98 fwd ball joints
#1
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98 fwd ball joints
I need to replace my ball joints , how hard can I expect this to be also can I use
a hydraulic stand press to press them in an out
thanks
a hydraulic stand press to press them in an out
thanks
#2
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Defiately get a ball joint tool, and check this out for unit bearing removal;
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98...-easy-way.html
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98...-easy-way.html
#3
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It can be a pain in the A$$,the bearing unit is a real bear to get out if its tough at all,seems like you take the 4 bolts out and it falls out or you are there with a torch and a sledgehammer for hours.
The balljoints were not actually that bad to change,with the tool.
I'd pick up a big brass drift too,the lowers can be a little sticky,put everthing back together with Neverseize.
So,if you don't want an adventure best have it done for you,but if you like a challenge have at it!
(my exp with these,others will dis-agree)
The balljoints were not actually that bad to change,with the tool.
I'd pick up a big brass drift too,the lowers can be a little sticky,put everthing back together with Neverseize.
So,if you don't want an adventure best have it done for you,but if you like a challenge have at it!
(my exp with these,others will dis-agree)
#4
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I have a bad ball joint on the driver side,Looks like I'm going to find out how much fun this is first hand
Last edited by itrattles; 02-15-2008 at 04:17 PM. Reason: typo
#5
put it this way, i did mine 1 mo. after i bought my truck, and a 10 ton portapower woldnt budge the hub. took it to my cousin who works at a shop, told him dont care how, dont wanna know, just get em done. to this day still dont want to know how he got the hub off. but doing brakes after he got them done is a breeze now.
#6
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Easiest way to get the hub off is to cut the ball joints with a sawzall (you are replacing the joints anyway) and then press the hub out on a hydraulic press (minimum of 20 ton). Takes a couple of hours per side. Don't forget the antiseize when putting it back together. Do it this way and save yourself $500 -$800 dollars for not replacing bearing hubs. You need 2-3 good 24 tooth metal blades per side (ball joints are hard metal). If you have a ball joint press ( I did not) you may be able to do it faster. No matter how badly stuck the hubs are, this will take right out with no fuss.
#7
DTR's Locomotive Superhero and the DTR Sweet Tea Specialist
I did my balljoints,hubs and tierod recently. I used the powersteering method along with a big hammer to knock the hubs outs. For the balljoints, a balljoint press with the adapter kit from harbor freight and a little bit of heat from the torch worked wonders. I would recomend if you are going into replace the balljoints, you might as well do all the tierods, axle ujoints, and hubs if they haven't been replaced yet. Its alot easier to do everything at once than piece by piece. I made the mistake of not doing my axleshaft ujoints then, luckily i used alot of antisieze so everything came apart again pretty easy. And do use alot of antisieze!
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#8
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They are a "witch" to replace usually, since you are in NY which is a heavy salt area you might have more difficulties than others.
Plan to spend some time with it and allow for extra.
Plan to spend some time with it and allow for extra.
#9
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All this info about doing bawl joints on 4X4s. I have a question: WHAT ABOUT 2WDs???????? Any easier? I need to do mine. I have the Harbor Freight press without the added adapters. Do I need them? They seem to cost more than the press itself.
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