling rad, and the other 2 are relatively clean. Telling me that the air is getting sucked in from the space between the rads.
But here is my main question. I'm sure my injectors are toast. With the miles on them, they can't be spraying well. I have noticed a drop in truck performance, and new injectors will be on their way soon. But can bad injectors give me a heating problem, too??
I've tried almost everything- thermostats; pulling rad, and cleaning external fins(which seemed to help a bit); water pump; etc,etc.
I'm going to try cleaning the a/c rad, and intercooler tomorrow, in the hopes that maybe I'm not getting air through them, and then to the cooling rad. I sure do get a lot of bugs and debris in front of the cooling rad, and the other 2 are relatively clean. Telling me that the air is getting sucked in from the space between the rads.
But here is my main question. I'm sure my injectors are toast. With the miles on them, they can't be spraying well. I have noticed a drop in truck performance, and new injectors will be on their way soon. But can bad injectors give me a heating problem, too??
08-15-2004, 05:52 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Battle Creek Michigan
Posts: 1,686
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
have your radiator checked for flo. i just lost an engine because (at least partially) of restricrted flo. they found a 35% restriction in mine and i had just recently had it power flushed and new fluid installed my dodge and it went undetected.
08-16-2004, 11:22 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: NE Pa mountains
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How many miles on the injectors? stock? How many miles with the comp on what level?and how hot is it running empty/towing? Do you see any different temp. with box turned off, no fueling, no timing? Also, does temp. come down when fan clutch engages?
Brakes aren't draging?
What Herb said, be carefull !
Brakes aren't draging?
What Herb said, be carefull !
08-16-2004, 11:47 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A friend of mine just came back from a trip to Oregon with his 5th wheel and his 2000 ctd. He said he had a similar problem with overheating on hills and such. He took it to a shop and they decided the rad was so plugged with bugs and stuff (truck came from Alberta where they grow a lot of grasshoppers) that it couldn't do its job anymore. They pulled it, gave it a soak, and blew it out and the problem was solved. Apparently the mechanic helping him said they see it all the time.
Trending Topics
08-19-2004, 04:37 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If an injector is bad, the other 5 cylinders will have to work that much harder and the motor will heat up more. Or atleast that's what I would think would happen if it were an injector.
Just my $.02 worth of info.
Just my $.02 worth of info.
08-19-2004, 05:32 PM
#9
Registered User
I learned a lesson the hard way. The temperature sensor is above the thermostat and only measures the temperature of the water leaving the engine after the thermostat. If there is a problem where the engine is heating and the thermostat is not open or only partially, the engine temperature is not registered. I mechanical gage is needed, it will take a gage with a 96 inch capalary tube. It needs to go in the front area of the engine, plenty of plugs to accomplish this.
On the other hand, I would not move the sensor as it may screw up the electronic ECM programming. Another thing to think about is that Cummins made some bad original installation thermostates that overheated on pull. My '99 had one of them and the engine cooled a lot by changing the thermostat. For those who have followed my experiences, this has nothing to do with the bad one I got from Cummins.
As I found out during my engine problems, the engine can overheat very bad and the sensor may not pick it up if the circulation is not good.
Pick up a piece of nylon screen, hang it down the front of the radiator assy, cut some holes for the hood bumpers and hood latch, it will hang there and protect the radiator. I have no heat problems with the screen on there.
Another problem with the radiator plugging that has not been mentioned, the breather in the front of the engine will allow oil to be sucked up into the radiator and will plug the lower portion of it. A breather extention getting it away from the radiator is the only cure. My truck had approximately 1/3 of the radiator plugged due to oil contamination after over 200,000 and part of that was with the extention. Extend the tube down at least past the front axle to cure it.
Mine is within 2 inches of the ground which works really good except for one thing, everyone is always telling me I have something hanging from the bottom of the truck.
On the other hand, I would not move the sensor as it may screw up the electronic ECM programming. Another thing to think about is that Cummins made some bad original installation thermostates that overheated on pull. My '99 had one of them and the engine cooled a lot by changing the thermostat. For those who have followed my experiences, this has nothing to do with the bad one I got from Cummins.
As I found out during my engine problems, the engine can overheat very bad and the sensor may not pick it up if the circulation is not good.
Pick up a piece of nylon screen, hang it down the front of the radiator assy, cut some holes for the hood bumpers and hood latch, it will hang there and protect the radiator. I have no heat problems with the screen on there.
Another problem with the radiator plugging that has not been mentioned, the breather in the front of the engine will allow oil to be sucked up into the radiator and will plug the lower portion of it. A breather extention getting it away from the radiator is the only cure. My truck had approximately 1/3 of the radiator plugged due to oil contamination after over 200,000 and part of that was with the extention. Extend the tube down at least past the front axle to cure it.
Mine is within 2 inches of the ground which works really good except for one thing, everyone is always telling me I have something hanging from the bottom of the truck.
08-21-2004, 09:47 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the replys!
Got her fixed up, though. Soaked the a/c rad, and intercooler rad, with a good degreaser, then spent about 5 bucks at the car wash, washing them out.
As with the cooling rad, a real eye opener. Just by looking at them, they looked clean, but amazing what came out of them at the car wash.
Now, I really have to work at it to get the fan clutch to even cut in!!
Got her fixed up, though. Soaked the a/c rad, and intercooler rad, with a good degreaser, then spent about 5 bucks at the car wash, washing them out.
As with the cooling rad, a real eye opener. Just by looking at them, they looked clean, but amazing what came out of them at the car wash.
Now, I really have to work at it to get the fan clutch to even cut in!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RonP
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
12
02-24-2006 02:12 PM