SmokinShaker

I've only put 10k+ miles on the truck (I'm at 55k now). When I first got it I wasn't happy with the way it went in to gear. It wasn't real bad, just not smooth. When I put my FAST coolers on I filled it with Super Tech 80-90 GL-5 (only brand I could get at the time). Immediately I noticed it was harder to get in to gear. I put some anti-friction additive and it didn't make any difference. It is so bad that sometimes you just can't get it in to 1st or 2nd. WHAT HAPPENED?! Is it the oil? I want to take it in to the dealer but now I have "non-approved" DC oil in the trans which technically voids my warranty...what to do? If there is something I can do I would much rather do it myself. I hate dealers, especially the one in this area.

PLEASE HELP, I don't want to trash the tranny and I have an long trip coming up in a few weeks. ???

Thanks,
Ryan

Haulin_in_Dixie

What I would do is get the right fluid in the trans. The 80/w90 is way too heavy. The synthetic that Dodge uses seemed very light to me and the shifting ease increased when i put it in.

Superduty12v

I would get the recommended fluids. Personally I recommend Redline MTL. It's a GL-4 rated oil. It covers the heavy loads range of oil usage and also has friction coefficeints to help your synchros work better and make shifting a lot easier.

bulabula

I would dump that GL5 stuff from your tranny ASAP. The high pressure additives used in GL5 are not good for the soft yellow metal found in the transmission synchro's. Been there, done that.<br><br>Find a good syn GL4.

SmokinShaker

Thanks fellas, guess I shoulda waited on the coolers and asked the question first : <br><br>What's the damage to the synchros?

bulabula

smokin', <br>Going from memory here, apparently the high pressure additives in GL5 (which give it a higher pressure rating over GL4) are corrosive to softer metal like the bronze in the synchro's and will eat them up. Rear differentials (where GL5 is designed for) don't have any soft yellow metals in them for the GL5 to eat.<br><br>I probably still have a box of smalll chunkies in the basement that was left from my old transmission.<br><br>How did I have GL5 in my truck?<br>While I was still in the Navy and stationed far from home I took the truck in for an engine oil change and tranny oil change at a quick oil change place that shall remain nameless. They said they ran out of GL4, but that they had GL5, &quot;and since it has a higher rating than GL4, it'll be fine in your truck&quot;. My stuff was in the oily waste tank by now, and wanting to leave soon, I bought off on that logic. I probably had it in the truck for a few months or so before a buddy convinced me to replace it. About 5-5 months after that, parts of the transmission came apart and locked it up on I-95 outside of Quantico in the fast lane. Interesting few minutes there.<br><br>Tranny did have 72K on it when it exploded. The shop manager did say he thought the syncro's failed. Truck was a nissan 5 spd (easy on the jeering........).<br><br>Could I prove it without a shadow of a doubt that GL5 caused it? no. I'm a weapons engineer, not a chemical engineer. I had the paperwork from the oil change place saying they put in GL5 but they wore me down til I left in disgust.<br><br>That episode, and one quick knuckle-busting frenzy by a kid changing the oil on my now ex-wife's Volvo, convinced me NEVER to use those places again.<br><br>Your mileage may vary.

SmokinShaker

Thanks bulabula!<br><br>I assure you that I am going to change it this weekend. It just makes me mad that I asked a hand full of people if it was ok before I put the GL-5 in there &gt; Oh well, we live and we learn. I've only had it in there for a couple thousand miles so HOPEFULLY it hasn't done too much damage Do you have any recommendations for brand name? The only options I have around here are Wal Mart, Napa and Advance...<br><br>Again THANKS for the info!<br>Ryan<br>

rich

Look on the side of the tranny should be a gm part number you can get from them a lot cheaper than dodge and its the same stuff dodge sells. Gm and Dodge both built that trans. Change it a lot more than the owner manual recommends also. Good luck

Superduty12v

Since you have the internet you could order some Redline MTL from summitracing.com or jegs.com Most aftermarket auto parts stores carry it. NAPA prolly could get it too. Other than that I'd go with the manual.

