2001 overheating blues
#16
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yes, dish powder. i doesn't foam up like soap.
yes, drain the old coolant but no need to get it all out. just drain the rad close the valve dump in powder top off with water and follow instructions.
oh!, and only use cascade! nothing else will do the job for some reason. don't ask me why.
yes, drain the old coolant but no need to get it all out. just drain the rad close the valve dump in powder top off with water and follow instructions.
oh!, and only use cascade! nothing else will do the job for some reason. don't ask me why.
#17
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Oregon
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Ok, thanks for the tip. I will give it a shot in the morningand see were that takes me. Also, my computer is pitching the overheating code. How can I clear that as I think its causing it to defuel.
#18
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Did you try using a cooling system cleaner and flushing it out with a garden hose? It sounds like you have a big restriction. Last thing you may have to do is pressure wash the inside of the rad.
#20
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Join Date: Aug 2006
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You can buy a kit to check for combustion gases in the radiator, or go to a shop and have them test the coolant for the same thing.
Sounds like some kinda of blockage also,-----no circulation, therefore the pump overides the capacity of the radiator cap, once it heats up it's going to vent somewhere, the weakest point being the radiator cap.
Exhaust/combustion gases will super heat it also
Hope you find it soon.
Sounds like some kinda of blockage also,-----no circulation, therefore the pump overides the capacity of the radiator cap, once it heats up it's going to vent somewhere, the weakest point being the radiator cap.
Exhaust/combustion gases will super heat it also
Hope you find it soon.
#21
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Ok, went and bought another thermostat (napa) 190 degree. It has a brass plug extending off the bottom I am assuming it plugs one of the water ports. While I had the stat out I completly filled the block up with coolant until it was spilling out the open radiator. put it all back together. Its still doing the same thing. It will go from 190 to pegging out the gauge in about 10 seconds and trip the check gauge light. Then it drops back down to 190 about 30 seconds later and settles there for awhile. I know it gets that hot as the cap blows all over. Im lost. Im ready to jerk the radiator out and try flushing the fins out somehow. And yes the stat is in the correct position. I have done no major repairs lately and the oil is within 500 miles of just changed. Its still not showing any moister in oil or exhaust.
#22
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I ran the truck with the old thermostat opened up with a screw to see if it would heat up. In a 35 mile drive the temp never showed a rise on the gauge. Im heading now to the dreaded grocery store to find DW soap. I will work on the sig thing when I get a few sorry, but for now any mods are in my profile. Thanks
#23
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I ran the truck with the old thermostat opened up with a screw to see if it would heat up. In a 35 mile drive the temp never showed a rise on the gauge. Im heading now to the dreaded grocery store to find DW soap. I will work on the sig thing when I get a few sorry, but for now any mods are in my profile. Thanks
#24
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Are you running 100% antifreeze? If so, this will overhead a motor and make the the temps go crazy. I did this once (stupid me), I drained half of the antifreeze out and topped it off with distilled water. You really need to use only distilled water. Normal tap water contains impurities and makes the water boil at 212 degrees, distilled water contains no impurities, which increases the boiling point. Also, tap water impurities creates buildup, scale, rust, buildup, and mechanical failure.
Run 50/50 mixture for coolant.
Run 50/50 mixture for coolant.
#25
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Ok, It seems that I have beaten this. I drained it dry and flushed it all out with clear water. Topped it up with water and added around a cup of the dishwasher soap. Let it idle with that stuff in it for an hour and drained it all out again. Then topped it up with water and added 2 quarts of preston rad flush and again let it idle for an hour. Drained it yet again and pulled the thermostat housing and hosed out the inside for about 2 minuts. Filled the block up with 2.5 gallons of anti freeze and another 2 gallons distilled water. Also added some Redline water wetter. That took care of the whole deal. The temp came up at a normal rate and just drifted around 180-195 during a 60 mile highway/ mountain road test drive. Before I couldnt even go a few miles without it boiling. So I have to assume that the fins inside were near plugged with who knows what. I would like to thank everybody for all the help and suggestions. Still wondering though, how long will my truck stay defueled from the overheat code? Thanks, Ray
#26
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I had a similar problem with my car in high school. leave the cap off and let it idle after it has warmed up. Does it regularly pull the anti-freeze level down and then spew it out the cap hole? I had a cracked head, the crack was small enough to let gases thru but not liquids. We checked the radiator for exhuast gases with a tester and sure enough the color changed. The oil never showed any signs of moisture intrusion. I hope this isn't your problem, but they must make a tester for diesels for this.
#27
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Sorry Ray, I didn't see you had fixed it. There is some interesting reading on using distilled water v. tap. Something about pure water leaching the minerals out of cast iron to stabilize with the oxygen present in the system. Do a search on distilled vs. tap water. Kurt
#28
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Hey, I am having trouble remembering where I read all that business about not using distilled, but after doing the search I just suggested, I can see that distilled water seems to be the choice at this site. Sorry if I wasted your time, Kurt
#29
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Dose it over heat while just idleing or only when you are driving? I have seen head gaskets blown but they can idle all day long but the second the engine builds boost it blows coolant out. But keeping pressure through the night????? I guess that could happen with a blown head gasket but thats weird.