Taxidermyman

So I changed the 4 quarts and the filter this weekend. I did the band adjustments EXACTLY as the post said. 72 in-lb tight, then back off 2.5 turns..... It seemed to go well.
Now, the thing seems confused. It downshifts at weird times when Im driving through parking lots, and im on and off the pedal. It upshifts smoothly, but it seems to shift earlier than it did before. The shifts do seem a bit firmer. Is this right?
Now I wish I could just go back to what it was. The tranny just seemed to work smoother.

So my question is will this thing loosen up or what? I got 83k on the clock.

Thanks for all the help fellas.

JPR Ram

maybe the TV cable (kick down cable) now needs to be adjusted?

mini14

maybe it is where it should be, u just used to where it was before......ive adjusted my bands twice....and it firms the shift points.

TOM R

how do you adjust the cable?

Fishin2Deep4U

You adjusted both bands this way on the stock auto?

If so, I would expect shifting issues. Or shift timing issues.

This is not he factory number of turns.

Dave

TOM R

link to band adjusting from this site https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

Sprinter17

I can give the info on what I've learned rebuilding transmissions. To get good shifts it takes perfect timing, and equal friction between your bands and plates for the shift to go off smooth. So what happens is when everything is new , things are great, but when the plates and bands wear, and you just tighten the bands, your unbalancing the shift a little because the bands are grabbing better than the worn plates, that causes the shift to feel funny. Of course at the same time the sprag clutches(one way bearing) are locking too, but their either locked , freewheeling when needed , or bad(slipping)in the locked position. This is why you liked it better before, the worn bands were in sync. with the worn plates.

TOM R

so is it better to just service the trans and not adjust the bands?

sheriffav8r

Check out this site: http://www.dieseldatabase.com/read.php?id=55 or

http://www.dieselgiant.com/dodge_die...nance_tips.htm or

http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmissio...T_band_adj.htm

The last link has a boatload of dodge technical stuff.
It sucks that you have to drain the tranny again, but adjusting the bands is fairly precise to get the best tranny shifting....

MAX340

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MAX340

For the 2000 47RE, front band gets 72inlbs, an backed out 1 7/8 turns. Rear band is backed out 3 turns.

The throttle valve cable must be adjusted precisely, within .5mm of perfect. With the throttle closed, and the TV lever all the way released, the cable clip should line up perfectly on the stud on the throttle lever.

The info on trans building... well, its not quite right. Bands will ALWAYS grip better than clutches. So the friction cannot be "equal", ever.

In the first threegears of the 47RE, D1st uses the rear clutchpack. The front band applies to achieve D2nd. So, no "overlap", no unequal grip is possible. In the D3rd shift, pressure simaltaneously applies the front clutch and forces the band to release. In this shift, "overlap" CAN occur. It may be the lack of "smooth" operation that the OP feels now. This could particularly true if the band is misadjusted. There is a modification to the VB that can be done to lessen the possibility of overlap in the D3rd shift. This is included in most shift kits.

As to the wear that occurs in the bands and clutches: the friction material on a typical clutch disc is less than .015" thick on each side. If losing a total of .010" of friction material makes so large a difference in the timing of the shift that one can feel it, please have your buttocks calibrated and offer your services as a consultant.

The only time you will feel the difference in a shift due to clutch plate wear is when ALL the friction material is gone, or if it starts to chip off in chunks. If you modified your power output, you'll possibly feel a difference because the clutches no longer have the ability to hold the power. In either case, it will be the dreaded slipping sensation.

Bands are particularly tenacious; I've seen and heard about one front band in a 48RE, built by a big name builder. It is in a 2004 truck with a twin turbo setup, cranking over 500hp and pushing more torque than the dyno could register. That band, with 33% of its friction surface gone, STILL shifted normally under moderate throttle. Bands simply hold better than clutches. Because of this, AT designers prefer clutches for the smooth shifts, and bands for the shifts that need to be firm.

MAX340

BTW. the front band can be adjusted without taking the pan off, if that helps save some time.

Taxidermyman

I adjusted the bands just like it said to in the link that TOM R posted. I did not do the cable thing. Im not so sure how that works.

MAX340

The best way to tell you how it works would be to quote copyrighted material. I won't do that here, because it causes the mods too much heartburn and they act rudely. If you'd like to PM me, we can discuss this further.

And yes, even if I typed it in my own words, it would read almost exactly like the copyrighted material, so.....see above.

mopardamo

Hello,

I am no trans expert but the experts that I have talked to and read responses from do not recommend adjusting bands if a problems does not exist. Meaning if you are using this technique to firm a shift you are likely heading in the wrong direction. I have personally adjusted my bands in my 727 with no difference in operation unless I screwed up the adjustment. Over the years I learned not to mess with bands. After a rebuild I set it and leave it alone. I have seen too many trans damaged by monkeying with bands that did not need attention.

Damon