This is different than resetting it. I did it to mine today and it made a nice difference. Boost comes up faster and smoke is down. You have to measure the voltage that the APPS is putting out then compare that to the voltage that it's supposed to be set at. For example. My apps was putting out .450 volts and it was supposed to be putting out .584 volts. I went and adjusted it and now I'm putting out .580 volts. It's not a major difference but it is nice. I've only put maybe 5 miles on it so far but come wednesday I'll be doing 500 miles a week so I'll give yall a better idea on how it drives.

Instructions:

Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket

With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.

• You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23

• Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,

• At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference

TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK

Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.

Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!

You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).

 

Does anybody know if the apps adjustment will work if you have done the ATS fix for a hunting transmission

 

I did this same thing last week and I'll give credit where its due, I used the procedure posted here by Crobtex: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...highlight=apps

For me it didn't seem to make any drivabiltiy difference that I could tell but it did clear up a re-accurring p0500 code that I had. I did pickup 1mpg but I also installed a BHAF, new lift pump, fuel filter and oil change. So I cann't really say if it came from the Apps procudre or the BHAF.

Also today I used the Snap-on scanner from work and re-checked for codes, still none but I noticed that the Snap-on scanner can read the APPS voltage so if you have access to a scanner its a little easier than poking the wire.

 

Ahh. Didn't realize that crobtex had posted the procedure already. Sorry Charlie. Didn't mean to steal your thunder.

Chadwick, I'm running a DTT noise filter and a voltage regulator from DTT on mine and it didn't affect those at all. Don't know how that compares to the ATS fix.

 

thanks bigblue, ATS fix is basicly cutting and splicing some wires. i am going to try there recalibration and see if it helps out

 

Which wires did you have to cut and splice?

Went and drove the truck around tonight. Throttle is definately a lot nicer and smoke is definately down. From a standing stop with the TST on 5 I can hit 40psi of boost in 1st gear and it actually starts accelerating in first gear where as before it would bog through first gear until it hit second and then it would take off. From a roll the truck is also a lot more eager to accelerate.

 

I did the procedure on boxing day and it has made a uge improement. No more dead pedal! No more APPS codes. well worth the short amount of time invested.

 

what did you do to beable to "poke" this wire? cut some of the plastic wrap off and tape it back up?

 

Yup. It won't hurt anything to cut some of the insulation off.

 

I unplugged the harness and just took my reading off the pin... Keep the corrosion out.

 

Any issues having the C1 connector unplugged with the key on? If not, that sounds like the easiest way to probe the connection.

 

What is the setting for the volt meter?

ACV 750 is what i was checking with but Im thinking my volt meter is trash.

 

[QUOTE=BigBlue;1287107]This is different than resetting it. I did it to mine today and it made a nice difference. Boost comes up faster and smoke is down. You have to measure the voltage that the APPS is putting out then compare that to the voltage that it's supposed to be set at. For example. My apps was putting out .450 volts and it was supposed to be putting out .584 volts. I went and adjusted it and now I'm putting out .580 volts. It's not a major difference but it is nice. I've only put maybe 5 miles on it so far but come wednesday I'll be doing 500 miles a week so I'll give yall a better idea on how it drives.

Instructions:

Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket

With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.

• You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23

• Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,

• At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference

TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK

Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.

Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!

You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).

[/QUOTE

what should the setting be on the multi meter?

Mine has about 10 diff settings I tried it with it set on ACV 750.

Also is there anyway to check the volt meter before useing one?

I tried testing it with a battery but got nothing on the acv setting.

 

You should be on a DC voltage setting. And considering you're only measuring a voltage of < 1V, you can probably set it on the lowest (which on mine is 2V)

 

Anybody care to comment on AggieJustin's first question?

I would also much rather disconnect and measure at pins and not cut insulation away.