travelingman

I took a trip last week Arkansas it was hot out but even on the interstate the engine fan would stay locked in an pull the engine temp way down. I know thats its function but it just did not seem to kick in an out when it got the temp down. I bought a new one at Orileys it acted better for a while then done the same. Any time I checked it hood up normal temp it felt ingauged. Is this normal ? Also when idleing with A/C on the truck dozen't continue too cool but running down the road cools great what say you ?

rebal

not cooling at a light is a bad fan clutch not pulling air at low speed , I have install quit a few after market fan clutches and most dont work nearly as good as the MOPAR oem.

Busboy

I too would say it's your clutch fan not drawing air at idle but if you say that on the hiway the fan stays locked in and pulls the engine temp down then perhaps there's another reason. If the fan is locked in yet the rad is cool then either the fan clutch is no good or there is heat coming from somewhere else. When a fan clutch goes they either don't engage or they are locked in when locked in they don't free up at idle. I'm thinking your AC is overcharged and on the hiway your speed removes the heat from the condenser so the AC works but also pushes the heat onto the fan clutch causing it to lock up and bring the engine coolant temp down. You can check the fan clutch with the engine shut off and cool it should turn but have some resistance, if it wont turn then it's seized up and needs replacing.

travelingman

I bought the new clutch at O Rileys an like I said it acted different when first instaled . I changed it while on this trip I spoke of . Then it started acting like the old one it does not lock up when the engine is cold but feels about the same as it does when I raise the hood an check it hot. At times it will settle down while driveing an the temp will run 190 it has a recently installed themostat as well. But if it kicks in when temp rises above 190 it won,t give up when it gets the temp down for a long time . But you may be right it might be A/C related or I might need too wash out my radiator fins. The compressor an dryer are not that old an we put in what it called for on the spec card under the hood an put in the correct amout of oil. ,but maybe we need to double check ourselfs. One thing I've wondered about is the vacum doors under the dash as well can't the dealer plug in an check those ? But it has been exstremly hot I just like a motor to stay fairly within the range of the thermostat an not big swings.

Tedonlin150

Make sure your condenser is clean. A blocked condenser could cause this too.

travelingman

I appreciate the good ideals I thought of one other thing i've noticed on my poor cooling A/C at idle. When I shut it off after a fue minutes there will be a good bit of water come out as if it had frozen up . What would that be caused by ?

travelingman

What would be something good too use to break the oil film loose an clean the radiator an condensor fins ?

Busboy

The first thing I would do is put a proper set of AC gauges on the truck and see exactly what your AC is doing, I'm suspecting it is either over charged or you have a partial blockage possibly in the fixed orifice tube, the gauges will show this. Your rad IS probably dirty but if it will take down the engine coolant temp too low then it's not that dirty. The oil from the puke bottle is usually contained by the rad and does not contaminate the condenser. The condenser fins should be clean and straight. If they are bent from using a pressure washer they can be straightened with a cheap simple tool designed for the job. You should not have a bug screen or winter front directly up against the condenser either. Most people remove the rad for cleaning but it is possible to reach down between the rad and the inter cooler with an engine wash wand and using compressed air and a mild degreaser to clean out the rad fins then spray with water.