Tate

You could get a 95 GPH 150 series, thats what I'm runnin on my dually. Overkill? For a stock truck, absolutely. But they are reliably, have good filter availability, and will give you room to grow in the future (we all know you will).

If you're not throwing any codes, its possible its just the lack of fuel pressure causing your issues. But VP's can go out at a drop of a hat, with no codes (mine did), so just keep some money saved up for when its time.

To ID your engine as an HO, look on the timing case, right by the VP. There will be a tag with various details on it. It will give you your HP rating, which should be a 245hp. It also has the engine serial number. Keep this handy, for when you talk to Cummins, give them that and they can pull up the parts you will need for you engine. I think the only HO specific parts for the engine is the injectors, pump and pistons. But SO parts work just as well. SO injectors are actually bigger than the HO, so they will give you a little boost in power. The HO pump has less fuel potential than an SO pump, but thats only an issue when going above 500 hp. Pistons have a smaller bowl, which is why the HO has a higher compression ratio.


Check out the AB section of the DTR chapters, there is quite a few of us on here.

nickg

Something to think about, as Tate said a VP can go out at anytime at any mileage. I honestly believe that yours is struggling because the VP is starving for fuel. correct that first. If your pulling no codes that should mean(fingers crossed) that the pump is not wore out mechanically...yet.
As for reliability who knows, I replaced my pump at 340,000kms and it was an orginal (according to the second owner, veh was owned by the same family) I bought the truck at 297,000kms. during the first 15,000kms I did a quick spot check of fuel pressure(temp gauge taped to the wiper arm) it looked good, later I installed an incab gauge, and found after about an hrs driving pressure would slowly decrease and at WOT it would drop to a pound or two, fast forward to 340,000kms. I replaced the perfectly good working, no codes pump with a Bosch certified rebuilt pump from Taber Diesel, I have no idea how long my truck had be run with weak/low pressure, but it was at least 15,000kms. and that pump worked just as good as the new one I put on. I replaced it because I too was worried about reliability, as sometimes I do out of town Hotshots and did not want to be stranded, I should have kept my core, so at least I would never be stranded, as I still had a good pump I could use. I dont think the pumps are so fragile that if its run for 2-3miles it will break because of low pressure, I think its more of combination of many factors, one of them being that alot of VP trucks are driven with no means of monitoring low pressure, not that is the end all be all, because even given a steady diet of 10psi the VP can still die from electronic or mechanical failure, and to be honest the mechanical failure is the better of the two, the electronic failure can happen to new pump just as easily as one with 400,000 on the clock. electrionics are just like a light bulb, they can fail at any time!

Unless your driving across canada tomorrow, I'd replace the LP with something better than the stock one. 250$+ for a stock failure prone pump, 120$ if your lucky to get a Cummins campain pump. Do Not install the intank version. for less money you can get an Airdog, I paid 600$ shipped to my door taxes/exchange/freight included. and it comes with lifetime warranty. I'd say put the money aside that you would need for a VP incase you do, and have a couple of contacts in your pocket incase you need a pump along the way. Hook up your new LP and drive the living crap outta the truck to see if it going to fail, pull the codes often to see if a 0216 should happen to pop up if it does replace the pump. heck after doing that you might even have gain some faith in it.

If your in Edmonton, and need your VP replaced, PM me and I'll help you/or do it for you.

wantedwolf

Cheers nick. The dreaded drive north, I dont know, you might have to pay me to put it in lol.
I really want to belive this VP44 will last... I dont know, but im going to bed .. I didnt work today but Im more tired then if I had.
I cant belive I sat in front of this dumb computer all day

Thanks for all the help guys.
Im learning alot. And really want to acomplish this myself

jentas

If your not going to hot rod the truck, I would (and did) get the Airdog 100. It is only about $500, has a liftetime warranty, is good for up to 500 rwhp, and the filters are readily available (I just ordered some fleetguard for $11 a piece). I've been running mine for a little over a year and somewhere around 20 k miles now, and I couldn't be happier with it.

For the gauge, you can get a liquid filled 0-30 psi mechanical gauge from Jegs pretty cheap, and then get all your fittings and fuel hose from Vulcan performance. Really no need to spend a ton of money on a fancy one with an isolator--even though people will tell you you must have an isolator for safety, they seem to be nothing but trouble--instead you can install a needle valve inline so that there is just a tiny trickle of fuel going to the gauge and will keep the gauge needle from bouncing too much and wearing out prematurely (and, yes, pulsations will still cause needle bounce with most liquid filled gauges, unless there is a snubber built in or you put a needle valve inline).

