HOHN

I agree. This is precisely the reason that I went through the hassle of installing a Torque King pilot bearing/bushing from Quad 4x4 when I was having my clutch installed.

I had already noticed at only 45K miles that my truck was occassionally making a metallic rattling sound if I lugged it at lower RPM, and the sound was NOT in the engine. I was play in the pilot bearing-- that rattling was the input shaft!

So, I invite you to see for yourself-- stock on the far left, my bearing on the far right. Which is beefier to you?



I figured I had the thing apart anyway, I'd be a FOOL not to beef up this bearing while I had it all apart.


This bearing does have more rolling resistance, which means the sychros will have to work a little harder, but not unreasonably so. Shifting is not as smooth as it used to be, but still plenty smooth enough. It rarely "blocks" to where I can't get it in gear-- while it used to do that a pretty good amount. Not anymore.

I highly recommend the big dog pilot bearing if you have a 6-speed!


Justin

gmctd

You'll need to pull the flywheel to have that done - have the clutch surface cleaned up, also.

The second bearing is the standard upgrade with a replacement aftermarket flywheel.

The 3rd and 4th bearing is double safety - if the roller\ball bearing freezes up, and it will, eventually, the additional bronze pilot bushing allows the input shaft to spin as normal without damaging the pilot shaft nose - some oem's use the bronze bushing only

HOHN

Yes-- I had quite the adventure getting mine installed, as I had one shop resurface the flywheel (using a special machine designed just for the task) and another bore the hole in the flywheel and press fit the bearing. Neither of these was the same shop actually doing the trans work! Lotsa parts chasing that day!

Anyway, I had the machine shop leave about 1/4" register in the bottom of the enlarged bearing bore, so that the bearing would "bottom out" against that register and make a more secure press-fit and ensure proper alignment of the bearing in the flywheel.

The instructions from Quad4x4 were pretty good overall.


DO NOT HAVE THE FLYWHEEL SURFACED ON A LATHE! Don't laugh, it happens. It needs to be done on an actual flywheel machine. This ensures that the maching marks flow radially out from the center of the flywheel, while a lathe would make them concentric to the center bore-- which is improper.


I'm VERY happy with the quality of the work done by the shops I used in the Tampa area-- as an out-of-towner I didn't know the local shops, so I asked some clutch shops which machine shops they thought were best, and vice versa. When a certain name comes up lots of times, it's a safer pick!


Justin

afoulk

I've noticed that mine makes a mechanical rattling sound when I lug it in the lower gears, especially if I try to pull out in 3rd. Is it a good chance that my pilot bearing or even worse, my input shaft bearing going out?

HOHN

I can't say for sure. All I know is that mine made that sound with the old clutch and pilot bearing and doesn't make it after putting a new clutch and bearing in.

The brutal bottom end of the Cummins is murder on that weenie OEM bearing, imo.

JH

gmctd

Generally - if the trans rattles in all gear ranges, it can be the input shaft bearing, and\or the counter-shaft bearings, and maybe the output shaft bearings.

- if it rattles in Neutral, it's likely not the output shaft bearing, as only the input shaft and counter-shaft spin in Neutral, as do all the gears on the output shaft

- if no rattle in Neutral, then it's likely the output shaft rear bearing

- if rattles in a particular gear range, then it's the needle bearings in that gear-set

- if it rattles in any gear range, sitting still with clutch disengaged, then it's the pilot bearing in the crankshaft or\and the throwout bearing.

Finally - any manual trans will rattle when lugged low enough - that's the low-rpm engine power strokes transferring into the driveline

afoulk

well, maybe its just normal then. I only get it in 2nd and 3rd gears if I really lug it. Guess I just got paranoid cause I been reading about so many problems people are having with the 6spds. lately

gmctd

Keep an eye (or ear) on it - if the rattle spreads to other ranges, time for new bearings.

A change of fluid can help, and will give you some indication of actual condition - check for metal particles in the drained fluid - even minute particles will ruin ball, needle, and roller bearings

Go with the factory stuff, or do a search for other recommendations.

I'm trying 2qts 75w syn gear lube mixed with 3qts 15w30 syn motor oil - which reminds me: I filled the box thru the shift lever tower to put the full 5qts in - supposed to help with extended bearing life - BUT: I haven't towed or loaded it, other than full-throttle exhilaration events......or, is that acceleration events......never mind - means the same thing.

'Nuther words - stick with the factory\equiv recommended fluids - my trans is fully warranted by the rebuilder: me..............

afoulk

I changed my fluid about 5,000miles ago and used Royal Purple Syncromax. I can't remember how much I put in exactly, but i jacked the right rear up as high as I could and filled it thru the top pto cover bolt on the passenger side. I think I got 6qts in it or close to it.