BuckBoardDriver

Everything I have read says to change the tranny oil when it is hot. Why would that be? My 'baby' is the third vehicle in a 2 driver family and sits for days at a time. When I fire her up, it always takes a bit for the fluid to get pumped back into the TC and I suppose the VB.<br><br>Seems to me it would be best to drain it after a few days since all of the fluid has naturally drained out of those parts. <br><br>Would it be possible to open her up and just let it sit for a couple of days to drain the cooler instead of loosening a line and pumping the fluid out?

Stamey

The theory behind the &quot;let it warm up&quot;, I believe, is to get the dirt and particulate matter that might be floating around in there elevated in the fluid so it drains out when you change the fluid.<br>Most people don't worry about draining the cooler or the convertor. This would be considered a &quot;flush&quot;. I did loosen my VB a little to get the fluid it trapped out. That may have allowed the TC fluid to get out easier, I'm not sure. It did take a few more quarts than called for after I let the VB drain though.<br><br>Chris

BuckBoardDriver

I guess what I want to do is a flush. I am going to change to Amsoil so I would think that I need to get all of the old out.<br><br>Once I get this chore done, then I will be 'Amsoiled front to rear'.

Stamey

When I switched to Amsoil I just did what I said in the previous post. To me, it's gonna be a real pain to try and drain all of that. You should, however, be able to take both lines loose, and if you take them loose at the same time, and have one lower than the other, lower than the cooler, the fluid should drain pretty good and get the best part of the fluid out of the cooler.<br>An alternative is to take it to a tranny shop who can do a real flush on it.<br>I can't say about draining the TC though. Some TCs have drain plugs, but I don't know about the stock TC in the 47RE.<br><br>When I had my ATS put in I had a dry tranny to start with and the shop flushed the cooler lines so I figure I'm pretty &quot;pure&quot; in the Amsoil department.<br><br>Chris

mazeppa

Changing the auto trans fluid is one nasty job, you have to drop the pan to change the filter but Chrysler Ford GM and all of the others should still put a drain plug in the pan. &gt;

Stamey

There's a good idea. Yuo should think about putting a new pan with drain plug on when you are under there, or putting a plug in that one. You may be able to get a plug that will work with the sheet metal pan. That will sure make the job easier next time.<br><br>Chris

BuckBoardDriver

I'm going to put a Mag Hy-Tec pan on it while I am down there. It has a drain plug. No reason to crack the pan every time you need to change the fluid.

Stamey

[quote author=BuckBoardDriver link=board=4;threadid=16110;start=0#151731 date=1056163663]<br>I'm going to put a Mag Hy-Tec pan on it while I am down there. It has a drain plug. No reason to crack the pan every time you need to change the fluid.<br>[/quote]<br><br> ;D ;D ;D

amslube

Here's the procedure I use to do as close to a 100% fluid change as possible:<br><br>1) Go to your local auto parts store and buy a automatic transmission filter/gasket kit for your vehicle.<br>2) Disconnect the transmission cooling lines that attach to the radiator or trans oil cooler and put some type of flexible hose over the lines and direct them into a drain pan. Start the engine and run until the fluid stops coming out of the lines. Do not reconnect the lines to the radiator/cooler.<br>3) Remove the pan from the transmission (much easier and neater with most of the fluid pumped out).<br>4) Replace the transmission filter. You will see this attached to the valve body when you remove the pan.<br>5) Clean the pan &amp; trans surfaces well and replace the pan gasket. Do Not overtorque the bolts when reinstalling.<br>6) Put in about 5-6 qts. of ATF.<br>8) Have someone start the engine. Watch the fluid coming out of the trans cooler lines and when it changes color to the new fluid, shut the engine off. You have purged the old ATF from the torque converter. If the old fluid is not discolored where you can see a difference, shut off the engine when the fluid stops coming out of the cooling lines.<br>9) Refill the transmission but do not overfill. Remember, automatic transmission fluid level is checked with the engine running and the fluid hot. I generally fill to the &quot;Low&quot; level mark on the dip stick, run the vehicle for a few miles, recheck and add as necessary.

Commatoze

[quote author=amslube link=board=4;threadid=16110;start=0#151956 date=1056253004]<br><br>...........<br>2) Disconnect the transmission cooling lines that attach to the radiator or trans oil cooler and put some type of flexible hose over the lines and direct them into a drain pan. Start the engine and run until the fluid stops coming out of the lines. Do not reconnect the lines to the radiator/cooler.<br>[/quote]<br><br>I've heard of other guys using this method, but the service manual states that to allow more than one quart to drain can cause transmission damage. Don't know why. Just thought I'd mention it.

WA4SLC

I changed my tranmission fluid before I went on a 700 mile trip to Nashville TN. I was changing to Amsoil so I wanted to do a complete flush also I wanted to put in a temp. sensor at the same time. <br>I took the return line from the cooler loose from the rear drivers side of the transmission and put a clear peice of tubing or hose over the end and twisted a peice of wire around the end so it would not come off. I measured the amount of fluid that came out when I droped the pan. I put that amount in and started the engine and put the shift in nutral and watched as the fluid was pumped into a container. I only let it run for about 60 seconds. I then mesured the amount that was pumped out and added that much new fluid to the transmission. When I was satisfied that all the old stuff was out I replaced the line and brought the fluid level up to the full mark. I did not have a inch pound torque wrench at that time so I did not adjust the bands, but I did buy one while in Nashville and hope to adjust the band that is adjusted from the outside soon.<br>I pulled my 33 ft. travel trailer to Nashville with no problems. I went up through Fancy Gap VA. because it is an easier climb through the mountains. The highest transmission thepeture I saw was going through Raleigh in the stop and go traffic.<br><br>Bill

Shovelhead

[quote author=amslube link=board=4;threadid=16110;start=0#151956 date=1056253004]<br>Remember, automatic transmission fluid level is checked with the engine running and the fluid hot. I generally fill to the &quot;Low&quot; level mark on the dip stick, run the vehicle for a few miles, recheck and add as necessary.<br>[/quote]<br><br>One other thing to add is to check the fluid with fluid hot, engine running, and in Neutural, not in park.<br>The Chrysler trans doesn't circulate fluid while in park.

WA4SLC

If you re-read my post you will see that I did put it in neutral to pump the old fluid out. I did run down the road for a few miles and back home so it would be hot to get the final fluid level.<br>I must have done it right because it did not give me any problem on the 1550 mile trip to Nashville TN. pulling my travel trailer. The only time I saw high transmission temps was in stop and go traffic.<br><br>Bill

Shovelhead

No snub, <br><br>That was added for others reading the post.<br>You'd be surprised to see how many new Dodge owners don't know about our check tranny fluid in &quot;N&quot; quirk. <br><br>Ed

Mr. 45

I don't have to check my tranny in park ;D I got a DTT tranny I has been modified to pump fluid in park or neutural 8)