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AirDog Raptor FRRP...... YAYYYYY!!

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Old 07-27-2011 | 02:30 PM
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From: Camarillo
AirDog Raptor FRRP...... YAYYYYY!!

First of all, a huge thanks to Dave for explaining the failure mechanism of the P.O.S. Carter. As well, to everyone else who told me the Carter was bad, you were right too.

It took all of ten minutes to install the Raptor FRRP on my existing relocated/big line kit. I just installed the drawstraw 1 with brand new 3/8 line as well last week. It was so easy my wife could have guilted it together within a half hour!

Anyways, I didn't have to bleed anything, or anything weird. I needed to add about two inches of fuel hose from the tank which was super easy too.

So I turned the key on, but didn't really hear the pump like I heard the old Carter, so I was afraid it wasn't working. But I hit the switch and she fired up immediately, and the fuel pressure instantly rose to 20 psi without a moments hesitation. I just got back from an extensive road test and here are my results:

Idle .... 20-21 psi
Normal stop and go ....17-20 psi
WOT w/Edge Juice on 5 .....14 psi for just a moment, then eased back up

Final analysis -

Carter was bad right out of the box (maybe)
I'm thinking that it was remotely possible that some dirt from the torn middle screen might have gotten into the relief valve seating area and perhaps caused it to release easier then it should have, but I haven't seen the inside of a carter with my own eyes yet to make that judgement for sure. I will tear down my first on now to see how it works.
Regardless, the Raptor is such a superior pump, with a pressure adjuster on board, ease of installation, and ability to support mild mods, that I personally think that this should be the first mod a second gen truck owner should make, after a fuel pressure gauge of course.

I figure I might make about 300 or so HP with my mods so I could even bump up my stix a bit and still be fine. (I'm not going to...)

Anyways, I'm hoping that with a few more miles I can quit stressing and maybe even forget about fuel pumps for a while again..

Caio all,

Doug
Old 07-28-2011 | 07:47 AM
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From: CLT, NC
Glad to hear you got it fixed....Sometimes the advice of others is good, but we have to know for sure for ourselves. Thats how we get smarter....

swordfish
Old 07-28-2011 | 12:05 PM
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I've run about 60 miles now without a hiccup.

Freeway at 70 mph runs ~17-19 psi
Idle is still ~ 20-21 psi
WOT on x5 is ~ 13-15 psi

I'm just hoping that my learning curve can help a future newbie.
I think a stock truck can be fine with a stock Carter, but I think that the Fuel Pressure gauge is THE single most important first step in owning a second-gen truck.

After two Carter failures in two days quite possibley due to a tear in the fuel module middle screen, I personally think a small in-line filter "pre-pump" is also a good idea.

But with extensive searches for the last month on numerous deisel sites about fuel pressure, I feel CONFIDENT that my current set up is as good as any mild horsepower setup out there. And I feel comfortable in recommending that it is a good model for others to use.

It's final make-up is:

Modified stock tank module with middle screen removed. Clean entire unit with gunk engine cleaner. Drill out additional holes in base plate for return fuel, re-clean base screen with gunk-cleaner. (it's dirtier than you think) It will be snow-white when clean. Install draw straw 1. Support tank on blocks where the hangin straps are so that it's belly hangs low, and make sure module is fully extended onto tank floor to measure drawstraw. Cut bottom of drawstraw at an angle to make sure fuel can get in. I cut mine at about a 35 degree or so. Run new 3/8" hose and remove steel line. Use the Vulcan relocation/big line kit. This will complete the 3/8" fuel run with oversize banjo fittings everywhere. Install a brass ball valve and a in-line filter befor the lift pump. The bracket that comes in the bigline kit mates with the Raptor FRRP pump perfectly. The ball valve will make you very happy in the future if you ever have to deal with the fuel pump again. Keep your Carter with the mounting nuts in a zip-lock bag under your seat for emergency use. (hopefully you'll never need it - But I sure was glad I had a spare after 5 years of sitting under my seat).

I am not saying that any of the other factory replacement aren't as good as the Raptor. I don't know as I have no personal experience with them. But, the Raptor FRRP is a proven 100 gph pump with a pressure adjustment built in, that uses the factory electrical plug. So you have sufficient and reliable fuel delivery to support your basic programmers, without any of the hard starting or 1/4 tank issues. I think it's a good system.
Old 08-02-2011 | 12:47 AM
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From: Ferndale, WA
Raptor FRRP owner here too, glad to see my non draw straw or big line setup has the same to better pressure as you guys. Happy VP, happy life!
Old 08-02-2011 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Deezil
Raptor FRRP owner here too, glad to see my non draw straw or big line setup has the same to better pressure as you guys. Happy VP, happy life!
I'm glad you are having good luck with yours! It's a sweet pump! I am now having the 1/4 tank issues because of this stupid draw straw.

Keep in mind that there are two parts to the pumping action, pressure and volume. If you're stock, you probably can maintain decent pressure at WOT with the stock lines. Oops, I just noticed that you are basically set up the same as me.

With my 3/8 line, I can suck it down to 13-14 psi at WOT with the Edge juice on 5. At setting #2 at WOT, pressure will not really go below 16.

What do your numbers do with the stock lines? What is your max psi at idle? I'm at 21, but thinking about dropping it to 18 psi. This is a good comparison to tell if the larger line is all that important.
Keep in mind, I HAD to change to the draw straw, as my middle screen tore in my module. I think those little flapper valves in that bottom assmbly are key to not having the 1/4 tank issue.

I'm very tempted to go back to a stock module instead of the draw straw, but I think I will probably go with the Hellman sump if I actually go to the point of doing something.
My other option is to just keep the tank above half full.... I suppose that isn't all that hard as I'm not a long trip guy...

take care...

Last edited by sluggo42; 08-02-2011 at 11:07 AM. Reason: adding more
Old 08-02-2011 | 11:05 AM
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From: Ferndale, WA
20-21 at idle, driving around 19, WOT 16-17 with edge on 1-3, on level 5 it might drop to 15. These are all the mods I plan on doing to it, breaking stuff is expensive.
Old 10-31-2011 | 11:07 PM
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From: Tallmadge,Ohio
I just bought Airdog Raptor.My truck have in tank pump.I want to put Airdog on frame.Do I have to take old pump out.What is draw straw?Is there kit I have to buy?
They sent me pump and kit to mount on engine block.Sorry for my English.(Second language).Thank you for help.

Last edited by big di; 10-31-2011 at 11:40 PM. Reason: more information
Old 11-04-2011 | 11:51 AM
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I have about 25000 on my Raptor FRRP. I battled the intank pump with a holly blue on the frame for too long. Finally the intank pump died and i had enough. I have a parts truck that i took the factory non lift pump fuel sending unit out of that truck and installed the FRRP pump on the existing big line kit. Im gettin 21 PSI at idle and no less than 157PSI at WOT with QUICK recover time between shifts. As im heading into another snow plowing season i can operate my truck with a piece of mine. Not having to worry about another failed Holley. Money WELL spent in my opinion.
Old 11-04-2011 | 12:04 PM
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From: Ferndale, WA
mine is still going strong, pressure seemed to have dropped off a little to 19-20 at idle, but still 15+ at wot
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