Hillcountry

I still think it is odd that it won't start well...it could be an LP issue, but I think I am confused...have you already replaced it or do you know it is bad? if your LP is bad, get a new one in there quick. Go with the framerail relocate and spend what you can. When you say it is hard to start...do you mean you have to crank it a lot to get it to go? Or does it run like it is really cold and it sputters?

In terms of taxing the engine...that was a fairly heavy load with trailer...and I am not surprised you had to pull out of 6th for a grade. These engines are powerful, but bogging the engine down on a grade is bad for your EGTs and probably other things.

Follow these guys advise and get a gauge. You are right 100 is too much...30 will do just fine.

wantedwolf

No I have yet to change LP. and knowing what I think I know now I let it go on way to long. Mostly without trailer, because after its started and warm it runs well until its loaded. And I loaded it only once that I noticed such power loss.

And yes it takes a long time for glow light to go off 30+sec. in doors, longer outside. when in the garage it starts after 4sec but outside below 0 it either starts after 2 or 3 cycles of 25sec starter cranks, Or doesnt start until it warms up.

Hillcountry

Oh...OK. That makes sense then. I understand. As soon as you get a chance...swap the LP. It is not a tough job...just a pain...especially when it is cold. IF you still have power issues after that (or starting issues) you can continue diagnosis. For some reason I thought you had already replaced the LP. I hope that solves your issues!

wantedwolf

Thanks Hill,
I am just concerned with the Vp44 going out at a bad time, even after I do the LP. Not to worried with the LP install.

I would have a tough time beliving its on its first Inj pump at 345,000 km
but there is a "warenty seal" that is "preventing" removal of harness.
I dont remember what it says exactly.

I hope to get a chance to read the forums tonight, but any thoughts on if the Bluechip rebuilt VP44's are worth the extra$. (about $400)
OR is it standard to install a new computer on bosch rebuilds?

Hillcountry

It could be the first IP. My aunt has had hers last over 250,000 mi. So it can happen. The warranty seal seems like a good indicator that it may be original. I don't know which pumps are the best. I am researching also since I, like you, don't want to be stranded at a bad time. Good luck!

wantedwolf

Lets pretend the original IP failed and the previous owner, brought it to Dodge for replacement. I assume they would warrenty their install apx 1yr

Would dodge have put a warrenty seal on the replacement pump after it was put in?

wantedwolf

Well I finally ordered everything.

A rebuilt VP44 from Taber diesel and Fass 150/95 transfer pump kit ($2156)
(should arive thurs. still comes from midwest but less $ and hassels)

fuel pressure + restrictor, boost, pyro, tranny (autometer phantom gauges)

Also going to do puke bottle relocate and clean the rad (H.S. what a mess)

wantedwolf

Well first, thanks again to DTR for all its help.

The truck is up and running with no leaks, I havent worked out mpg #'s but i think they will be good. It sounds really smooth but grumbles at the first start of the day.

I ended up ditching taber diesel, They didnt return 4 of 6 phone calls. And didnt really seem to interested in making a sale. I did order a VP and FASS from them, it was to arrive on the thursday but it was late and, would be here on tuesday, well tuesday came and I guess it was the only thing taber had at the border and it wasnt worth his trip. So I was told it would be on thursday. ( a week later then first quoted). And I have to mention that they were quite rude to my wife. So I ordered from Fisher Performance Diesel in Lethbridge AB. They were easy to deal with and I had it in 3 days. (By the weekend).

Im not sure the mount is in the best place visually but the gauges are in (but the Boost is not hooked up). I took the lazy route and installed the tranny temp sensor in the fill/drain plug so I dont get a good reading. I might overfill the tranny on a hill, just to make do for the move. Scangauge should be here tomorrow.

The Fuel pressure gauge went well, its Tee'd off to the BD early warning light and mounted on the fender with 18" grease gun hose.

I droped and cleaned the gas tank only to break the stupid mesh filter inside. Dodge wanted $675.00 for the whole canister and float (Removable filter but its a non servicable part ) so I fixed it as best I could.

The Pyro went in pre turbo and is very nice to have. Drilling the hole in the manifold was easy. but tapping it is where the metal mess happens. It is impossible to keep the crap out while tapping, grease or not. So I had a vacuum with 3/8 tubing taped to it, running for the whole process. Then spent a good 20mins fishing with a pen magnet.

The rad was a huge oily mess and having it out made the VP R+R much more pleasent. I used an engine gun and degreaser then air then a garden hose to clean it. Then re-located the puke bottle. 10" of 1" pvc and 1 gear clamp puts the bottle at steering gear level, I zip tied it to a steering hose. The pvc fit in my bottle perfect with its lid off, then i pvc glued the original hose inside.

Heres a few pics.

wantedwolf

And the gauge mount.