EverydayDiesel

Is this how you do it???

1. Remove the valve cover and gasket.
2. Twist off the crank case breather (6) with oil filter wrench (circled in red in the first pic)
3. Turn alternator counter clockwise until it shows Top Dead Center
4. Adjust intake valves 1, 2, 4 to 0.010 (long rocker is exhaust, short is intake)
5. Adjust exhaust valves 1, 3, 5 to 0.020 (long rocker is exhaust, short is intake)
6. Turn alternator counter clockwise until it shows in the 6 o clock position.
7. Adjust intake valves 3, 5, 6 to 0.010 (long rocker is exhaust, short is intake)
8. Adjust intake valves 2, 4, 6 to 0.020 (long rocker is exhaust, short is intake)
9. Tighten jam nuts to 18 ft lbs while holding the adjustment nut.
10. Recheck all gaps.
11. Put all the crap back together

My question is... in the second pic which ones are the exhaust and which ones are the intake valves?

biododge1

that looks correct. the intake valves are at the 12, and 3 O'Clock positions

EverydayDiesel

if the very left of that picture if the front of the motor....what would letter A and the rest of them be? intake or exhaust?

A = [Intake or Exhaust?]
B = [Intake or Exhaust?]
C = [Intake or Exhaust?]
D = [Intake or Exhaust?]
E = [Intake or Exhaust?]
F = [Intake or Exhaust?]
G = [Intake or Exhaust?]
H = [Intake or Exhaust?]

Sorry im a noob. I just want to make sure I have everything in order.

I also read something about if you didnt have the barring tool (which i dont cause its on backorder from snapon) then you have to do it backwards???

1-5-3-6-2-4

no thats second pic is backwards.........Front of Motor is to the RIGHT.

The rocker arms are on the driverside of the head beside the injection lines. Bridges are on the passengerside


I just finished doing Headstuds in my engine........so I've just been staring at the motor with the valve cover off for the last 3 hours. The image is still pretty fresh

EverydayDiesel

ok i fixed the pic


so would A & B be the intake or the exhaust?
would C & D be the intake or the exhaust?

AlpineRAM

The short rockers are intake, the long ones exhaust.
You will see with the mark on 12 o clock that on the cylinders 2 and 4 the valves are open (the rocker is tilted) and you can't adjust them.


HTH

AlpineRAM

EverydayDiesel

thanks alpine! thats what I was looking for!
Im going to attempt this adjustment tomorrow.
Anything else I left out?

AlpineRAM

Well it depends from where you work- kneeling on the bumper like I do or from the drivers side etc, but on the CTD the shurefire way is that the long rocker is exhaust, short one intake.
You will notice that the valvest that you can adjust as per service manual will have some lash if you are on the point (eg 12 o clock on the marker in+ex 1 in 2 etc) and the others will be lifted a bit. (The rocker isn't even like on the valves you want to adjust)
Take care to insert the feeler gauge in the places I marked for you- it won't fit in anywhere else unless you take the whole stuff apart.

I didn't use the corrected pic so the arrow "front of motor" is the wrong way around.

Oopsie sorry on the picture part- one of our data warehouses had a direct lightning strike so my webspaces ain't accessible for the moment...

For removing the valve cover I prefer to separate the gasket from the cover before I do the valve cover tango to slip it out. The gasket rests on the head and doesn't get damaged. Then I lift the gasket out and put it away for cleaning I do also clean the gasket surface on the head with an outward motion. Perhaps I'm overdoing it but I try to keep the sand and crud out of my engine while working on it

HTH

AlpineRAM

Tocapet

You forgot to mention torqueing the lock nuts to 18 ft lbs and then checking the clearances again to make sure the torqueing didn't throw them off.

EverydayDiesel

i edited my first post to reflect everyone that helped.

thanks again!!!

Tocapet

Just adjusted mine this morning. One thing I noticed.. You must take valve cover bolts all the way out or you can't get the cover off. The bolts hanging down inside will catch on the rocker arms and won't let you slide it out. And to get the back bolt out, you must also remove the little rubber washer. Other than that, it went very well. I learned a couple of tricks doing it. One is that you can leave it a bit loose and then when you torque the jam jut to 18 ft. lbs, it gets just right. If not, loosen it slightly, twist the adjuster and then torque it again. I have a stepped feeler guage, so I could set it for go/no-go with the step being .002 thicker than the end. After playing with the valves a bit, I didn't need the Allen wrench any more. I was setting them with only my fingers and the torque wrench.

GFB

No need to remove the valve cover bolts. Push the heater hose down a bit and the cover will slide over the top of it so the bolts clear the valvetrain, then slide it out.