'00 4x4 stalling when stopping, after removing gasoline
#1
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'00 4x4 stalling when stopping, after removing gasoline
first off, my buddy loaned his truck out and they put 5 gallons of gasoline in a low level of fuel tank, i helped get the fuel removed, threw 10 gallons of fresh diesel in it, removed and cleaned filter housing, cycled pump while bleeding hp pump, then cranked to remove anything remaining in line to injectors, so now only at normal operating temp, when your slowing to stop, engine staggers and stalls, i can hit pedal and get through stop and proceed, but now i see even when sitting still, just hitting brake with no load still wants to stagger, i checked the fuel from filter lower bleeder valve and fuel looks good, there are no codes, and engine runs fine otherwise, when warming up no symptoms, so anyone have thoughts on fuel contamination with the vp44? thanks!
#2
Registered User
If you don't get below freezing temps I'd try adding a little bit of 2 stroke oil into the fuel. A ratio of about 1:800 should do it.
Either you have still have some contaminated stuff in there or there is already some damage.
The 2 stroke oil will alleviate the low lubricity of gasoline if there still is some contamination.
If there is some damage already the small price of some 2 stroke oil will not break the bank.
Either you have still have some contaminated stuff in there or there is already some damage.
The 2 stroke oil will alleviate the low lubricity of gasoline if there still is some contamination.
If there is some damage already the small price of some 2 stroke oil will not break the bank.
#3
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Thread Starter
what i see from filter housing is pure diesel, of course we hope pump is not compromised, it quit quickly after contamination, but altitude is freeze worthy here, its been driven 20 miles through very hilly conditions, just have to cover accel pedal when slowing to prevent stall, maybe new pump is in its future, thanks.
#4
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replaced hp pump and idle is restored, before all prior fuel contamination, we thought it wasent getting peak power, replaced fuel filter same, checked valves, intakes a little tight, good boost pressure at 25psi, fuel pressure at idle 15psi, and again no codes.
#6
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Thread Starter
pump replaced and engine idle back to normal, dosent have full power potential, we think this was the case before fuel contamination problem
#7
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If you don't have a chip or a reprogrammed ECM (Smarty etc) the truck will start to defuel above 21 psi, so maybe your wastegate opens too late and reduces your power output.
This does not necessarily set an overboost code.
This does not necessarily set an overboost code.
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#8
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think i just found problem, oring where wastegate enters turbo halfway blown out, just researching what your saying, looking at scanner idling it shows 12psi boost pressure, i remember someone saying ambient air pressure at sensor before boost, think theres loss at wastegate
#9
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Thread Starter
this hy35 wastegate actuator has a oring that blew out of compressor mount, didnt look like it came loose, just over time forced itself out, it made a little better power with it in place
#11
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The sensor you read out is MAP, manifold absolute pressure. So, engine stopped at sea level around 14.5 psi, at idle a little less due to the restriction of air filter, turbo plumbing etc.
A boost gauge shows the difference between MAP and outside air, your ECM defuels at about 37 psi MAP and does not set a code unless MAP can't be kept in check by defueling.
It looks like the cover of your wastegate actuator rotated, you can sometimes rotate it back with a filter wrench band, then dimple the v-band with a center punch. (But only if you like to do Yoga)
A boost gauge shows the difference between MAP and outside air, your ECM defuels at about 37 psi MAP and does not set a code unless MAP can't be kept in check by defueling.
It looks like the cover of your wastegate actuator rotated, you can sometimes rotate it back with a filter wrench band, then dimple the v-band with a center punch. (But only if you like to do Yoga)
#12
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Thread Starter
looking at map engine off, reading 12psi is elevation reduction where im at 4000 ft, so if i see 28psi, subtract to get 16? is that how im supposed to get real boost figure
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#13
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If you have a mechanical boost gauge you will need to add the atmospheric pressure to the boost reading to get MAP.
If you just read MAP from the sensor you need to subtract atmospheric pressure from the reading to get boost.
You got that right.
If you just read MAP from the sensor you need to subtract atmospheric pressure from the reading to get boost.
You got that right.
#14
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Thread Starter
hes got a tri a-piller gauge holder, just fuel pressure in it, stock, but gauges to me always help immediately refine a problem, got to push him to complete the boost and puro, thanks ar and other posters, im taking a scanner drive to see where boost numbers are at.
#15
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Thread Starter
just scratching 30lbs, but spunkier on launch from stop, still feels like it should have more, my modded first gen hits pretty good, not the same by comparison, wait for neighbor to get up, see how he likes it, works late