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24v P-Pump conversion

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Old 01-12-2004, 11:52 PM
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Originally posted by Tartarus
There's an internal Bosch engineering memorandum somewhere on the web -- I'll try to find it. It's very informative -- briefly what it says is that the VP44 was designed for European diesel fuel that has far higher lubrication properties. "Dry" American fuel causes the rotor to gall the sides of the cylinder, and eventually hang up on the grooves. The pump eventually seizes. Bosch is aware of the issue, and has made a few changes to the pump to compensate, but decided not to do a redesign.

Fuel additives with lubricants probably help, but the problem is that there is no systematic or trustworthy information on how much the additive lubricants may help the VP44 -- nobody has tested these products specifically with that pump.

I use additives with every tank, specifically because of the VP44. So far, no problems.

Darn that sounds like what I posted earlier only with the technical info to back it up. I have read a couple of articles regarding the same info.
Old 01-13-2004, 09:04 AM
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the APPS is like your TPS sensor on a 98.5 and 99 maybe 00 but not sure... it is on your pedal vs out on the butterly like gas trucks. It costs about 460.00 and take a couple weeks to get if they can find one National Back Order. My computer gives me trouble code P0121 basicly says something about the TPS/APPS voltage being incorrect. It does the same thing as posted above were i am driving down the road and it will just return to idle everyonce in a while. I just called the dealer for and update on a new APPS(good dealer he is searching for me) and he said it maybe the VP44...I know my LP was bad casue it died and i had to change it on thursday it was pretty bad...i put the new one in and it squirted fuel out about 6-8inchs out of the 1/8in NPT hole in the top of the filter...were as the other one was dribbling out. Now i am just waiting for my VP44 to die... and i haven't even made the first payment on this truck yet!

Stew
Old 01-13-2004, 09:56 PM
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Still need info on the 12v conversion if any body can help with some tips and tricks! Any ideas on the charger? What size, or could i run my 35 for awhile?
Old 01-14-2004, 12:11 AM
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Hey Crazy, how much did your fuel lines cost you? Im pondering doing sort of the same thing as you, except I will be going to a 24v head.
Scott
Old 01-15-2004, 04:31 PM
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trade it off!!!!!!

sad but true

its cheaper

JETPILOT - you da man!!!

I thought I was gonna keep my 24 valver forever and mod the crap out of it and all that jive, in fact I was almost at my HP goal, waisted a lot of money

turned out I got a junk pile so I researched the pump conversion and was seriously gonna do it

the conversion is not for the faint of heart or shallow pockets

theres no such thing as a conversion on a shoestring budget
its an all or nothin thing

At the time I was going to do it Piers had told me they didnt really want to do any of these.
I wonder if they are doing them again or not.

some people have had some trouble making them run right without going to a race pump
Old 01-15-2004, 04:56 PM
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The guy that I bought my motor from said he has done three or four of them, costs about $2000 in parts, without labor. He said he likes the conversion. Need the late pump for a good conversion. A lot of the cost is the fuel injector lines.
Old 01-16-2004, 08:05 AM
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the price I was given from two different sources was $8000 - $10,000 including ALL parts and labor (pump included)

approximately 2/3rds of this was labor


I thought this was a little high but this was from two of the best known sources for the conversion

$2000 for parts doesnt include a pump does it????
Old 01-16-2004, 09:40 AM
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He said "You'll need one of the later inline pumps" so I would guess not. I would still think $10,000 would be quite high.
Old 01-16-2004, 10:26 AM
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It's almost $3,000 just for a race pump.
Another $1,000 for Custom EDM injectors that work with the pop-off and duration of the P-7100, in a 24V head.

Either you'll have to go with a FASS, or change the cam, and Lift Pump.

You'll have a never ending Check engine light. Maybe pull the CE light?

I think the biggest problem to overcome is how to get the shut down solenoid to work properly.

I know it takes alot of work, and parts, I just don't know how to piece it together.

Good luck CCK!
Merrick
Old 01-16-2004, 10:37 AM
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Now please bear in mind that I have not done this, don't intend to, but was asking questions of someone that has done it.

He said, the early 98 PCM and harness hooks right up to the later models (second gen) and takes care of the electronics. Gotta remember that the PCM is changed along with the harness all the time on gas conversions, ie v6 to v8 and auto to manual. This would be junk yard parts and a lot of labor. Looks like strictly a "do it yourself" deal for any livable price. He is not using race pumps just the later higher horse power inline pumps.
Old 01-16-2004, 05:44 PM
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Thanks for the info Dixie, I,m going to check with a couple salvage yards tomarrow and see what i can come up with. If any one finds a 98 12v pcm or engine harness let me know if posible. I've almost got all the parts except the pcm and harness thanks to every ones help. Hopefully going together next week.
Old 01-16-2004, 05:46 PM
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Maybe you can find somebody that has a truck setup like your's but in a '98.4.

Just give the tech the Other guys VIN, and program your truck like that.

I know somebody who did that, but the trucks were exactly the same year (maybe month)

Merrick
Old 01-16-2004, 06:06 PM
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I really should not give second hand info, and this info was second hand. Do check it out with someone who has done it. The guy I discussed it with claimed to have done it three times and liked the switch. I am not doubting the information, but do check it.
Old 01-16-2004, 06:34 PM
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Thanks agian from every one Ill try to keep you all posted on how im coming along when i start on it this coming week.
Old 01-17-2004, 01:06 PM
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I KNOW EVRYONE WITH THE VP-44 HAS HAD TROUBLE AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER. CHRYSLER REPLACED MY FIRST ONE AT 99100 MILES. TALK ABOUT TIMING. THREE DAYS LATER, INSTALLED BLUECHIP BOX, & OUT THE DRIVEWAY & BANG. THAT BOX SMOKED THE VP-44. I CALLED MY DEALER BACK,TOWED IT BACK TO THEM. MY MECHANIC SAID THEY HAD PUT A REMANNED ONE ON, MUST HAVE BEEN A BAD ONE HE THOUGHT. LOL, I DIDN'T VOLUNTEER ANY INFO. THEY PUT ME A BRAND NEW ONE ON. IT LAST 23000 MILES & CRAPPED OUT ALONG WITH THE LP. I GOT MY LP & VP-44 STRAIGHT FROM CUMMINS. SINCE 123,000, I HAVE NOT HAD ANY TROUBLE. I NOW HAVE 213000 MILES ON IT. I AM ABOUT TO ADD THE BIGGER BANJOS & FUEL LINES, BECAUSE NEXT WEEK, I WILL BE ADDING SOME MORE FIRE UNDER THE HOOD. I JUST GOT MY SUNCOAST POWER LOC INSTALLED FRIDAY. IT WORKS GREAT. I JUST CAN'T SEE REPLACING NEW TECHNOLOGY WITH OLD. FOR THE MONEY YOU ARE GONNA SPEND, LOOK HOW MANY VP'S YOU COULD BUY.. IF THEY ARE GOING OUT THAT FAST, YOU HAVE GOT OTHER FUEL ISSSUES. I WILL ADMIT THAT I AM RUNNING THE RED FUEL IN MY TRUCK. SUPPOSEDLY IT HAS MORE SULPHUR IN IT WHICH HELPS WITH LUBING THE VP-44. GOOD LUCK ON YOU R CONVERSION.


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