Fred Swanson

Do a visual when adjusting the bands, saves the guess work. 6 qts for dropping just the pan and filter. TV cable, make sure it has about 1/8-3/16ths slack. bend the arm at the trans, much quicker than dinking with the adjuster on the 12V's or breaking the white clip on the 24V's.

MAX340

What are you looking for if you "do a visual" on the bands? YA can't see the friction material, and the adjustment isn't one that even a calibrated eyeball could see.

The figures you give on the TV cable are incorrect. "Slack" in the TV cable must be less than .5mm, or .039". Thats .086" less than you prescribe.

xp8103

Bands were adjusted today by a pro (really, he's an amazing tech). Shifts seem much firmer and more positive than previous. He said that the front band seemed to take quite a bit more "adjustment" than the rear.

Fred Swanson

MAX340, I've built a few of these trans over the last 7 years, and I go with a visual of 1/4" on the rear adjuster, and use 1/4" on the front band lever. I prefer to do visual adjustments, not the number of turns, so I know what I've set it up for exactly.

Same with the kickdown, between 1/8-3/16ths works perfect.

People have their preferences, some like using the other method, no problem there. I try to get people to see what they are doing, not just doing it. It helps them for the next time, and they can check it themselves.

xp, glad to hear you got it taken care of.

MAX340

Where exactly are you calling for a 1/4" in to be? If you think there should be that much gap on either band in the actuating mechanism, I have to ask why.

The reason the adjustment on the bands is a torque spec, and then an exact number of turns back from that spec is so you CAN know exactly where its set up.

The TV cable (no longer kickdown, since its function is a bit more complex) must move the TV lever on the trans at exactly the same amount and same time as the throttle lever on the TPS or APPS. Any slack in the cable will negate the ability to get maximum clutch holding pressure and governor pressure for shifting.

And yes, I've built a few of these over the years as well. I strongly urge anyone following your directions to make friends with a trans rebuilder.

glenn-k

I agree with Max. Do it per spec. Accurate adjustment is required for proper shift timing and function of the transmission.

Visuals cannot work well as the band could hang in the back and there is no proper visual spec from the manufacturer to go by. I was a Dodge Dealer mechanic many years ago.

2500

would not depend upon this way only, unless you've done few of them. that said... this method is what save my bacon.

there's a number of slightly different spec's floating around. for instance spec's in Haynes manual didn't work for my 47RE. only I didn't realize it until I read a version of instruction below.

followed spec's in Haynes manual, but suspected something was wrong. bands were too loose. did several searches and found mention that when properly adjusted. adjustment arms should have aprox. 1/4 in play. mine had much more than that.

re-adjusted to correct spec's by stated number of turns. then had aprox. 1/4in play. verifying I was using correct spec's.
so please do use factory spec's number of turns back. but do use 1/4in method to verify correct spec's was used.

by the way... I pitched my haynes manual and purchased an original factory manual for my specific year/model.

glenn-k

I have read the different specs for the different models so getting the right one is important.

I also have found the Haynes manuals to be incomplete and mis-leading. Good on chucking it.

MAX340

The 1/4" spec should not be used as a substitute for the factory spec.

2500

no, but one should not discount it either. always use factory spec's and turn correct numbers of turns back out. but use this method to confirm you indeed got correct spec's. as there's several sets of different spec's floating around for 47RE.

if one is a first time adjuster of clutch bands. this method will save a LOT of time/trouble. had I gone with spec's in Haynes manual and buttoned everything back up, then filled with new synthetic fluid.

would not discovered mistake until, everything is put back together. one band can be adjusted outside, but other needs internal access to fix. in other words... you get to do everything again

MAX340

I'll stick with the factory specs. I've never had a problem achieving them, and never had a trans run badly when using them.