bulabula

I used the OEM oil in the &quot;new&quot; transmission for a few thousand miles, then changed it out with Mobil 1 GL4 of the correct viscosity. This was done in mid-winter. The only reason I mention the season is that it shifted significantly easier in those colder mornings with the syn oil in it. <br><br>Just make sure you get the correct viscosity oil. Redline is good stuff too, just a little pricey and harder to find. We have a local NAPA here that stocks Redline and the M1 syn GL4 that I used. I used M1 b/c it was less $$.<br><br>Oh, for a data point using syn oil in a manual transmission: in my Mustang with the World Class T-5 in it (specifies ATF); it doesn't like any of the synthetics in it (M1 ATF, Redline D4 ATF, I didn't try MTL). When using this good slippery stuff in it I always got a grind going into third gear. After swapping them both out for the regular dino ATF (if there is such a thing), the grind went away. I didn't feel like experimenting with friction modifiers, nor did I feel like spending anymore time underneath the transmission.

dieselgeek

As a side note, the problem might not be the lube... I had the exact same problem develop around 40,000 miles... when I did the fifth gear fix I used the GL-4 RedLine oil. Helped a little, but still was difficult to get into 1st, 2nd or reverse without still rolling and lots of muscle...<br><br>When my pilot bearing finally failed, I replaced the clutch, T/O bearing, and pilot bearing. Magically, the thing shifts like it did on day one!!!<br><br>I read a lot about pilot bearing failures, seems like the weak link at least in the NV4500 config... my guess is that the PB failed slowly, so that the clutch disk was allowed to wobble, therefore dragging against the flywheel/pressure plate.<br><br>Your problem might be the slow degredation of the pilot bearing... which sucks to have to replace. Mine finally failed at 175,000 miles, I put in a new South Bend clutch and MAN am I happy with the feel. Near-stock pedal pressure, nice grip without shudder, and goes in and out of gear like brand new...

SmokinShaker

Thanks for all the info! <br><br>I'll definitely keep that one in mind too dieselgeek. I'm thinking of replacing the clutch here soon anyways.

SmokinShaker

I just got off the phone with Napa and they said the GL-5 is just fine for that trans. I asked about GL-4 and he didn't even have any. My only question is, if the GL-5 isn't safe why wouldn't it have a warning on the side of the bucket? I finally found my manual : and now see that it recommends GL-4, just curious about the 5...<br><br>[quote author=Haulin in Dixie link=board=4;threadid=6393;start=0#59040 date=1035941843]<br>What I would do is get the right fluid in the trans. The 80/w90 is way too heavy. The synthetic that Dodge uses seemed very light to me and the shifting ease increased when i put it in.<br>[/quote]<br><br>No disrespect intended Haulin but the manual calls for 75-85 so I don't see how 80-90 is way too heavy.

RCW

I believe the oil from DC Dodge is also synthetic. I would use it and change back after the transmission is good and warm to get the other stuff fully drained, and take the truck to the dealer with the complaint about the notchy shifting if it continues.<br><br>I have seen a handfull of the NV5600's have the problems you describe. Most require a change of the center bearing where the mainshaft and jackshaft join, a new main carrier bearing on the jackshaft, a new pilot bearing, and the internal tolerances to be tightened with the proper shims. Not much is being said about the issue yet, but it appears that the case flexes a bit, and that the transmission may be coming from the factory a bit loose, which may be allowing the OEM bearings to fail. It also seems to be more common on 4X4's than two wheel drive rigs.<br><br>Mine failed at around 5,000 miles, the dealer sent it out for a rebuild per my request (in place of swapping for a new one, and I did not mind the wait to get it done right). I also talked to the rebuilder, and they changed a few things like the bearings, syncros, and reshimmed the transmission to tighten it up for me. The dealer put in a new pilot bearing that was recommended by the rebuilder, at my expense.<br><br>I also now use Redline's oil, it was recommended by the rebuilder. But, would do so in yours after you get the problem warrantied.<br><br>I am now at 16,700 miles and push a whole lot of horses through it with no more problems. Shifts easy, and is quiet.<br>

SmokinShaker

THANKS RCW!