1998 1/2 engine blown
#1
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1998 1/2 engine blown
OK, I recently pressure washed my engine to find a oil leak. When I started it back up, It made a hell of a noise. When I shut it off I had antifreeze coming out the back of the head. Tore it down and took the head to a machine shop, and they told me I had 6 cracks in the head. I also noted that the intake gasket was bad. Maybe I hydrauliced the motor? Well now the motor won't bar over at all. I took the front cover off and found no problems there. The motor is still in the truck, and I guess I need a new long block. Any suggestions on maybe an upgraded motor? What will fit without a lot of trouble? The transmission is a 5 speed manual. The engine is a 24 valve.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
#2
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When you say the engine won't "bar over" I'm guessing you mean you can't move the crankshaft with a breaker bar...Before you spend a lot of money I suggest you check to make sure the starter drive is not jammed into the flywheel teeth which would prevent the crank from moving...I once had a car towed to me for a new engine, when all it needed was a starter rebuild......Ben
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#4
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Maybe something in the transmission that blocks the engine from being able to be turned over?
This is really curious, I had a 24V that got sunk in a river at WOT (excavator driver not really qualified) and the engine could be barred over with 5 bent conrods, and one having made a window to see the world. (After removing the water from the cylinders by removing the injectors)
Oh, and with the front cover off I'd look into any other component binding by watching the gears while trying to wiggle the crankshaft in it's rotation.
This is really curious, I had a 24V that got sunk in a river at WOT (excavator driver not really qualified) and the engine could be barred over with 5 bent conrods, and one having made a window to see the world. (After removing the water from the cylinders by removing the injectors)
Oh, and with the front cover off I'd look into any other component binding by watching the gears while trying to wiggle the crankshaft in it's rotation.
#6
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Since you have the had off you can also try a little tap with a block of wood on one piston that's not at a dead cut.
You will find out if you can rock the crank just a little or not.
Did you look at the exposed cylinder walls? Maybe take some pictures.
You will find out if you can rock the crank just a little or not.
Did you look at the exposed cylinder walls? Maybe take some pictures.
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#8
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Depending on where you are, and what you need, let me know. I have complete, ready to run 24V motor options along with most any other 2nd gen Cummins part in my shop.
Heck I am pulling another 24V this week from a truck I drove into the shop last Sun.
Heck I am pulling another 24V this week from a truck I drove into the shop last Sun.
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Thanks for the offer on the parts. I'm in northern Arizona. I'll try tapping one of the pistons. I'll probably just pull the engine and find out what happened.
#10
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I'd just try to do a proper diagnosis before pulling the engine.
(I have pulled an engine and had it all torn down to find that I had missed a croaked vacuum pump... - live and learn)
(I have pulled an engine and had it all torn down to find that I had missed a croaked vacuum pump... - live and learn)
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OK, So just got back from an elk hunt in Idaho. Took the injector drive gear off thinking it was locked up and preventing the engine from turning over, it turns perfect. So can I remove the pan while the engine is still mounted in the engine bay? How do I remove the gear on the end of the crank ?
#12
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You can't remove the gear from the crank with the engine installed. (At least not without the risk of bad damage)
Removing the oil pan is no problem, just unbolt all the bolts, drop oilpan as far as it goes, remove oil suction tube, let drop into oil pan and pull pan out.
Installation is tricky because you need to get the pan partways in, lift the tube and mount it and all that without damaging your bead of RTV on the oil pan..
Removing the oil pan is no problem, just unbolt all the bolts, drop oilpan as far as it goes, remove oil suction tube, let drop into oil pan and pull pan out.
Installation is tricky because you need to get the pan partways in, lift the tube and mount it and all that without damaging your bead of RTV on the oil pan..
#14
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Yep, it can be removed, but it is a destructive removal.
With the front cover off, just try to rotate the crank as far as it'll go and watch the gears. If the crank moves just a little bit you'll see relative movement of the gears. Release any torque on the crankshaft and try to rotate the suspect gear. If you find it stuck remove it, if not check the next one.
If the crank does not move the tiniest amount pull the engine. Much less work than trying it in frame and finding that you need to pull it for the work.
(Or call Oliver for a used engine, you'll still need to pull that bugger)
With the front cover off, just try to rotate the crank as far as it'll go and watch the gears. If the crank moves just a little bit you'll see relative movement of the gears. Release any torque on the crankshaft and try to rotate the suspect gear. If you find it stuck remove it, if not check the next one.
If the crank does not move the tiniest amount pull the engine. Much less work than trying it in frame and finding that you need to pull it for the work.
(Or call Oliver for a used engine, you'll still need to pull that bugger)
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Thanks for your reply. After further research, My KDP is not there. Looks like I need to pull the engine? Is there a special tool to remove the cam gear?