Anti lock brakes not working
#1
Anti lock brakes not working
Please help me anyone, my antilock brakes have not been working for some time now and the abs and emergency brake lights have both been on for several months now. once and a while the lights would flash off and the brake pedal would be very hard to push down and then while pushing down on the brake the lights come back on and then the back end locks up this is very dangerous and now its doing it all the time ive reset the computer overnight by disconnecting the batteries but no luck. I almost rear ended someone today and left about 20 feet of rubber. im tired of this **** can anyone tell me how to find out whats the problem??? Dont have alot of money to fix this so i hope its cheap. please please help me ASAP!!! thanks
2001 Dodge ram 2500 turbo diesel, 24 valve engine. 262,000 miles.
2001 Dodge ram 2500 turbo diesel, 24 valve engine. 262,000 miles.
#3
DTR's Volcano Monitor, Toilet Smuggler, Taser tester, Meteorite enumerator, Quill counter, Match hoarder, Panic Dance Choreographer, Bet losing shrew murderer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 965
Likes: 0
From: Kenai Alaska
On that subject dont forget that some of the auto places will loan you a scanner. Our local Napa lets you use it in the parking lot.
#4
i bought a ODB2 scanner about a year ago, but i plug it in to the thing under the dash and it doesnt throw a code for anything, is it a special scanner?? how many sensors does the 2001 ram 2500 have for the abs cause i found one in the middle of the diff on the axle and thats the only one i see.
#7
auto parts store doesnt even know about an abs scanner, im so tired of not getting any answers from them. wish i didnt even have abs if i could find a way to just disconnect it it would be just like having an older car without all these complicated. i am at a loss for what to do at this point. mechanics probably gonna charge me just to hook up their scanner.
aceman28. Profanity of any kind is NOT allowed here on DTR. You agreed to the rules to become a member here and using the language I had to edit out of your post is a clear and patent violation of those rules.
Hvytrkmech
aceman28. Profanity of any kind is NOT allowed here on DTR. You agreed to the rules to become a member here and using the language I had to edit out of your post is a clear and patent violation of those rules.
Hvytrkmech
Last edited by Lary Ellis (Top); 07-26-2012 at 01:06 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Aceman28...Normally around here if you drop the "F" bomb you are immediately banned from this forum...Tim (Heavytruckmech) took pity on you and allowed you to stay with a warning....best thank him for that because I doubt any other Admin would have done so.
I hope you get your problem solved, but please remember to keep from showing your frustration by posting profanity here...that will just get you removed from the source that can help you out
I hope you get your problem solved, but please remember to keep from showing your frustration by posting profanity here...that will just get you removed from the source that can help you out
#9
I had the ABS light go On in the middle of the trip, it is not an emergency and should not cause what you are describing. ABS system does not activate your brakes to cause wheel lock-up.
The rear sensor is very easy to replace and is usually the culprit. I think it costs about $30 and is located on top of the rear axle.
The rear sensor is very easy to replace and is usually the culprit. I think it costs about $30 and is located on top of the rear axle.
#10
A few items that come to mind regarding the issues you experience are brake fluid contaminated with petroleum products such as power steering fluid. This can contribute or cause these issues. If a petroleum based fluid is introduced to a brake system, every component that contains rubber in the system will have to be replaced. Oil attacks the brake components containing rubber (elastomers) and causes them to swell and deteriorate. Has anyone added the wrong fluid to the system? Also,if the brake fluid is not flushed/replaced on a regular schedule, moisture and contamination problems may develop by way of corrosion.
Brake hoses can cause a similar problem. A deteriorating inner liner can collapse and act much like a check valve. The rubber lines slowly degrade over time due to moisture and heat,while the hoses break apart inside contaminating the fluid with small debris. Unfortunately brake fluid maintenance is overlooked by many drivers,which makes issues worse. By this time the factory fill brake fluid is moisture contaminated, overheated and therefore,no longer useful. This can cause a brake to pull to one side or stay applied,causing lockup. If the caliper(s) are not releasing you will want to open the bleeder screw on the wheel locked up. If the wheel remains locked, the problem is in the caliper.
The issues you experience sound related to the flexible rubber lines,however; it is relatively difficult to diagnose a collapsed rubber line because you cannot physically see the inside of the line. The rule of thumb is usually if the vehicle pulls to one side while braking and the caliper shows no damage,corrosion and the pistons move freely, then replacement of the brake hose is required. I also recommend you bleed the brakes thoroughly if you have not done so prior to this. This would also be a good time to clean and grease the slides and bolts that are inserted into the boots with brake grease
The abs light is commonly triggered by a bad wheel speed sensor and a common issue on the 2001.5 model.
Brake hoses can cause a similar problem. A deteriorating inner liner can collapse and act much like a check valve. The rubber lines slowly degrade over time due to moisture and heat,while the hoses break apart inside contaminating the fluid with small debris. Unfortunately brake fluid maintenance is overlooked by many drivers,which makes issues worse. By this time the factory fill brake fluid is moisture contaminated, overheated and therefore,no longer useful. This can cause a brake to pull to one side or stay applied,causing lockup. If the caliper(s) are not releasing you will want to open the bleeder screw on the wheel locked up. If the wheel remains locked, the problem is in the caliper.
The issues you experience sound related to the flexible rubber lines,however; it is relatively difficult to diagnose a collapsed rubber line because you cannot physically see the inside of the line. The rule of thumb is usually if the vehicle pulls to one side while braking and the caliper shows no damage,corrosion and the pistons move freely, then replacement of the brake hose is required. I also recommend you bleed the brakes thoroughly if you have not done so prior to this. This would also be a good time to clean and grease the slides and bolts that are inserted into the boots with brake grease
The abs light is commonly triggered by a bad wheel speed sensor and a common issue on the 2001.5 model.
#11
This sounds vaguely like my truck's problem. I didn't have an ABS light, but when coming to a stop, the pedal would "push back" like the ABS thought a wheel was locking. I nearly hit several cars in parking lots because of this.
As an interim fix, I simply unplugged one of my front ABS sensors. It triggered the ABS light, but stopped the pedal "Push back" that I found so dangerous...
Try that short term, see if it changes anything. Also, you can use an ohm meter to see if one of your wheel sensors is either shorted or open, indicating a failure.
As an interim fix, I simply unplugged one of my front ABS sensors. It triggered the ABS light, but stopped the pedal "Push back" that I found so dangerous...
Try that short term, see if it changes anything. Also, you can use an ohm meter to see if one of your wheel sensors is either shorted or open, indicating a failure.
#12
Check your wiring also, when the abs ecm sees a speed sensor drop to nothing it will think that the wheel has locked up. They work on AC voltage, jack the wheel off the ground and spin the wheel over by hand and see if you get a small amount of AC voltage, you can also check the resistance. I dont know what the number should be but the front two should match and the rear one should be close to the fronts give or take, dead open or shorted is a sign of a failed coil in the sensor.
#13
This is very interesting that a wheel speed sensor can cause the brakes to not work. I am having this same issue with my ABS activating and all of a sudden having no brakes, all of this along with no warning lights. I am actually an automotive engineer (not a brake system designer), and this just seems like a VERY dangerous design and and a whole lot of liability for Dodge. I will fix mine myself, but I sure am amazed that there is not yet a recall on this. Think of the bad things that could happen with this failure mode...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ejb
2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain
19
05-19-2003 02:08 PM
JImbo1
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
6
04-30-2003 05:48 PM